Originally Posted by wwest

Since there is NO exacting definition of "Bi-Xenon" most of us assume that an HID "system" that functions in both modes meets the definition. Wherein the HID bulb provides a differing light output pattern high beam vs low beam mode.

Almost all PROJECTOR lense type Bi-xenon HID systems use a halogen bulb as fill-in in high beam mode. That's because the projector lense provides a fairly tightly focus beam pattern, "pencil" beam, and thus the halogen is required for high beam light pattern enhancement.....scattter.

Originally Posted by Mark I

Did it last week. Here's how.
You will need: 1) New ballast set (I used a full thickness one - the slim ones have the igniter in the cable; couldn't figure a place for it). 2)A set of bulb connectors. 3) Set of 55W D2S bulbs 4) Small sections of 1/8" aluminum and 1/8" rubber (dimensions below) 5) Four 6x32x1/2" panhead screws and a 6x32 tap.
6) Soldering pen & solder 7) Drill press or drill & bits up to 3/8" 8) Heatshrink wire insulation 9) Super glue
10) A free evening and flat work surface.

Remove the ballast and rear cover. Start with the two phillips and one torx screw. Depress the two clips that secure the cover; it will then unhinge to remove. You will have to remove the connector from bulb and the power connector to the ballast. To remove the ballast from the rear cover, you have to release the plastic wire cover from the housing. Press two of clips on the same corner first (not ones opposite one another). Note the length of the high voltage bulb connector. You can set the original ballast aside.

Cut two pieces of aluminum that will replace the cable cover (pretty sure it's 1 3/4" x 1 3/8"). File or grind away the corners so they will fit in the rear housing cover you removed. Cut rubber material the same size. Lightly sand the aluminum and attach the rubber to it with super glue. Drill a 3/8" hole through the center. Cut two 1" pieces of rubber with a 3/8" hole in the center and glue to the opposite surface, aligned with the hole on the center. Drill two small holes in the part you have made on opposite corners just large enough for the 6x32 screws to pass through and with enough space for the screws to clear the seating surface of the rear housing. OK, done with that - on to the wiring.

You will be cutting the amp connectors off of both the ballast and the bulb connectors. But, before you do, some important points. Note which wires connected to one another; the colors are not standard. Make sure that you cut the wires so that when you make your connections, the splices are not side by side and staggerd at least 1/2". Make the cuts so that the ultimate length will approximate the original and the splice joint will be inside the housing.

With those points in mind, cut the wires and strip the ends to prepare for soldering the connections. Before soldering the wires, pass the cable from the ballast through your plate - it should fit snuggly in the rubber. Be sure to also have your heatshrink insulation positioned over your wires and the outside cover ready to use once the connections are made. Solder the connections, position and activate the heatshrink.

Cut two small pieces of aluminum appx. 3/8" x 1/2". Drill and tap one end 6x32. These will be the tabs that hold the cable plate you made in position. Reassemble everything.

FInal notes. Your own ingenuity may provide improvements to this plan. Sturdy plastic might work in place of the aluminum. I used no-name ballasts and bulbs (5000k) which produced great results that looked like the factory color, just brighter.

Originally Posted by Mark I

@WWest - all good questions. The ballasts are labeled 4.5 amp rms so (assuming 12.6 volts) it should deliver 55 watts.

There is NO substitute for an actual DVM current measurement. Labels are EASY to print.

I tested nothing except first dry fitting one and comparing the intensity to the factory light while both were shining against my garage door.

Both 4300K...?

Appeared to be ~1.5 times as bright. Noteable difference on the street, too, especially beam width.

Given a projector system differing beam width seems unlikely...

Sure, the manufacturers and marketers of this stuff could resort to about anything, but such success would be short lived.

Short lived..? on what basis? With the demgraphics of today what dealer need worry about repeat business..?

I respectfully disagree re being a small niche market; lots of folks are offering these, including Morimoto.

Relative to the HUGE numbers perfectly satisfied with 35W HID vs 55W halogen....."small niche market".

Many have suggested trusted suppliers that they have experience with, which would be the probable best way to go. But, as a test run, I went at it on the cheap - with all of >$40 at risk. To be clear, I'm not advocating, suggesting, recommending or promoting anything - just trying to lend some added info to those already determined to or intersted in undertaking such a project. Schoene Gruesse an Alle! mark