KrazyK

Kevin, I didnt post that. I was pointing out the contrast between diesel engine VS. gasoline engine and the absurdity to compare the two. I ran Rotella in all the diesels I owned and my brother does as well.

I think the JG DT40 is more M96 specific than Rotella though I dont know of any formal test that backs that up other than what JR was willing to post. Mobil1 0-40W apparently is not as suitable as well.

Capt. Obvious

Also, I wouldn't consider 7k rpm a high-revving engine. Middle of the road at best.

KrazyK

LOL, compared to what? A 6.7L Cummins or a 500CC two stroke?

Kevin

Guys the standard that we should be following is a REVERSE in the metal wear trend. If you have a oil that is lowing metal wear. Stick with it. There are alot of folks runing Rotella in there GT2, GT3's and have GREAT Blackstone reports..

I wouldn't toss Jon's report down the drain until he gets another test in the books. Shouldn't see metal wear increases.

FYI I strongly recommend Mobil 1 VTwin 20W50 for ALL aircooled engines..

Meares

+1

Meares

i get my mobil1 0w-40 for free (and any oil for that matter,) and i'm going to start with jake's engine flush and then the DT40 ......i am curious about the mobile 1 5w-40 though...i think it's for mercedes

perryinva

Please don't draw conclusions based on supposition and turn this into a Mobil 1 witch hunt. Most oil threads are just that, supposition, because it is near impossible to determine if it is the oil or something else that caused the issue, unless there is a full history of oil tests supporting it. Show me a few oil tests in the same car, with Mobil 1 indicating abnormal wear, then a DT40 oil change, no other changes, and all the wear stops, and then it will be more convincing. Thousands & thousands of M96 are running Mobil1 0-40, and the streets aren't littered with their carcasses. As mentioned before, Jake sees all the problems, and statistically, he never would after he does his rebuilds, as he address many other issues. We're not talking Sears 30 weight Dino oil here. There is absolutely NO indication that Mobil 1 fragged the OPs engine. Just a few metal particles in the right oil ports preventing flow, would have caused the same thing, with ANY oil. I'll bet we can find many owners with Blackstone reports on Mobil 1 that show no abnormal wear. Had the OP removed the oil pan and checked for any debris when he got he car? He didn't, so anything is inconclusive. I could just as easily lay the blame on the Porsche bypass oil filter system. After all, they all have that, and JR changes to the spin on adapter and full filtration, and the engines don't detonate. (I happen to fully agree with that design point though) I agree that DT40 is more likely a better oil for the M96 than Mobil 1, as are many others, I'm sure, because of the low zinc content, in the latter formulations, and that is one of the reasons I switched. If I change my oil every 3k miles with 5w-40 Syntec, are you telling me you can prove that I will get less wear and never have an oil related engine problem if I switch & do the same thing with DT40? Do you have oil tests of the previous changes on your car, and them will you have them or the DT40 when you make the switch? Anyone? Since all M96 come with Mobil 1 and that is what the vast majority of oil changes are made with, OF COURSE, all the failures will have engines with Mobil 1 in them. So is D-chunking cause by Mobil 1? IMS failure by Mobil 1...Cause and effect must be proven or strongly linked, not just be coincidence or scapegoating. My $0.02.

Quadcammer

wow, are you and JR dating?

I've never seen anyone become the nutswinger you have so quickly.

Yes, JR is great for the community and has tons of knowledge on the m96.

But to act like no one else could have a valid opinion is absurd.

Sneaky Pete

You have the gall to doubt MrK Knutswinger?? On an OIL thread? Quad......you are not alone. I have read the 5+ pages of this lunacy and I want my time back.

Macster

Some variations of Mobil 1 5w-40 are Mercedes approved but there are a few variations that are Porsche approved. Look for "A40" on the bottle which indicates the oil is specifically Porsche approved.

Macster

This is about the most ridiculous thing I've come across in a while in an oil thread.

So you use a non approved oil to "flush" the engine of an approved oil. This oil is the wrong viscosity. Probably mineral oil based but I've not bothered to look up its MSDS.

('course the turbo diesel oil is great crowd doesn't let 10% or 20% mineral oil content in some of these oils scare them...)

Then with some of this unapproved oil still in the engine you then fill it with another unapproved oil.

If you are going to use an unapproved oil if the engine so desperately needs this magic DT-40 oil why not flush the engine with this oil to begin with?

Thus when you refill the engine after draining the flushing oil the concentration of this DT-40 oil is higher than it would be using an intermediate flushing oil.

What in God's name is the next step in this oil madness? Changing the oil during a solar eclipse? Using an ancient Maya calendar?
Animal sacrifices at oil change time?

dennis hiip

This thread is getting better and better

Gonzo911

Can anyone recommend a good windshield washing fluid that won't blow up my car?

KrazyK

I think hes doing exactly what JR recommended. So what exactly is ridiculous?

I think I understand why JR is hesitant to post some of his research methods and findings. It offends the sheep. How quickly they attack when you reveal their Mobil1's issues with the M96. Its a good thing JR didnt listen when the "experts" told him he couldnt replace the IMSB.

My JG oil arrived yesterday. I plan to do the same when I replace IMSB, RMS, and clutch.

alpine003

IBTL.

BTW, There are sheeps on BOTH sides.

"who you calling sheep, sheep?"