Changing out those old motor mounts well worth it
#32
Racer
Thanks Perry in Va! Excellent stuff on engine mounts and more. Learned much from you on this topic!
Good learning that Corteco,s and Rein,s are basically the same at the Pelican website as I could not find the Rein's recently on that same website.
On the topic of C2 vs Turbo engine mounts, Pelican offers the following numbers:
C2: 993-375-049-08-M270; and
Turbo: 993-375-049-09-M270.
Differing by only 1 digit, should I assume they are <form, fit and function> with each other, with the turbo mounts being slightly more rigid, given the Turbo engine is a bit more heavy (my assumption)?
My C2 is approaching 90k miles so I take for granted that it is time for me to pull the trigger on these 13-yr-old mounts. Thanks guys!
Martin
Good learning that Corteco,s and Rein,s are basically the same at the Pelican website as I could not find the Rein's recently on that same website.
On the topic of C2 vs Turbo engine mounts, Pelican offers the following numbers:
C2: 993-375-049-08-M270; and
Turbo: 993-375-049-09-M270.
Differing by only 1 digit, should I assume they are <form, fit and function> with each other, with the turbo mounts being slightly more rigid, given the Turbo engine is a bit more heavy (my assumption)?
My C2 is approaching 90k miles so I take for granted that it is time for me to pull the trigger on these 13-yr-old mounts. Thanks guys!
Martin
#33
Thanks Perry in Va! Excellent stuff on engine mounts and more. Learned much from you on this topic!
Good learning that Corteco,s and Rein,s are basically the same at the Pelican website as I could not find the Rein's recently on that same website.
On the topic of C2 vs Turbo engine mounts, Pelican offers the following numbers:
C2: 993-375-049-08-M270; and
Turbo: 993-375-049-09-M270.
Differing by only 1 digit, should I assume they are <form, fit and function> with each other, with the turbo mounts being slightly more rigid, given the Turbo engine is a bit more heavy (my assumption)?
My C2 is approaching 90k miles so I take for granted that it is time for me to pull the trigger on these 13-yr-old mounts. Thanks guys!
Martin
Good learning that Corteco,s and Rein,s are basically the same at the Pelican website as I could not find the Rein's recently on that same website.
On the topic of C2 vs Turbo engine mounts, Pelican offers the following numbers:
C2: 993-375-049-08-M270; and
Turbo: 993-375-049-09-M270.
Differing by only 1 digit, should I assume they are <form, fit and function> with each other, with the turbo mounts being slightly more rigid, given the Turbo engine is a bit more heavy (my assumption)?
My C2 is approaching 90k miles so I take for granted that it is time for me to pull the trigger on these 13-yr-old mounts. Thanks guys!
Martin
#34
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
What will happen if you order the Corteco TT mounts from Pelican, is you will get Reins with an -08 number. That's what I did, and called them to tell them they sent me the wrong ones, and spoke to tech support, and after a few calls, they told me the ONLY mount they carry, whether for Turbo or C2 is the same Rein mount, their online catalog has not been updated, with no immediate plans to. Let us know your impression of the difference.
#36
Drifting
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Bastrop By God Texas
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I'm a big believer in this as a cheap and High Value upgrade. Last year when I bought my X73 suspension, it came with new RS mounts. I swapped them out a few weeks before I had the actual suspension installed and couldn't believe the difference the mounts alone made.
#40
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I finally got to put a few miles on the car today, and the impression only got better. I don't understand how the clutch engages so much better/smoother/predictable just because of the mounts. Like others have commented, there is also definitely a noticeable lack of weight shift now when changing turn directions, like the car is riding flatter with stiffer ARBs. Really grin inducing, between that, the better clutch engagment and less notchy shifting through the gates. Who da thunk it?
#41
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Vacuuming Cal Speedway
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JR Gordon
Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyK
The 6 speed mount can be changed while in the car.
Please elaborate.....
__________________
JR Gordon
I assumed RAC used one of these because my old one came out easliy but now Im not so sure. RAC didnt mention pulling the trans and they fixed it quickly. Now Im gonna look and make sure what they installed. Also I would be surprised the dealer would have agreed to pay if trans was removed. Surely RAC would have asked me if I wanted the clutch, RMS, or IMSB done while it was out?
Quote:
Originally Posted by KrazyK
The 6 speed mount can be changed while in the car.
Please elaborate.....
__________________
JR Gordon
I assumed RAC used one of these because my old one came out easliy but now Im not so sure. RAC didnt mention pulling the trans and they fixed it quickly. Now Im gonna look and make sure what they installed. Also I would be surprised the dealer would have agreed to pay if trans was removed. Surely RAC would have asked me if I wanted the clutch, RMS, or IMSB done while it was out?
http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...unt-detail.htm
Installing the new mount is easy. It's removing the old mount that's difficult as it requires a press of some sort......
#43
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Can someone spell out the process of replacing the old mounts with new stock mounts?
Do I have to put the car on 4 stands? Can I just raise the rear? Which bolts do I un-do first after supporting the engine?
Do I have to put the car on 4 stands? Can I just raise the rear? Which bolts do I un-do first after supporting the engine?
#44
Installing the new mounts can be a bit fussy if you don't have the engine lined up perfectly with the chassis so you might have to wiggle the engine a bit for the new engine mount bottom bolt to slide through the chassis.
I've done this a few times now where I got it under 15 min but even for my first time, I found it to be easy.
#45
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
All you need is a jack and a piece of 2x4 to support the engine via the oil pan and some hand tools to remove the airbox and unbolt the couple bolts holding on the air pump on the drivers side. No need to disconnect it. Just undo the bolts and swing it out of the way. Then start removing the engine mount bolts from bottom and top.
Installing the new mounts can be a bit fussy if you don't have the engine lined up perfectly with the chassis so you might have to wiggle the engine a bit for the new engine mount bottom bolt to slide through the chassis.
I've done this a few times now where I got it under 15 min but even for my first time, I found it to be easy.
Installing the new mounts can be a bit fussy if you don't have the engine lined up perfectly with the chassis so you might have to wiggle the engine a bit for the new engine mount bottom bolt to slide through the chassis.
I've done this a few times now where I got it under 15 min but even for my first time, I found it to be easy.
Can I jack/support the engine under the point everyone likes to use to lift the rear of the car?
Are the bottom bolts reachable without putting the car up on stands?