Alignment with Tires, Brake Bleeding, oil change – DIY
#16
Advanced
Thread Starter
Thanks for the help and clarification on PSM bleeding. It looks like a straight forward process from what I've read and seen on video. I think I've already done a hard step by getting it up on the jack stands and removing the wheels....
If anyone else is looking at the Jack Point jack stands - I highly recommend them. I have a low profile jack but I needed to first jack the rear and set the tire down on a 2X4 in order to make more clearance for the JackPoint disc. I had my car on all 4 in a few minutes by only jacking the rear of the car on the jack points to do it.
If anyone else is looking at the Jack Point jack stands - I highly recommend them. I have a low profile jack but I needed to first jack the rear and set the tire down on a 2X4 in order to make more clearance for the JackPoint disc. I had my car on all 4 in a few minutes by only jacking the rear of the car on the jack points to do it.
#17
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Thread Starter
Brake bleeding is done! My Motive arrived today along with my rear tires (I guess the fronts will arrive tomorrow). since the car was up and the wheels off I went ahead and followed the procedure to bleed. It was very straight forward. My only concern was knowing when the old fluid ended and the new fluid started. I ended up spending 1/2 an hour and 1 liter of fluid on the rear.... After that the front were done in less than 10 minutes. Oh well - now I know it's all clean. There weren't many/any bubbles and the first Oz or two came out a little cloudy on each nipple. Other than that it was all gold.
Thanks to everyone for the assistance! Now it's time to get the rubber mounted and drop it for an alignment. Brake pads looked good and are about 1/8" away from the warning post. I was surprised that they were warn about the same at all four corners. I think I'm done with my 55,000 mile DYI service.
Next project.... -> plugs and coils..... I've read the posts and watched the videos.... I'm considering having an Indy do it. If I only had confidence that I could reach/change the rear plug/coil. Don't want to have it stuck in my garage and in need of help.... Plan to decide that by Christmas so I have time to think on it.....
Thanks again!
Thanks to everyone for the assistance! Now it's time to get the rubber mounted and drop it for an alignment. Brake pads looked good and are about 1/8" away from the warning post. I was surprised that they were warn about the same at all four corners. I think I'm done with my 55,000 mile DYI service.
Next project.... -> plugs and coils..... I've read the posts and watched the videos.... I'm considering having an Indy do it. If I only had confidence that I could reach/change the rear plug/coil. Don't want to have it stuck in my garage and in need of help.... Plan to decide that by Christmas so I have time to think on it.....
Thanks again!
#19
How do you get the old fluid out of the reservoir? Most of the instructions say to remove the screen and use a turkey baster to suck out the old fluid. I removed the screen but there is something else blocking the way. It looks like you couldn't use anything larger than 1/8 inch.
#20
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Thread Starter
I found the same thing. I had the turkey baster in hand but couldn't get past the plastic top section after removing the screen. I just pumped the old out through the rear. That's why it took me 1/2 hour on the right rear.
Good thing I bought the Motive to do the pushing (I used it dry). Just be careful not to let the reservoir drain completely. I also couldn't tell when I had completely drained all of the old fluid and started bleeding new since they were the same color. I don't know how to best judge that one......
Good Luck!
Good thing I bought the Motive to do the pushing (I used it dry). Just be careful not to let the reservoir drain completely. I also couldn't tell when I had completely drained all of the old fluid and started bleeding new since they were the same color. I don't know how to best judge that one......
Good Luck!
#21
I found a small siphon hand-pump for 4 bucks at Pep Boys and was able to get most of it out with that, but it wasn't fast. I had the same issue with trying to figure out when to stop bleeding because it was hard to tell by color. I wasn't worried about using too much because I bought 2 liters. Next time I will use a different color (and buy less).
There are a lot of different methods posted. I filled the reservoir and put the rest into the power-bleeder. I like your method better, seems like it would require less clean up.
The waste-side tubing that came with the power bleeder was way too short. I bought a roll of tubing at Home Depot for $5. I drilled a hole in a bottle cap and fed the tube thru there. I put the cap on an empty 2-liter soda bottle. That worked very well.
All in all, not a tough job.
Edit: Oh yeah, it added 23.457 hp.
There are a lot of different methods posted. I filled the reservoir and put the rest into the power-bleeder. I like your method better, seems like it would require less clean up.
The waste-side tubing that came with the power bleeder was way too short. I bought a roll of tubing at Home Depot for $5. I drilled a hole in a bottle cap and fed the tube thru there. I put the cap on an empty 2-liter soda bottle. That worked very well.
All in all, not a tough job.
Edit: Oh yeah, it added 23.457 hp.
Last edited by wyovino; 09-14-2013 at 09:46 PM.
#22
Advanced
Thread Starter
Glad you got that extra HP! I wasn't able to measure mine, but it sure seems faster...
that tube they provided was small but I used a clear 10oz drink bottle with a drill top and it was able to "float" without pulling off with only a few oz in it. The only time it became heavy and I had to empty it was on the first bleed when I was draining the original from through the system.
Yes, it's a very easy process. Have fun!
that tube they provided was small but I used a clear 10oz drink bottle with a drill top and it was able to "float" without pulling off with only a few oz in it. The only time it became heavy and I had to empty it was on the first bleed when I was draining the original from through the system.
Yes, it's a very easy process. Have fun!
#23
To drain the fluid from the reservoir I used an old pump from a large hand-soap bottle. I cleaned it and let it dry the day before. Having a larger tube/pump would be useful, but this did the job quite well. The tube is small enough to fit into the reservoir opening and the pump could remove enough of the fluid in a minute or two. It did help to remove the plastic cover surrounding the reservoir but I'm not sure I would do that next time.
When I bled the brakes I added measurement lines (ie 100-500ml in 100ml increments) to my waste bottle so I knew how much fluid I was removing. I found the amount to remove for each corner on this forum. I ended using exactly 1L. My only problem was that the waste-side tubing kept slipping off the nipple so I'll look for a longer tube next time.
When I bled the brakes I added measurement lines (ie 100-500ml in 100ml increments) to my waste bottle so I knew how much fluid I was removing. I found the amount to remove for each corner on this forum. I ended using exactly 1L. My only problem was that the waste-side tubing kept slipping off the nipple so I'll look for a longer tube next time.
#24
Racer
bump +1 thank you guys. I recently purchase an 04 C4S Cab and plan to do a lot of DIY projects as well. Reading through this thread has given me encouragement. Cheers!
#25
Rennlist Member
This is what I found from my shop manual. My car is a C4 so yes it has PSM like yours. The sequence is different than a C2. LR, RR, LF and RF. It also talks about a 2nd bleed for the booster pump. I have never done this and i track my car. I have a Durametric and need to see if I can access the booster pump. See the attached. I didn't read the Pelican article. I think you would be fine bleeding without doing step 2 regarding the booster pump.
Isn't that instruction set for a UK (right hand drive) car? I think on a left hand drive (US) car I would do RR, LR, RF, LF (closest to the reservoir) last.