FVD or "x51" oil baffles
#32
Rennlist Member
#33
Rennlist Member
Bypro is basically correct. Porsche has changed the castings slightly over the coarse of production which seems to translate into some very small changes in fit with our baffle. However, of you purchase a brand new factory pan or a factory X51 baffle with pan, the pan itself is the exact same part.
#34
Instructor
Thread Starter
So...been busy at work, but got a few hours spare today.
Started by removing the rubber on one of the tabs, the one that didnt fit well.
Sealant, darn it is so hard, hence why the bead is so squiggly. Worked the last time...so it probably will this time too.
Then place it up, first few turns of the screws by hand to avoid cross threading, then go round one turn at a time ntil "tight", then final round with 10Nm. The sealant should just barely be visible in the seam between case and pan, with a tiny teeny excess showing, tried to capture it with the iPhone, look carwfully and its just visible.
Then I will let it stand for a few days to cure before adding oil.
Its fun to document! :-) hope this helps those who havent done it before. Will post results in a few months when I have tracked it.
Started by removing the rubber on one of the tabs, the one that didnt fit well.
Sealant, darn it is so hard, hence why the bead is so squiggly. Worked the last time...so it probably will this time too.
Then place it up, first few turns of the screws by hand to avoid cross threading, then go round one turn at a time ntil "tight", then final round with 10Nm. The sealant should just barely be visible in the seam between case and pan, with a tiny teeny excess showing, tried to capture it with the iPhone, look carwfully and its just visible.
Then I will let it stand for a few days to cure before adding oil.
Its fun to document! :-) hope this helps those who havent done it before. Will post results in a few months when I have tracked it.
#35
Burning Brakes
What did you use to get the old sealant off so well? The machined ridges on the sealant surface make it a real PITA to get the old sealant off to the metal. Yours looks great! Of course, it's up to you, but did you notice that the old sealant went completely around the bolt holes? I noticed you only went on the pan side and though that is fine to keep the oil in, it does allow a path for water to get to the bolts and threads. Just a heads up for anyone else referencing this thread. May or may not be a big deal depending on the weather you llve & drive in, etc.
#36
I remember when I dropped my pan, I had an horrible time removing the previous sealant, but then I read here that the old one goes away much faster using so Acetone (double check as I am not 100% sure about the name of the product)
anyways with this product, it went away real easy... it was a life saver when I realized I had put the oil pan and forgot to put the baffles in LOL !! I was so stressed out about applying the sealant properly, I forgot the baffle on my desk... so I had to clean up the whole thing twice... at least I saw my sealant looked pretty good
anyways with this product, it went away real easy... it was a life saver when I realized I had put the oil pan and forgot to put the baffles in LOL !! I was so stressed out about applying the sealant properly, I forgot the baffle on my desk... so I had to clean up the whole thing twice... at least I saw my sealant looked pretty good
#38
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...gl4055SGW1W0bl
This has saved me many times from having to exert a lot of elbow grease on gaskets before.
This has saved me many times from having to exert a lot of elbow grease on gaskets before.
#39
#41
If you look at one really close, it is like a round brillo pad with many fibers in it. The only way I can see it overpolishing is if you use a worn out pad that has severely blocked fibers reducing the courseness of it.
#44
Rennlist Member