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MOD, could you please let us know if this idea is doable and can it be a sticky? TIA
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You need to add a few more including:
"What color to paint my caliper?" "Can you use Home Depot Behr interior paint to paint interior Porsche parts?" etc... But in all honesty, that would be a great idea and a way to reduce the clutter some of us guys been seeing over and over again on here. |
I think a Google doc would probably be easy enough to use. I'm not at home. I will post what I had started working on when I get there. Or just use this thread to have people propose content and then edit the first post to include worthwhile contributions. To be useful it will need to have the information in the first post where it can be found right away. If the perfect post on a topic is post #56 in the thread it might as well be on page 17 of the forum.
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LOL, I think all topics are welcome as long as there are interests. I also want this to be a collaboration so people can suggest new contents/links and get involved.
BTW, I think adding quality links will be the starting point. If people want to write about a specific topic, that can be added to the list as well. |
Originally Posted by DTMiller
(Post 11281139)
I think a Google doc would probably be easy enough to use. I'm not at home. I will post what I had started working on when I get there. Or just use this thread to have people propose content and then edit the first post to include worthwhile contributions. To be useful it will need to have the information in the first post where it can be found right away. If the perfect post on a topic is post #56 in the thread it might as well be on page 17 of the forum.
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I'm in. Great idea!
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Originally Posted by Gator996
(Post 11281360)
I'm in. Great idea!
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Here's a link to my post regarding relocating the engine cover release cable.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...e-measure.html |
Originally Posted by Cuda911
(Post 11281434)
Here's a link to my post regarding relocating the engine cover release cable.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...e-measure.html |
Two good sources for DIY technical articles are Renntech and Pelican Parts. Another site I use quite often is the parts diagrams at Auto Atlanta. Really invaluable for looking at how everything goes together along with all the original Porsche part numbers. A while back someone posted the link for the Porsche technical manuals in pdf format and I downloaded all those.
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Originally Posted by DBJoe996
(Post 11281504)
Two good sources for DIY technical articles are Renntech and Pelican Parts. Another site I use quite often is the parts diagrams at Auto Atlanta. Really invaluable for looking at how everything goes together along with all the original Porsche part numbers. A while back someone posted the link for the Porsche technical manuals in pdf format and I downloaded all those.
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At the risk of being imperial, I don't think a general referral elsewhere answer a specific question which is what I think should be the goal of this sort of thread. I do think a link to a pelican parts page on removing the rear mufflers is useful in connection with a discussion of a related topic lime changing plugs.
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Was thinking the same, DT. Lets keep this thread to SPECIFIC items. Specific questions that are common for 996's, and specific answers or direct links to the answers.
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Ok, let me structure it differently. To me, it's a fair newbie question to ask "Where to buy parts?" Or even that you guys think are too general?
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^^^ Fair enough question.
For new parts, I highly recommend TC's Garage. It is owned by Tom and Bev Gould. They are both very active in PCA, and Bev is our former San Diego Region PCA President. Every time I have ordered parts, Tom matches or beats any other price I can find, including internet-only prices at other places. Here's a link to their site. http://www.tcsgarage.com/ |
Here's what I came up with through the first 8 pages of the 996 forum at the time, which was February 12th at 2:07 a.m. (I was truly sleepless in central PA). Some of these might not be worth anything, but I felt at the time that these were fairly common questions and pretty good responses.
I don't pretend to have independent expertise. Roughly 99.9% of what I do know I learned from this board. That's why I started compiling this, as some way of trying to give back to the forum. So, if some of these links are facepalmingly worthless I won't be offended if they are omitted. Buyer’s Guides https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...diligence.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...he-dealer.html Oh No, White smoke at startup! https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-start-up.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...st-thread.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...questions.html Radio Issues https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...installed.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...s-in-here.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...o-install.html Lights https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...did-searc.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ns-please.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...eadlights.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...aillights.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...aillights.html Motor Mounts https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ns-needed.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...dorsement.html Suspension https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-or-sways.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ein-b6-b8.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...eplacment.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...nsion-kit.html Trunk/Frunk Release Cable https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...e-measure.html TFIWWP (This FAQ Is Worthless Without Pics) https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...s-of-them.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...s-in-here.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...snow-pics.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-install.html’ Exhaust https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...e-install.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...placement.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...dyno-pics.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...er-delete.html Coolant & Coolant Tank https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...k-leaking.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...t-leaking.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...olant-why.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...level-and.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...w-airlift.html Water Pump https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-or-metal.html |
Excellent and thanks for sharing! I'll incoporate them into my first post.
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I really like the direction and intent for this document/thread. This can pull the gang together on common issue.
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I too like the idea of this document/thread. I think the idea of focusing on "what is wrong with my car?", and then "how do I fix it?" is a good one. I was suggesting the other sites (RennTech and Pelican) for technical articles related to "how do I fix it?". Besides the good ones listed I would add one for the common repeat questions of (all I can think to add at this point):
Key fobs not working Key electrical switch replacement Window regulators (window drop, etc.) Battery replacement Drain cleaning Radiator cleaning |
Thanks guys for the support! I would need you help to build up the content for sure. How about I put the list in Google doc so anyone can pitch in the content?
The info can be as simple as a few quality links like DTMiller sent out above or it can be as detailed as an article if you feel passionate about the topic. Just put your SIG after the info you provide to get credit. If this plan works, we could end up with a Bible of "How to Fix Your Porsche 996" and the best part is it's evolving as people discover more new issues/fixes/features, etc. :) What do you say? :rockon: |
Great list, DT!
I think the following video is good for this thread. How to remove the front bumper cover to clean out the radiators, etc.: . |
Originally Posted by Ahsai
(Post 11281127)
MOD, could you please let us know if this idea is doable and can it be a sticky? TIA
Thanks! Marc |
Originally Posted by Marc Gelefsky
(Post 11284852)
Can make it a sticky no problem, lets fill it with facts and info and keep the conversations to a minimum.
Thanks! Marc |
Originally Posted by Marc Gelefsky
(Post 11284852)
lets fill it with facts and info
Pretty comprehensive SSK install instructions: http://www.bmracing.com/bmnew/pdf/45135.pdf |
Some posts consolidated regarding the alarm:
Q: Who was the genius that designed the 996 alarm with no audible confirmation of arming, disarming? It is annoying. I thought I read somewhere you can do something with the console switch so that the car thinks it is open which will then give you a honk. Anyone do this? advantages, disadvantages? Some answers: (thanks to many for these answers... too much of a PITA to cite the proper member credits) 1. There is no way to set the horn to activate when locking the car (no dealer programmable option either). An audible sound indicates one of the sensors is open. Hit the button twice quick you also get an audible alert, but it deactivates the IR sensor inside the cabin. 2. If you leave your center console unlatched the car will honk when you use remote to lock it. 3. If you partially remove the center console and disconnect the wire that connects to the latch mechanism for the lid, it will make the car honk when you lock it. 4. On my '04 C2 when I lock it the lights blink twice. If I hold the key button down longer it will honk. Nice to have the option. 5. Pressing the button a second time gives you a honk, and disables the interior motion sensor alarms (in case someone is in the car or something). Holding it down probably does the same thing? I use this feature when I put sun shades in my car when it's parked. Sometimes they will shift and set off the alarm. 6. As it's been said in several permutations, if it honks when you arm the alarm, there's a non-critical circuit open (like the center console). If a critical circuit is open (like a door or the hood), the alarm won't arm. |
How about adding the malfunctioning sunroof threads. I don't think anyone has solved the problem, but that in itself is useful information.
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Originally Posted by Cuda911
(Post 11292509)
Some posts consolidated regarding the alarm:
Q: Who was the genius that designed the 996 alarm with no audible confirmation of arming, disarming? It is annoying. I thought I read somewhere you can do something with the console switch so that the car thinks it is open which will then give you a honk. Anyone do this? advantages, disadvantages? Some answers: (thanks to many for these answers... too much of a PITA to cite the proper member credits) 1. There is no way to set the horn to activate when locking the car (no dealer programmable option either). An audible sound indicates one of the sensors is open. Hit the button twice quick you also get an audible alert, but it deactivates the IR sensor inside the cabin. 2. If you leave your center console unlatched the car will honk when you use remote to lock it. 3. If you partially remove the center console and disconnect the wire that connects to the latch mechanism for the lid, it will make the car honk when you lock it. 4. On my '04 C2 when I lock it the lights blink twice. If I hold the key button down longer it will honk. Nice to have the option. 5. Pressing the button a second time gives you a honk, and disables the interior motion sensor alarms (in case someone is in the car or something). Holding it down probably does the same thing? I use this feature when I put sun shades in my car when it's parked. Sometimes they will shift and set off the alarm. 6. As it's been said in several permutations, if it honks when you arm the alarm, there's a non-critical circuit open (like the center console). If a critical circuit is open (like a door or the hood), the alarm won't arm. |
Originally Posted by jasper
(Post 11293042)
How about adding the malfunctioning sunroof threads. I don't think anyone has solved the problem, but that in itself is useful information.
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Sometimes my sunroof seems to get Alzheimer's or something, and forgets how to properly operate. If you hold the button in for awhile, it seems to reset itself.
Here's a more detailed reset sequence you can try: Teaching lifting/sliding roof drive: 1. With the ignition switched on, press the lift button and move the lifting/sliding roof drive to the "raised" limit position. 2. Press lift button again and keep depressed. After around 10 seconds, a complete cycle takes place from the raised limit position to the positions "lower open close". Teaching of the characteristics has been completed after this process. Note: The lift button must not be released during the entire process. In the event of a restart, the lifting/sliding roof must always be moved to the limit position first. 3. If the lifting/sliding roof drive should move back in Item 1, then the closing force limitation function has responded (lifting/sliding force drive was taught). The open button must be re−taught in this case. Teaching lifting/sliding roof drive 1 Press the open button until the sliding roof stops. Then release the button. Press the open button again until the lifting/sliding roof drive stops again. Then release the button. 2 Press the open button again and keep depressed. The entire process takes place after approx. 10 seconds: "close − lift − lower − open − close.". Source: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...some-help.html |
On the sunroof issue, when all else fails there is a mechanical way to close the sunroof by removing the overhead cabin light panel and manually turning the motor drive. Carefully remove the two covers of the infrared passenger compartment monitoring system (the two black eyes), unscrew the two screws, fold down the cover of the lifting/sliding roof drive. There will be an allen key in a holder attached to the inside of the cover (Porsche thinks of everything) that you insert into the drive axle (overhead behind the panel), turn it clockwise and the sliding roof will close.
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Below are some possible additions for the list.
Below are some suggested links for the Master Link list: Changing the Belt: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...-polyrib-belt/ Changing the Oil: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...-instructions/ Convertible Top Issues: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefo...andrcenternuts http://www.welton-village.org.uk/porschesofttopp.pdf http://images.wikia.com/boxster/imag...Canvas_R_R.pdf https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...t-a-997-a.html Hitch: http://www.willwoodsystem.com/ Horn: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-problems.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...orns-pics.html Radar: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...r-dummies.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...rt-9500ix.html https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...tallation.html Water Leak: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...o-cabin-2.html http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...cowl-info.html http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...43#entry181443 More to come! |
More:
Spoiler: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...r-spoiler.html http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutor...-rear-spoiler/ Cup Holders: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...CUP_HOLDER.pdf http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:292359 Cruise Control: https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...l-failure.html http://workshop-manuals.com/porsche/...ce_and_repair/ Center Console: http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...also-pics.html Radiator Protection (Mesh): https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...protector.html |
Engine Ground Strap
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...trap-location/ Sun Visor https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...r-lid-fix.html Relocating Heat/AC Controls https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ke-it-out.html |
Thanks sjg1138! I've added your links, re-org the list a bit and also added acknowledgement to the contributors!
Keep them coming, guys! |
Sure Ahsai. frisbee91 just did a great write up for a Convertible Top / Clamshell issue here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...more-pics.html |
Ahsai, for some reason the link under Center Console to 6speed is broken in your Master List. it works fine in my post.
Actually a bunch of the links are broken. Maybe they somehow were messed up in a cut and paste? |
Originally Posted by sjg1138
(Post 11332194)
Ahsai, for some reason the link under Center Console to 6speed is broken in your Master List. it works fine in my post.
Actually a bunch of the links are broken. Maybe they somehow were messed up in a cut and paste? I had to dig up the full form of each of your original link to copy them one by one. Gotta be a better way... |
A couple coolant leak posts I figured would be good in this archive thread:
Quote: Originally Posted by dgjks6 View Post Quick question. Smelled coolant. Looked at tank and there was coolant on the top of the tank in the crevices. Looked at cap and it was the original. I already purchased the upgraded one but never got around to putting it on. Waited a couple hours and removed the cap. Still under pressure and coolant sprayed everywhere. Changed cap. A week later and 300 miles and still smell coolant Ahsai:You may have a small leak developed on the tank itself where coolant dropped onto the hot muffler, gets burned off and disappear. Try to look around the top of the muffler and bottom of tank (use inspection mirror) for dried coolant stain. The proper way to test for coolant leak is to use a pressure tester (Stant) to pressurize the system from the reservoir on a cold engine at about 18 PSI for about 20min and then trace for coolant leak/drops on the floor. Macster: If you do not thoroughly rinse the coolant off the engine the smell can linger for a long time. There may be a leak, though. You can have the system pressure tested. Or you can do this yourself. Be sure the cold coolant level is ok. Be sure the cap is clean and where it screws on clean and properly installed. Drive the car around town with the A/C off until the engine is up to temperature and has been some time. Back at home raise RPMs to say 1K to 1500. Hold until your or a helper detects the radiator fans coming on. Shut off the engine. Let the car sit. The heat load of the hot engine will raise the coolant temperature and pressure. If there is a leak you'll likely spot it from the coolant dripping (or in the case of my Boxster when I did this) gushing out of a split in the coolant tank or leaking from some other location. Ideally you would want the car in the air so the water pump area can be carefully inspected. But you can check this cold as if the water pump is leaking the chances are high there is unambiguous sign of the leaking. Anti-freeze stain. Even (as was the case of my Turbo's water pump) a build up of green anti-freeze residue between the pump housing and the pulley. Give the radiator ducts a good sniff test for any anti-freeze odor. The odds are very high if there is a leak this test will turn it up. |
This thread hasn't had a bump in awhile so here goes! Since we are under Tropical Storm Watch today, I took a "rain day" and replaced my Oil Filler Tube. It had split apart in two places in the corrugated section. I patched it up with duct tape and zip ties until I could get the new filler tube parts and o-rings in. Fairly simple job, remove air box, TB, belt, alternator, there it was! So add that one to the list...many years, miles and heat cycles and that plastic piece literally fell apart in my hands. P-car is smiling and singing with that one fixed.
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The horn sounds when there's a fault. For a critical fault, as Cuda911 mentioned, the horn sounds, but the system does not arm when in this fault condition...so you definitely want to arm it again after you close the door or frunk.
Originally Posted by Ahsai
(Post 11293054)
Thanks Cuda911. Looks good. Are we sure 6 is accurate? I seem to remember my car honks if my hood or door is open when I arm it.
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Gotcha. Thanks.
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This is a great DIY for better sound at low cost
Speaker Upgrade http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...-speakers.html |
Replacement oxygen sensors that cost $130 and up @ the dealership, can be identified using the Bosch part finder and purchased on Amazon for $60 to $70.
http://www.boschautoparts.com/vehicl...artfinder.aspx Using this tool, you can find the part numbers for oxygen sensors, starters, coil packs, MAF sensor, etc. Amazon isn't ALWAYS the cheapest place to find Bosch hardware - but in addition to good pricing, Amazon can get stuff to you next-day if you're in a bind. |
I was sitting in the garage yesterday and had a curious thought process. Being of a mechanical/environmental engineering background I was thinking about part life cycles, i.e., we often measure our cars and determine what needs to be done using mileage. But there are other factors - for instance: my Durametric software will tell me how many hours the engine has run which is just as important as how many miles the car has gone. As far as life cycles, any mechanical component has a finite life cycle, such as an ignition switch. I pulled out the calculator and figured on a guess that if I use the ignition switch 4 times a day, 312 days per year (6 days a week), for 15 years (I have a daily driver 99 C2), then it has cycled 18,720 times. How many cycles does it take to kill an ignition switch?
I was wondering if it would be a good idea in the list to begin to amass some history for our older cars to determine when some components are replaced based upon hours of engine running vs. mileage (like for an AOS or MAF replacement), and estimates of life cycle usage, i.e., my ignition switch example, or a window regulator, or a starter. As our cars age like mine, 15 years, I think component life cycle becomes as critical a factor as mileage. Mileage can apply for most of the running gear components (brakes, tires, suspension, etc.) but most of the other stuff we replace/fix has more to do with how many times it has been cycled. For instance - I had to replace the starter at about 12 years old. Based upon my example above (4 starts per day, 312 days per year for 12 years), that would have been about 14,976 starter cycles. Mine is a daily driver. Then we can surmise that regardless of mileage, one can expect about 15,000 starting life cycles before the starter needs replacement. As our cars age and we replace common parts/fixes/issues that we all have posted about, does it make sense to include this factor? I think it does. |
Originally Posted by DBJoe996
(Post 11652778)
I was sitting in the garage yesterday and had a curious thought process. Being of a mechanical/environmental engineering background I was thinking about part life cycles, i.e., we often measure our cars and determine what needs to be done using mileage. But there are other factors - for instance: my Durametric software will tell me how many hours the engine has run which is just as important as how many miles the car has gone. As far as life cycles, any mechanical component has a finite life cycle, such as an ignition switch. I pulled out the calculator and figured on a guess that if I use the ignition switch 4 times a day, 312 days per year (6 days a week), for 15 years (I have a daily driver 99 C2), then it has cycled 18,720 times. How many cycles does it take to kill an ignition switch?
I was wondering if it would be a good idea in the list to begin to amass some history for our older cars to determine when some components are replaced based upon hours of engine running vs. mileage (like for an AOS or MAF replacement), and estimates of life cycle usage, i.e., my ignition switch example, or a window regulator, or a starter. As our cars age like mine, 15 years, I think component life cycle becomes as critical a factor as mileage. Mileage can apply for most of the running gear components (brakes, tires, suspension, etc.) but most of the other stuff we replace/fix has more to do with how many times it has been cycled. For instance - I had to replace the starter at about 12 years old. Based upon my example above (4 starts per day, 312 days per year for 12 years), that would have been about 14,976 starter cycles. Mine is a daily driver. Then we can surmise that regardless of mileage, one can expect about 15,000 starting life cycles before the starter needs replacement. As our cars age and we replace common parts/fixes/issues that we all have posted about, does it make sense to include this factor? I think it does. |
Originally Posted by 911 carrera blue
(Post 11657591)
If that is your thought process try to explain this to me a 2003 garage queen which had an average of 29.5 miles driven per month the last 11 1/2 years and 1000 every month for the past 2 months got the ignition switch just replaced :confused:
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Since this is sort of a "HELP I got this and that" thread I was wondering maybe someone could give me an answer or maybe there is a DIY thread on this
if I want to go from this: http://www.macarbon.com/bak/componen...f5b3b0595b.jpg to this: http://www.macarbon.com/bak/componen...69c89f333c.jpg concerning the CUPHOLDERS what parts do I need? is it enough with the sliding cupholders and corresponding air vents or there is something more to it? (in my car I have no cupholders at all) since I really dig the facelift cupholders I want to install them, and since I couldn't find any DIY thread nor here nor in google, I could then post a thread myself of installing them also while at it: if I want to upgrade to oem facelift satnav, what is recquired? is it enough with the screen/buttons (yeah I know it is probably crappy but I really am the OEM equipment fan) In my case there is this satnav installed: http://www.carchip.de/showroom/porsc...terieur_03.jpg thanks |
Starter Cable replacement
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum...ter-cable.html http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...tage-problems/ It wouldn't let me edit my original post so I just put it here. Maybe we should make this a google shared document so anyone interested can contribute/edit? |
Can the Admin somehow give Ahsai permission to edit the first post of this thread?
Admin, are you listening? Not sure how to contact the Admin. |
Parfitt
Originally Posted by Gator996
(Post 11281360)
I'm in. Great idea!
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
(Post 11281150)
LOL, I think all topics are welcome as long as there are interests. I also want this to be a collaboration so people can suggest new contents/links and get involved.
BTW, I think adding quality links will be the starting point. If people want to write about a specific topic, that can be added to the list as well. |
Originally Posted by jdjones2010
(Post 12230649)
I just wanted to add Ahsai that this has to be one of the Most Helpful Posts Ever made on here & it pretty much covers Anything & Everything you could or would want to do to your Porsche! :) THANK YOU!
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OK. So this ought to be interesting if it works. I took the first page of this thread and put it in a Google doc which can be found here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...it?usp=sharing
Anyone (in the world) should be able to view the doc. I also gave permissions to Ahsai to modify the doc. This way we can have a running list of good threads related to fixes etc. |
Check out HERE for the most recent FAQ/Fixes list.
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Thanks for doing this, Steve! I'll check it out later tonight.
Your second link does not seem to work though. |
thanks. it should be fixed now.
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
(Post 12086210)
Starter Cable replacement
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum...ter-cable.html http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic...tage-problems/ It wouldn't let me edit my original post so I just put it here. Maybe we should make this a google shared document so anyone interested can contribute/edit? |
Originally Posted by jdjones2010
(Post 12287745)
I couldn't get Either of these threads? Have they been Deleted?
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...implified.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ter-cable.html |
When installing new mufflers with your existing exhaust tips, or installing new tips on your old mufflers, you may find that the clamps that hold the tips to the mufflers are rusted to the point that you need to cut them off.
Pro tip: Cut the bolt, not the clamp - it turns out that the OEM clamps work MUCH better than the knock-off clamps that some of the parts sites sell. I messed with the non-Porsche clamps I bought from Pelican for 90 minutes and never got the tips properly attached to my new Fister mufflers. When I gave up and used the new nuts and bolts with the original clamps, I got both tips installed - with the Fisters already on the car - in about 20 minutes. I don't know why the new clamps sucked so much - they appear identical to the Porsche clamps - but I highly endorse buying a new set of "genuine" clamps if you find yourself in need of this item. It's worth the extra 10 bucks. |
Originally Posted by Ahsai
(Post 12287759)
Please try these two:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...implified.html https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ter-cable.html |
Originally Posted by sjg1138
(Post 12246957)
OK. So this ought to be interesting if it works. I took the first page of this thread and put it in a Google doc which can be found here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...it?usp=sharing
Anyone (in the world) should be able to view the doc. I also gave permissions to Ahsai to modify the doc. This way we can have a running list of good threads related to fixes etc. It might be an idea to add a "Last updated by and when" line to this document as well! Cheers! |
996 articles thread
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-articles.html |
Originally Posted by JMLavoie
(Post 13032508)
Phenomenal idea! Thanks Ahsaï, sjg1138 et al.
It might be an idea to add a "Last updated by and when" line to this document as well! Cheers!
Originally Posted by Vancouver996
(Post 13033711)
996 articles thread
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-articles.html |
List updated.
Originally Posted by sjg1138
(Post 12246957)
OK. So this ought to be interesting if it works. I took the first page of this thread and put it in a Google doc which can be found here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...it?usp=sharing
Anyone (in the world) should be able to view the doc. I also gave permissions to Ahsai to modify the doc. This way we can have a running list of good threads related to fixes etc. |
Good afternoon. I have a 2003 996. It is leaking coolant at a good rate from the front of the engine(right behind the back seat). It doesnt seem to be coming from the water pump or the filler tank. Any suggestions of what it could be?
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Originally Posted by EdPorsche996
(Post 13195839)
Good afternoon. I have a 2003 996. It is leaking coolant at a good rate from the front of the engine(right behind the back seat). It doesnt seem to be coming from the water pump or the filler tank. Any suggestions of what it could be?
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Porsche Parts Suppliers
Someone posted this on RennTech. By no means all inclusive, but an interesting list of suppliers:
http://www.weissach.net/PorschePartsSuppliers.html |
Wow, great list. Thanks RLers.
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The Master List lives here:
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...it?usp=sharing |
Jas, 12 posts and 5 are here.........
knock it off............. looks like spam........ will be treated like spam. |
Checked out the window regulator today. Removed an excess screw/bump stop in the lower right section of the driver's side. Once unscrewed the window traveled freely below the window sill.
Tanks Rennlist- |
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Owner's Manual PDF
Does anybody have a link to a PDF for the manual for a 2000 996.1? It did not come with one and I cannot figure out some small things.
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1 Attachment(s)
This little hose needs an end point if I'm going to get the coolant system up & running again. Anyone know its attachment point?
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Originally Posted by TonyTwoBags
(Post 13911870)
This little hose needs an end point if I'm going to get the coolant system up & running again. Anyone know its attachment point?
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/727612-new-water-pump-hose-doesn-t-fit.html |
Originally Posted by TonyTwoBags
(Post 13911870)
This little hose needs an end point if I'm going to get the coolant system up & running again. Anyone know its attachment point?
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Thanks Ahsai. Owe you a bottle of your favorite spirits :)
just checked and it looks like I just need to grab a new t fitting. Best case scenario so far |
:rockon:
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Originally Posted by TonyTwoBags
(Post 13911870)
This little hose needs an end point if I'm going to get the coolant system up & running again. Anyone know its attachment point?
996-106-851-03-M100 https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...bef71c7373.jpg @ahsai - Is that beautiful m96 your main car or a project? |
Thanks! It's my project car. I have another virtually identical '03 as a DD. Two Porsche doubles the happiness :)
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This website contains some good useful information on Porsche technical specs, fuses and relays, maintenance specs and schedules, etc. http://howtoporsche.com/
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Hi. I successfully created a thread asking a question and had no problem. I then tried creating another thread for a question, and when I tried to publish, it said it had to be reviewed by a moderator. That was about 3 days ago and I have not seen it. I have a serious issue with my car now I need to ask a question about, and I got the same message about it needing to be reviewed. Is there a reason my 2nd and 3rd posts need review? Is it because I included an external link? Appreciate any guidance. Thanks.
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whats the question?
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This is what my latest post said:
Well, on my 9th official day of 911 ownership, I already have a medium-sized disaster. I sent my ECU to we well-known tuner via USPS. Long story short, USPS says they delivered to the correct address, tuner has no idea where the ECU is, never took delivery. I am of course still working with the vender and the USPS on this, but it's now been 5 days, and no one knows where my ECU is, so I am planning for the worst. I do not want to go into any further detail on that now, as I am still trying to resolve. Yes, it was insured, but I am having issues with that end, as USPS says they did their part and delivered the package correctly. I will take care of that as it unfolds. Apparently there was no signature, I assumed there would just be one on an insured priority package. Anyways, Porsche quoted me $4,975 for a new Bosch DME and the requisite programming to get me back running. I have a high-end shop in my area also putting together a quote. As I mentioned, I have no idea (and no control over) what the results of the insurance claim will be. We've all heard the stories. My question is, if buy everything, the ECU, Immobilizer, ignition column, door lock, matching keys, like this example here, and switched everything over, wouldn't that work? How would the car know the difference? I am not trying to reprogram the immobilizer or keys, so why would I need the IPAS codes or previous car's VIN #? Anyone have any suggestions or experience with this? Thanks a ton. The good news is, you guys might be getting a brand new, unopened IDP Plenum, GT3 throttle body, BMC filter and PC950 lightweight battery for dirt cheap... |
Originally Posted by orangeman
(Post 14086039)
This is what my latest post said:
Well, on my 9th official day of 911 ownership, I already have a medium-sized disaster. I sent my ECU to we well-known tuner via USPS. Long story short, USPS says they delivered to the correct address, tuner has no idea where the ECU is, never took delivery. I am of course still working with the vender and the USPS on this, but it's now been 5 days, and no one knows where my ECU is, so I am planning for the worst. I do not want to go into any further detail on that now, as I am still trying to resolve. Yes, it was insured, but I am having issues with that end, as USPS says they did their part and delivered the package correctly. I will take care of that as it unfolds. Apparently there was no signature, I assumed there would just be one on an insured priority package. Anyways, Porsche quoted me $4,975 for a new Bosch DME and the requisite programming to get me back running. I have a high-end shop in my area also putting together a quote. As I mentioned, I have no idea (and no control over) what the results of the insurance claim will be. We've all heard the stories. My question is, if buy everything, the ECU, Immobilizer, ignition column, door lock, matching keys, like this example here, and switched everything over, wouldn't that work? How would the car know the difference? I am not trying to reprogram the immobilizer or keys, so why would I need the IPAS codes or previous car's VIN #? Anyone have any suggestions or experience with this? Thanks a ton. The good news is, you guys might be getting a brand new, unopened IDP Plenum, GT3 throttle body, BMC filter and PC950 lightweight battery for dirt cheap... |
Yeah, thanks man, I'm sure sometime will work out.
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This article thread keeps growing , lots of good videos too .
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...-articles.html |
France and Europe Porsche Parts (not sure if they ship overseas to US). New from July 2017 PCA Panorama magazine - https://www.rosepassion.com/en
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They are great! I bought my head bolts ($12 x24) from them when no one in US had the bolts in stock. Cheaper than US too at the time.
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So they do ship to the US. Good to know. Just out of curiosity, I know someone in one of the threads was looking for a crankshaft, so I looked that up. They have them for about $4,500. Wow!
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Originally Posted by DBJoe996
(Post 14362160)
So they do ship to the US. Good to know. Just out of curiosity, I know someone in one of the threads was looking for a crankshaft, so I looked that up. They have them for about $4,500. Wow!
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Originally Posted by DBJoe996
(Post 14360708)
France and Europe Porsche Parts (not sure if they ship overseas to US). New from July 2017 PCA Panorama magazine - https://www.rosepassion.com/en
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This is an uncommon situation, but one that took far too long for me to diagnose. When my car was nailed in the left-hand side marker, one of the pins in the bulb socket got pushed down into the base of the socket and shorted against the opposite polarity pin. In this configuration, smoke will come from your instrument cluster when you turn on the headlights, which is less than ideal.
I spent far too much time focusing on the cluster, since I'd replaced that bulb any number of times without noticing the bent pin inside the socket; I assumed (incorrectly) that a short would result in a blown fuse. This will probably never happen to any other 996 owner, but that's what the deal was. Man, it's nice to be able to drive at night again. :D *edit* Thanks to Lesli and Gavin from ModuleMasters, who kindly offered to help me troubleshoot via telephone. |
I changed out my rear light clusters for Spyder LED units. Plug and play as advertised and a nice upgrade. I kept the original units for when/if I sell the car. Now the “problem. After I was done, I had refit the original incandescent bulbs for the backup lights and the rear fogs, the right side rear fog did not work. Assumed a blown bulb and since I was opening it up anyway, bought 4 LED replacement bulbs for the backup lights and fogs. Replaced all four and.......the right rear fog didn’t’t work. THAT’S when I Googled it only to find out that the right rear fog was never supposed to work on North American cars and Porsche supplied the cars with a wired plug to keep moisture out but no bulb. Apparently this is known but I guess the prior owner thought there should be a bulb and installed it. Dumb me just “assumed” and put in an LED. So now, I am permanently carrying a replacement 1157 LED bulb in the right rear fog position for when one of the others burns out (like NEVER). Live and learn. Hopefully this helps someone else. |
my Audies can so equipped as well...........
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Discovered a new detailing technique and possibly saving a ton of money. Since I have the black leather interior and black four spoke steering wheel, I noticed some fading in spots, particularly on the top part of the steering wheel. I am very good about applying leather treatment, but in this case it needed something more. Picked up a can of Kiwi Black Shoe Polish (the paste kind in the little can) and tested it. It worked perfectly! I was surprised but now my steering wheel looks like new. Nice shiny black all the way around. After testing it, I decided to do the whole steering wheel. Put on the shoe polish and rubbed it all in, then polished it off. You would think that it might come off on your hands, but it doesn't. After doing the steering wheel, I went after some other small areas on the center console and door panels. Worked great there as well. Think I'll tackle the seat side bolsters next. Just thought I would share this because it worked so well.
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Originally Posted by DBJoe996
(Post 14765113)
Discovered a new detailing technique and possibly saving a ton of money. Since I have the black leather interior and black four spoke steering wheel, I noticed some fading in spots, particularly on the top part of the steering wheel. I am very good about applying leather treatment, but in this case it needed something more. Picked up a can of Kiwi Black Shoe Polish (the paste kind in the little can) and tested it. It worked perfectly! I was surprised but now my steering wheel looks like new. Nice shiny black all the way around. After testing it, I decided to do the whole steering wheel. Put on the shoe polish and rubbed it all in, then polished it off. You would think that it might come off on your hands, but it doesn't. After doing the steering wheel, I went after some other small areas on the center console and door panels. Worked great there as well. Think I'll tackle the seat side bolsters next. Just thought I would share this because it worked so well.
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I waited for about a week to share what I did because I wanted to see how it held up. It does not rub off or come off on your hands. Amazingly it made my steering wheel look new and touched up some other areas as well. Not sure about shoe polish creams, but the black shoe polish paste I used really did it up right. I applied it sparingly with a folded towel, worked it into the leather, then polished it off with a microfiber towel. All in about fifteen minutes for a new looking steering wheel.
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Originally Posted by DBJoe996
(Post 14769923)
I waited for about a week to share what I did because I wanted to see how it held up. It does not rub off or come off on your hands. Amazingly it made my steering wheel look new and touched up some other areas as well. Not sure about shoe polish creams, but the black shoe polish paste I used really did it up right. I applied it sparingly with a folded towel, worked it into the leather, then polished it off with a microfiber towel. All in about fifteen minutes for a new looking steering wheel.
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I'm getting ready to pull my suitcase and I really only want to do it once as well. I have some blower noise and was having a problem with blowing the blower fuse. That problem has stopped after fixing the servo motors- thanks to Tore. However I bought a set of the Dansk brand blowers (Pelican) as they cost $165us or so each. If your curious about them and I get done before you I'll post up my results. Pete |
Originally Posted by DBJoe996
(Post 14765113)
Discovered a new detailing technique and possibly saving a ton of money. Since I have the black leather interior and black four spoke steering wheel, I noticed some fading in spots, particularly on the top part of the steering wheel. I am very good about applying leather treatment, but in this case it needed something more. Picked up a can of Kiwi Black Shoe Polish (the paste kind in the little can) and tested it. It worked perfectly! I was surprised but now my steering wheel looks like new. Nice shiny black all the way around. After testing it, I decided to do the whole steering wheel. Put on the shoe polish and rubbed it all in, then polished it off. You would think that it might come off on your hands, but it doesn't. After doing the steering wheel, I went after some other small areas on the center console and door panels. Worked great there as well. Think I'll tackle the seat side bolsters next. Just thought I would share this because it worked so well.
And I also would have expected it to come off on your hands to some extent. My shoes do a tiny bit after shine. |
Yes, able to fill in some scratches/wear marks on the leather seats and console lid. Worked darn good for that as well. I've since done a re-treat of the polish on the steering wheel and buffed it in really well. I have not seen any sign of the polish rubbing off, getting on my sweaty palms, or getting on anything else. I swear and I'm a bit surprised as well, but it doesn't come off on your hands. And it took away that rough feeling on the steering wheel. Now it feels smooth and looks shiny new.
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Originally Posted by DBJoe996
(Post 14873861)
Yes, able to fill in some scratches/wear marks on the leather seats and console lid. Worked darn good for that as well. I've since done a re-treat of the polish on the steering wheel and buffed it in really well. I have not seen any sign of the polish rubbing off, getting on my sweaty palms, or getting on anything else. I swear and I'm a bit surprised as well, but it doesn't come off on your hands. And it took away that rough feeling on the steering wheel. Now it feels smooth and looks shiny new.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...4c1ef20048.jpg Shifter before https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...82d1c29eeb.jpg Kiwi polish kit that I used https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...43d8bc5d50.jpg Shifter after |
That looks....ummmm...well used! I had nowhere near that amount of nicks and scratches. You've got to admit that it did work somewhat to dress it up. Like I said, I used the black Kiwi paste shoe polish. After my second and third coats, it polished up nicely. Looks like you might need to budget for a replacement shifter knob soon.
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Thanks for the quick reply.. Yeah, it's definitely "used"..:) I was mainly inquiring to make sure I was using the right product. I'll give it a few more coats as there was some improvement after the first application.
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I would think something like LeatherWorld leather repair products would work wonders on the nicked up shifter and boot... |
Tried the Kiwi polish on the seat bolsters and it worked like a charm. Applied a couple coats and and no signs of it rubbing off after a few weeks of usehttps://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f9bc7f3ff7.jpg
Before https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...1b46a06385.jpg After |
I also used this tip, had trouble to find a really dark blue polish to match the Metropol Blue interior, but I finally found it on line and the results have been fantastic. Thanks to the OP for this tip. |
Thanks for everyone' input, this is amazing!
Hey folks,
Well I finally got my dream car and it only took 51 years :) 1999 911 Carrera with 99,000 miles, great condition and I am now knocking away at little things here and there. I am amazed at the information given and appreciate every little thing that has been added to this forum from the simple DIY to "I better take it to my tech...." I have learned so much that I could not get elsewhere with such ease. Thanks for making my dream not a nightmare $$$$$$. |
Originally Posted by Flyfishnick
(Post 15030483)
Hey folks,
Well I finally got my dream car and it only took 51 years :) 1999 911 Carrera with 99,000 miles, great condition and I am now knocking away at little things here and there. I am amazed at the information given and appreciate every little thing that has been added to this forum from the simple DIY to "I better take it to my tech...." I have learned so much that I could not get elsewhere with such ease. Thanks for making my dream not a nightmare $$$$$$. Agreed. I have the same year manufacture and birth and same goal finally attained. Enjoy |
I suggest adding https://www.porsche.com/all/media/pd...SA_KATALOG.pdf to the parts diagram section of OP and autohausaz to the Where To Buy Parts section. The pdf is searchable. Autohausaz only had ~50% of 996 parts I looked for but had best prices by a good margin on many of them and free shipping over $48.
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This should be added to the list: A/C and Heat Blowing Foam Repair:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...c-works-3.html Also add this method: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...ent-issue.html |
Shift into reverse?
OK - Stupid question time. Is there any trick to getting my 2000 Carerra 4 into reverse? The manual says to hold the clutch in for a few seconds. Sometimes that works, but often not. I've tried turning the car off and back on, shifting it through the gears, holding clutch in for 30 seconds. Nothing consistently works. Am I just an idiot? Is there a way to get rid of that delay?
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Originally Posted by LarryAnderson
(Post 18176823)
OK - Stupid question time. Is there any trick to getting my 2000 Carerra 4 into reverse? The manual says to hold the clutch in for a few seconds. Sometimes that works, but often not. I've tried turning the car off and back on, shifting it through the gears, holding clutch in for 30 seconds. Nothing consistently works. Am I just an idiot? Is there a way to get rid of that delay?
You could try changing the transmission fluid. I used OEM fluid when I did mine, but there are a couple other fluids that I see people recommend as well. You could try going into 1st and rock the car forward a little to see if it slips in. Just to be sure, you are pushing the stick all the way to the left, overcoming the stiff spring that makes it a big effort to go into reverse, right? You are not doing user error in muscling up to move the stick to the left. Sometimes people have problems going into 1st, but that usually happens more at cold temps. I do not think I have heard anyone having problems going into reverse. I have never heard about holding the clutch in for 30 seconds. Do you have an aftermarket shifter? I had to get my short shifter aligned correctly to get proper shifts. There is a tool you can buy for a few bucks to get your shifter alignment correct. You could have issues with your shifter cables as well. They could be getting worn depending on mileage on your car. People have changed cables to improve shift feel. The transmission mount is also another weak point. I changed my engine mounts, and they were beyond shot. My transmission mount is on my to-do list. |
Sometimes you have to double clutch to get into reverse. Push in clutch and try reverse. If it doesn't go, let up on clutch and then push in the clutch again, then try reverse again.
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Flakey Oil Pressure Gauge
Since having my IMS changed every now and then the oil pressure gauge drops to zero (and warning light comes on) and then it comes right back to normal. There is no change to tone of engine and no oil leaking. Seems like a loose wire on sending unit. Is the sending unit replacement difficult or require special equipment? My car is 04 Carrera. Any help appreciated.
Thanks, Gaines |
Oil pressure sensor are known for going out, easy to change and you find it above your # 6 coil, sensor has to wires.
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