MaxJax Install w/ Pics & Problems
 

This is my 3rd install of the same unit. In preparation for a fun, winter project (VF Eng. SC install), I unistalled it from my father's garage and brought it home (where dammit, it will stay, so help me) :)

The first two installs were pretty smooth. I got in a hurry with this one and now I'm in a quandry. Of the ten holes I drilled with a rented Home Depot Makita Hammer Drill, 7 of the 10 were perfect (7/8" masonary drill bit at min 5" deep).

I'll describe the problem holes, and perhaps you guys can give me some advice:
Hole 1
Problem: hit rebar at 2.5" depth
Option #1: rent hammerdrill again and drill through rebar with a ?steel? drill bit, then finish drilling the depth with masonary bit

Hole 2
Problem: not deep enough, anchor mangled, cannot be removed
Option #1: rent hammerdrill again and drill out anchor using ??? drill bit, then drill 1 1/4" oversize hole with masonary bit, order the 1 1/4" (SD1) Wej-It PowerDrop Anchor http://www.toggler.com/wejit/power_drop.html
Option #2: same as 1 above, but instead of drilling oversize, fill with chemical epoxy and start over

Hole 3
Problem: not deep enough, 1/2 of the anchor still in concreate (concrete busted)
Solve Option #1: rent hammerdrill again and drill it to the necessary depth this time! Should I fill the busted concrete? The depth of the missing concrete is approximately 1/4".

Last night I finished the pump and hose installation (pics)Pump installed on the wall, hydraulic hoes running across the ceiling, etc. The hose attached to the ceiling is fastened with aluminum conduit holders. For the vertical walls, I used 5/8" rubber fasteners. Is that bend in the hose from the pump too severe? Holders & fasteners purchased at Home Depot's electrical dept. Hydraulic hoses and connectors (NPT) purchased from TractorSupply.com (local to me).

For you guys that love photos :rockon:

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-z2_dGqQAxi...0/IMG_6296.JPG
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xlEKj7br3O...0/IMG_6295.JPG
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BwSPtTOw0i...0/IMG_6291.JPG
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Se8Fne6quc...0/IMG_6292.JPG
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-edETzYWAHv...0/IMG_6293.JPG
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T-QgLLs1OP...0/IMG_6294.JPG

How high is your garage ceiling? Why did you choose MaxJax instead a 4 post lift that be had at around $1500 since your garage looks to be high enough to store a 2 car stacked setup?

The savings from a 4 post lift can be spent on new garage door tracks to accommodate the 2nd car on the 4 post lift.

I chose the MaxJax three years ago when I lived in a home with a garage that had 8' ceilings. The last year it spent at my father's home with 8' ceilings. My current home hast 11' 6" ceilings (floor to sheetrock). If I need to take it back to my dad's garage, I can easily, since the anchors are still in the floor (and he too owns a 996).

#1 go back and drill thru the rebar
#2 Drill out the wej-it. Might be easier said then done and replace with oversized
#3 grind down the top of the wej-it to the normal level of concrete. Use some concrete anchor epoxy to level it out around the 1/4" of missing concrete. You are only loosing a few threads and you have plenty of concrete below for strength.

Another option is get 2 pieces of 1/2 steel cut about about 6" larger all around the base size. Have some 5/8" truck studs pressed into holes cut at same locations as the maxjax base holes. Redrill the holes for wej-it in the base plate and bolt the maxjax to the plate using studs.

Option 4. Move the MaxJax assembly 12 inches in some other direction?

I'm in OPKS too. I've got two of the 4 post lifts, bought them about 5 years ago and love them. I have a 3 car garage, which allows me to store 5 cars. I would have a third 4 post lift, but my wife refuses to park under one because she's afraid she'll hit one of the posts. That doesn't mean they are hard to park under - this is a woman who took out a portion of our garage wall with the right front corner of her car, and has run into the side of the garage door opening multiple times. :banghead:

With the 4 posts, there are no anchors required - no drilling required. They have casters so you can move them into the driveway to clean the garage, just don't get the extra tall version. You won't need them and they are too tall to roll out the garage door. My garage ceiling is about 10 feet tall. I can easily stack a BMW 325i convertible (top up) on top of Benz S-class. I've stacked a Countach replica on top of a Ford Explorer 4x4.

I realize this doesn't address your questions, but I think the 4 post lifts are the best kept secret out there for car guys. The only downside is that it doesn't appear a 4 post lift will give you as good under-car access for maintenance as the MaxJax, especially on an engine drop. But, I've done plenty of maintenance using the 4 post lifts that there is no way I could've done with just a floor jack and jack stands.

Thanks guys for the comments and advice. It gave me a lot to think about. I finished installing the MaxJax over the weekend. Here are some photos (and captions).

http://doug996inkc.blogspot.com/2012/12/blog-post.html

Now I'm ready to start installing a VF Supercharger!

Easy solution. West Marine offers horizontal, cushioned wheels you put on the corner of a dock so a boat can hit the corner and the non-marking wheel just rolls the boat into the slip. Add these to the edges of the garage opening and they'll just roll her right into her space. You can even get a couple of dock lines to tie the car in case she forgets to set the parking brake.

You're welcome.

Hey Doug-

Sounds like you could have a second career with the MaxJax!

Hi Doug,

I joined specifically because I was searching maxjaxs and this came up. I'm over at garage journal and asked questions there too but your setup in particular I really like.

If you don't mind me asking where did you get that shorter hydraulic hose that is attached to the post closest to the wall? And what is the best way to mount the maxjax pump on the wall? I was thinking mount a piece of plywood on the wall between the studs, then mount two smaller pieces of 2x4 on the plywood then mount the black bracket that would normally be on the cart on the plywood and then hang the pump? I say this because the black metal bracket has holes on the sides that I can use screws to mount to the 2x4's? Does this sound right?


Also: I just went through your blog.

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QCjM5OQbME...6+22.06.00.jpg

HOW did you get the holes so perfect?? There is NO chipping at all.... This is going to be the first time drilling in concrete and I got the two following items:

Bosch RH328VC 1-1/8-Inch SDS Rotary Hammer

And the 7/8th drill bit:
Bosch HC2147 S4L SDS-Plus Bit 7/8 by 16 by 18-Inch

Thanks so much,
-Nigel

The hoses are available at http://www.tractorsupply.com -- there are many online vendors, though. I chose TSC because they are local, and was easier to wheel the pump in and test out fittings & hoses there.

I published a few more photos to the BLOG -- http://doug996inkc.blogspot.com/2012/12/blog-post.html The width of a 2x4 is a bit too wide. Just cut it down some. Also, if you can, rest the wood on the lip of the concrete foundation (if your house was built with one).

Although this may not be advised, I used the lift column base as a guide. Position the 7/8" bit directly in the hole of the base, and drill away, assuring the bit is as "true" as possible. Be sure to drill completely through the concrete. When you hit gravel, you'll know it, because the drill will sink fast. Be sure the depth of the concrete is sufficient for your installation!

Hope this helps. Will reply to your PM later.

I have hoist envy! The picture of your daughter in the blog helping out is priceless!
Have you thought about a high lift conversion for your garage door? You may need to move the overhead light. I have the same garage door track in my garage and it is an eye sore (for me).
http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instru...conversion.php

Doug,

Awesome thank so much for the info!! I was unsure about the drilling honestly... I kept reading conflicting results of people saying make sure you step the drill bit to the 5/8th then the 7/8th..etc. Others said don't do that becfaues you can screw up the hole the second time around when you drill and other said just do the 7/8th from the get go! Excellent about using the plate as the template and drilling through, I had planned on doing this because it seems like it makes sense and less error of the bit wondering around and making a hole that won't accept the anchor.

Can't wait to tackle this tomorrow!!

If I have more questions I will be sure to ask ya.

Thanks,
-Nigel