willwood trailer hitch install help
 

I will try to install the willwood hidden trailer hitch soon on my car

there is a part of the document that is very hard for me to understand if anyone can chime in that would be great.

the paragraph starting by 'the standard porsche(05-10)...

It says "replace them with willwood heavy duty bumper bracket"... I did not get a part with such name in my kit, so I wonder if he talks about replacing the bolts or if there is a special part I am missing...

one more thing, if someone has the drilling/cutting template.. I don't have that either :(

I think it should look like this in the end :)

I found out on willwood page
http://www.willwoodsystem.com/hitch.htm

it seems only model 05+ require the 'heavy duty bumper bracket'

does anybody knows what was the change ?

I found this image
http://www.planet-9.com/gallery/file...0/2/mounts.jpg

Is this what we are talking about ? may be one bracket is stronger than the other one ? I'd say the one on the right should be sturdier, no ?

I keep on answering myself with this thread
http://www.planet-9.com/cayman-boxst...ch-cayman.html

mike confirms the weak link is the new part is weaker and lighter, the older part (aka 'new mount' in the photo), is the one to get

this article has the parts number and all
http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/caym...den-hitch.html

It seems our cars until 2005 should have the older / stronger bumper shock absorber.

What are you going to tow?

I am planning on a small tire trailer for autocross, something quite light 700lbs max
250-300lbs trailer and 300lbs for tires and tools
a couple of guys have done this here on rennlist just not really well documented here I'll try to document mine a little better ;)

Are you hauling Hoosiers to the AX?

argh I wish :)

no nothing fancy, it is just that those sticky tires like toyo R888 or even michelin pilot sports heat cycle. So even if you don't wear them out that much, if you keep on driving them on the street the stickiness is gone after like 20 or 30 times you use them... crazy but true.
On top of that you want them inflated a different pressure, and it is a pain to have to inflate and deflate the tires 4 times a day each time you have an event.

Also I like to carry a bunch of tools just in case. it does fit perfectly well so far in my frunk but I'd rather have it all on a nice little trailer that I can just put aside when I go home and pick up when I need, instead of all the loading and unloading before each event.

not necessary but make life easier ;)

Try searching the GT3 boards. I thought I saw a posting over there - several guys have done it for hauling stuff to the track.

ok so I am at it.. but it is becoming harding than I thought.

First I wonder if I have the right part because the receiver hitch I have is not mounting vertically flush to the bumper metal beam.

Second about the wiring harness, I am trying to figure where I can find a good ground and positive switch input.. any ideas ? I don't want to run a cable all the way upfront to the battery :S

IMAGES:
- Car bumper less was super easy to remove.
- The old style bumper absorber
- the receiver slided in between heat shield and bumper beam (holes too high)
- the back of it showing it is flushed vertically
- the hitch pushed flushed horizontally
- the cut I had to make in the heat shield to be able to push the receiver tube into it.

For the power, I will certainly run a wire all the way in the front center console where I know there is switched power. I used to have my traqmate plugged there. I think it is a plug for optional telephone.

I am looking for places where I can tap my ground wire in the rear trunk area.

I know there is one on the right side of the rear wheel well, but it is a bit far. I am looking on the rear left side if possible :)

any ideas ?

Phil:

Question for you: are the brackets for the bumperetts bolted on or welded? I've thought about taking mine off for a european rear bumper but I'd want to be able to put them back on at some point.

Thanks!

It is not welded
But to access bolt you would have to remove the beam
I'll try to get you a picture tomorrow

For "camping" on track weekends.:thumbup:

+1 :)

Just missing AC for the florida weather but that is pretty close :)

but seriously something like that

https://rennlist.com/forums/attachme...s-_dsc4171.jpg

Looks trick.

I am still trying to find a place to get 12V power in the rest drunk area

No luck

Btw, sorry bumperette ARE rivetted , but should be possible to screw them back on when needed

ok I am moving forward the hitch is installed.

I spoke with Will where I bought the hitch and he confirmed that the L shape piece is not flush to the bottom of the bumper bar. So the trick is to drill the holes in the middle of the lower part of the bumper bar, per template.

* note that in the picture the template is taped to the upper part of the bumper beam just for my own reference, that holes have to be drilled on the bottom part. I hope this doesn't confuse anybody..

I took a picture at and angle so you can see that gap under the bumper bar, between the hitch receiver angled plate.

For the screws, instead of drilling two more holes to push them in. I used a craftsman telescopic magnet and it was a breeze to push them into the bumper bar and push them into the holes.

Those screws have a little piece of metal welded on top so that you can screw the nuts without having to hold the screw head, because there is no access behind the bumper bar.

For the wiring harness I located it right by the air pump and fished the wired into the left taillight housing using the manual release cable for the frunk.

I have not connected the harness yet because I still can't put my hand on a 12V power in this area.

I think I will tap into the main taillight wire and my harness will only be functional when I activate the running lights. I just hope there is enough power for the harness, anyways I'll tempt it, we'll see.

I'll post more pics once I have the bumper cut properly.

BTW I hope the cut I made in the head shield will not damage the bumper once it is back up.

That cut will let very hot air coming out at this precise location in the middle of the rear bumper. I just don't see how I can 'weld' the heatshield. Looks like aluminum. I can't do it.

I'd felt better if I had this sealed back, but it will have to do... I'll report later on that.

Its your car but WTF are you doing? Its not a pickup truck. Just saying, looks like your about to mess up. I dont think a Porsche is a good tow vehicle.

I am not planning on towing much. The weight of the trailer and the load will be like 400lbs max

150lbs for trailer and 200lbs for tires and tools, so when you think the trailer and its load rest on wheels, that is hopefully not much more than 50 to 100lbs resting on that bumper beam/tow hitch.

For those who wonder about the location of the hitch, keep in mind that the factory rear tow hook is place right on that bumper beam, so it has to be quite a strong location.

Nice project and write up Phil. We need to schedule a trip to Sebring this winter.

Clearly you have never seriously autocrossed or done a DE. A second set of rims is a must if you are going to be competitive, DE's are "not competitive" by insurance defintions.

I was able to put one rim in the front space on my '72 9111T and a second one on top of it. The other 2 rims would go in the back seats folded down. Those days are long gone with what Porsche has done to comply with Federal crumple zones.

If you have a short distance to go you can wedge one wheel in the front seat with a modern 911 but you have to be careful not to mar the interior. Same is true of the rear seat scenario because the rims have swollen from 15's with `185/60's to 18's with 295's on the rear.

When I go to Watkins Glen there are a TON of pickups with trailers loaded with P cars and tires. There are not too many Pcars with trailer hitches however. I see more trailer hitches at zone autocross type events.

Assuming the trailer is not overloaded you should have no problem what so ever.

Thanks for the picture, Phil.


On another note: Is Ben Choi back posting as KrazyK?

:thumbup:
Phil,
That is a good solution as to how to get track tires to DE!
Thanx for posting.

:cheers:

Great thread Phil.....I have been looking at this for sometime.

KK......there is more to Porsche ownership than humping your car's fender...:corn:

You sure? I thought that was why Porsche recommended vasoline for the old Fuchs.
philooo,
Get something like this, cut it to fit the cutouts, glue it on the hitch with silicone seal, and then wrap saftey wire around it and tie it off like a bread tie.
I had to use heat shield like this on my modified 1972's center panel to keep the paint from melting off.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/th...0/media/images

Thanks for all the support guys.

Thanks for the heat shield solution, I think I'll do it as I have the hi flow cars and they pump even more heat than the stock ones.

Once I have that setup I will finally be able not to waste my good tires on the roads !

That will be sumitomo hrtzIII everywhere aside if the track.

And yes Hardback, it will finally be worth it fit me to drive 3 hours to Sebring once I get the trailer ;)

The hitch install is very easy ...

Now if only someone can help me find a cool way to get 12V power in the rear without having to drag a wire all the way to the battery, that would be awesome.

12v power is there already. (do 99s have the jumper box? in pic with the + on it) But you want 12v switched. Just curious why? The stop and taillights will work off the left taillight.
I have a leftover 6"x9" piece of the aluminized cloth heat shield material that I used. If that much will do the job for you it's yours.

6x9 is more than I need ;)

A non switched power is ok as I think my wiring harness will turn itself on and off when needed only... Supposedly

But I tried, the hitch harness will not work at all if it does get 12v power .;(


Where do you find constant 12v in the rear ?

on my 03 it's under the black cover with the + on it. Its where they tell you to jump the car from. That and the bolt that holds the aircleaner box to the chassis. in post 31 pic.
PM your address and I will send the heat shield tomorrow.

Humm, I wonder but I have never seen that thing under my frunk... I have a 2003, may be it is different ?

I wonder if I should just wire as you say so the stop and tail light work of the left taillight, but I'd really like to have my turn signals :) I also prefer to use the special hitch harness, I assume it helps unload the tail lights circuits... or may be I am just putting too much faith on the wiring harness ...

But I have to admit the amount of wiring required for the small amount of time I will be towing may not be worth it.

FYI, that is the harness I bought
http://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies/...odule?id=13612

Philoo,
Thanks for posting this thread as I ordered the WilWood hitch just last week and will be going through this same job between now and April as I get ready for the 2013 DE season.
Keep up the good work!

It is in the engine compartment, passengers side.
Your harness is probably a four wire to three wire (with ground so 5 and 4)converter.
IE: From 3 separate lights Euro type; running, stop, turn, to 2 separate light US type; turn/stop, running.
You will have to pull the right turn signal wire from somewhere.

I haven't looked on the 996 but I bet you can open one of the wiring harnesses on the right of the engine compartment and find the wires that you need.
Ask on the GT3 forum. More guys have done the trailer hitch there.

yeah my harness is working with both euro and us type of cars. May be if I found a better harness for euro vehicules I would not even need for it to be powered. I'll start hunting on google :)

now that I am looking at those harness thing, I wonder if I even need a wiring harness box like I got, can I simply connect wired from the taillights directly to the hitch connector ?

Sorry about the dumb question but I am really not a trailer expert :S

That big box I bought might have just been made for more complex use of both US and Euro cars..?

If your trailer has one light on each side with one bulb (with two filiments 1 = stop & turn and 1 = running lights) you will need the converter. Your car has separate stop and turn bulbs. If you hook the turn signals up both of the trailer stop lights will blink when you put a signal on. The converter figures that out for you.

Another way to make things work is to add another light to each side of the trailer for turn signals and wire it direct without the converter.

I bet Porsche makes a converter/harness for the Cayenne. Maybe that could work for the 996 if you don't think your current one will.
Of course the Porsche one will have 25 more parts and cost 1 leg and 1/2 lung more. and you wil have to hire one extra acrobat and a contortionist to help mount it.

I am looking at changing my trailer light to have separate bulbs for turn and stop/tail

I assume I can't use LED or I will get even more trouble, right :) ?

You might have less trouble with LEDs on the trailer.
If you use the stock bulbs in the car and LED on the trailer you will not be adding much extra load to the system. The car's light nannies won't think there is a bulb out and the LEDs shouldn't add enough load for them to get in a snit and blow fuses or ...?

I just looked at the converter that you bought. From the literature it looks like it is the right unit for your car. Just pull the power from the + box in the engine compartment and follow the wiring instructions that come with it.

humm I might try to buy a LED tail light set for the trailer then.
That would be the easiest road for me by far. They seem to be cheap. Now I just need to find a good set with separate turn and brake/tail

Use the converter that you bought. It looks like it isolates the trailer power draw from the car's lighting system. That’s a good thing! You need to bring power, right, left, tail, and stop light signals to the converter. If you don't use the converter you will have still have to run wires to the trailer connecter to work all of the trailer lights.

Use rubber gromets if you are passing electrical wires through sheet metal.

cheers, Paul

Thanks Paul, I just bought a set at home depot yesterday. Right now I taped a few times around at that location but grommet is a must indeed or the cable will be cut over time I am sure.
I will post more pics once I have the harness installed properly.

I have finally wired the trailer hitch.

The first pic show the cables coming from the left of the trunk where the hitch 'box' is located by the air pump, going into the tail light housing via a small factory hole. I added a grommet for protection.

I was not ready to hard wire it all, so I decided to add a disconnection plug in between the box and the car harness.

Also I decided to split wires from the rear tail light instead of tapping in the car side harness. So if something get screwed up, I can remove it all nice and clean.

I used a cheap trailer plug for connection, that is all I could find at my local auto parts store.

I opened the cable for the split and soldered them, then use electrical tape. Might be overkill but I hate the plastic splitter connectors.

FYI:
Green is turn signal
Red is tail
Black is brake

Luckily there is enough space behind the tail light to hold the additional wires and the hitch plug.

My hitch 'box' being on the left side of the trunk I routed the positive battery cable from the left side to the right side of the trunk using the top engine bay shield (last pic). it flex just enough to allow a cable to be jammed in there, this way it goes all the way to the right side very close to the battery positive connector.

It took me forever to do this correctly but it is a clean job now.

philooo,

I need to wire up for a tire trailer, too. I have a 997.2
1--how is yours working?
2--did you use the converter kit that you showed in your post, or did you switch to something else?
3--did you end up using two lights per side of the trailer, or just one light per side?
4--where did you pick up your 12 volt power from?
5--please tell me anything else you can think of. You're the experienced pro now; see one, do one, teach one. I know nothing about this subject, since I have never had a trailer before, so anything you tell me will help.
Thanks,
Jim

Well, actually I see you answered most of these questions in the preceding post. Anyway, please advise me on anything you can think of that will help. I am no electrician!

1/ my system works fine
2/ I did use the converter I mentionned, uhaul stuff.
3/ I did not modify my trailer and kept the one light per side.
4/ I did pickup the 12V power from that terminal on the right side of the engine. still bums me not to have found a switched power. I hope the converter does its job and not comsume power when lights are not on.
5/ For me really the biggest thing was to tap in the rear tail light wire harness but with patience you can do it easily. I forgot If I posted the wire colors and their meaning or not. You can tell which wire is which by looking carefully what bulb they link to but it is much easier with the diagram.
I did not wanted to touch my right tail light, so at this time everything work but the right turn signal. I will use the trailer only to go to the track, I think I can make it by without one turn signal. it bothers me a bit but I want to keep the number of new wires to a minimum.

Once you get the proper wire harness from uhaul and made the decision to tap into the tail light harness everything make sense. I wish I could have found a better 'electric plug' to connect and disconnect the converter from the tail light harness, but the trailer plug works fine even though it is bulky it fits in the tail light location.

good luck with your install, report here is any problem, I'll be watching ;)

Philooo,
A couple of questions.
What did you use to cut the bumper to make room for the hidden hitch?
Where did you install/hide the trailer wiring electronic box that you got from U Haul?

I did put the uhaul electronic box right in front of the secondary air pump. the air pump mount is offering plenty of space to zip tie it.

To cut the bumper and the heat shield I used a dremel

My hitch install
 

Philoo,
Thanks to all your help, I completed my hitch install this weekend. I have included a few photos to show you a couple of the modifications to your work that I did. One, I found some flexible adhesive heat shield to apply to the stock heat shield cut, as I was worried about heat on the bumper during long weekend DEs. Second, I found an LED light magnetic telescoping holder that made the bolt install easier as you could see the light as it neared the drill holes. All in all it took me about 4 hours including the trailer harness. You will see the wiring harness sits neatly above the hitch in my setup.
I never could have done this without all of your help!!!:cheers::thumbup:

Excuse me, osteoman, it's philooo, not philoo. C'mon, details, man!
I also found philooooo's posts to be helpful.
One observation about fishing those bolts through the rear of the bumper:
I removed the metal bumper completely off the car in order to change those weak stock bumper supports to the older style, stronger "shocks." I had complete access to the rear of the bumper, so none of the "fishing" of those bolts, nor the metal tabs that are welded onto the bolt heads were necessary. Removing the bumper support was a breeze (two bolts). I guess you guys are not removing the bumper and replacing the bumper support "shocks"?
Also, I'd like to contribute my wiring "discoveries" to philo's instructions.
FOR MY 997.2 (hopefully, all 997.2's are same) :
The LEFT tail light wire harness plug that plugs directly into the left tail light has numbers stamped into it for each wire.
The brake light wire is black and yellow wire; the #1 pin on the plug.
The turn signal wire is black with grey stripe; the #4 pin on the plug.
The running (tail) light wire is grey with black stripe; #6 pin on the plug.
The RIGHT tail light wiring harness has to have the Green trailer wiring harness wire connected to the right TURN SIGNAL wire. This wire is the green and black wire; the #4 pin on the plug, on the RIGHT tail light.
Again, thank you phil000.

I am glad my post was helpful ;)

Can you guys post the way you connected to the positive battery wire ?

My connection is not that great so far. I was not able to unscrew the screw located in the engine compartment as it is super tight and I am afraid to apply more force to is as it looks strange and may have a special thing to it.

Please post pics of how you got your positive connection ;)

I read somebody's post where he hooked his 12 volt power wire to the alternator. The starter motor also gets direct power from the battery, and both the starter motor and alternator are right there in the engine compartment. I did no such simple and wise thing, 'cause it didn't occur to me. I ran the power wire all the way from the battery to the left rear of the engine compartment. I removed the undertrays underneath the car and zip tied the wire to all the other wires and lines that I found running under there. Be careful to keep all wires away from anything that gets hot. Sorry, no pics.

Hey Guys,
Am I missing something? My wiring kit from U-haul only required a negative ground and positve connections to the tail lights. It seems to work great and as my trailer is using LED lights the power drain is minimal when being used at best. As you can see in my pictures I just connected the ground and ran the one wire to the right side lights for right turns and the other 3 wires to the left side for everything else.

Philooo, sorry about the typo on your username, spelling was never my strongest subject in school. :roflmao:

Your wiring kit did not have a black main power wire???
Jeeez, that would have made it a lot easier!
I used a UHaul kit, too. The converter box and the wires look just like yours, except mine has a very long (10 or 12 feet long) thick, black power wire that the instruction said to hook to battery power.
Maybe your kit is meant to be used only with LED trailer lights which, as you said, do not draw much power. That would make sense. I never intended to use standard trailer lights, so I could have used your kit, or rather, I did not have to hook up that @%^**&%$ black wire in my kit. I'm feeling a little sick now.
Well, this is excellent info for the next guy.

Phil,

Did you get a new car?

no new car for me, I decided to keep the 996. Great deal for the money right now. Afraid of the dreaded engine grenade but I decided to stick with it. The chance of wrecking the car myself being a lot higher than blowing the engine anyways :)

I saw the red car in your avatar and thought you might have traded yours or had it painted.

nah just default avatar as I need to upload something new in there since my aerokit install
I debated highly to buy a 997.2, but decided not to. Tought decision that I am still debating :S
But I think I'll invest in my daily driver instead

Philooo,
Used my Willwood hitch this weekend on a trial run before my first DE this year and noticed that the pin that locks the car's hidden hitch to the hitch ball unit hits the bumper underneath after it passes through the hitch. After a test drive, I found that the vibration of the test drive pushed the pin up so that it was only engaged in the top of the unit where they mate. Did you find this as well, and how did you address it? It is so low, I am afraid any mod to the bumper will be seen below the plate when I am not towing. :confused:

when you say the pin hits the bumper underneath, I assume you mean it hits the plastic bumper cover, right ?

I have not check that part yet. I have been stranded with some house work and have not had time to try the setup for a long drive. I only made a few very short test runs.

I am curious to hear more about your situation. For me last time I checked there was space for the pin but I have to admit I did not take the time to look below the hitch asssembly to see how the pin was clearing out below.

Can you take a picture of your assembly top and bottom ?

I'd say the problem is the way the plastic bumper is installed, it can be adjusted a little bit, or may be the cut should be bigger. I am like you I made a very small cut where only the tip of the hitch assembly sticks out. We might need to go with the bigger hole to do a better safety and avoid problem like yours.

Hitch pin problem
 

Philooo,
Here are some pics of the problem, the short story is that the bottom of the locking pin hits the lower lip of my bumper and actually pushes the pin back up with driving vibrations. To remove the part of the bumper to make room for the pin will leave a gap that can be seen when not using the hitch. My only idea is to cut the pin as close to the lock ball (see pic) as I can to avoid this problem. Do you have any ideas and have you seen this on your car? :confused:

I am traveling but I can already tell you that on my car the pin is going in, behind the plastic bumper. I mean I have to angle it to get in the hole and then with a single finger I push it down because it is so much recessed

I will check again but your bumper is a lot more flush to the car body than on mine

I have to add that my bumper was a bit too far away from the body when I reinstalled it the first time around

I did unscrew the rear bumper screws to make it more flush, pushing toward the car as much as I could but still I don't think my hitch stick out as much

The bumper can be manually adjusted a bit, but I am not sure why yours is so much more flush than mine

May be the bumper bar actually play a role there

It could be that my car was hit or something , I mean at low speed and may be my boer absorber a little bit recessed

I'd love to hear other users chime in on this topic

I loosened the top and bottom screws on the bumper, and also pushed the lower bumper as far forward as possible, then tightened it all back down, and that created just enough room for the pin. I am now good to go! :thumbup:

Glad you solved it

Please post a picture of the new clearance

I may sell my un-mounted Willwood receiver if I go the roof rack route. PM me.

keep us posted on the roof rack route, I think it is a very good route.
you can put the toolbox in the car and tires on the roof

problem #1 with roofrack -> you have to unmount it each time you are at the track and the roof rack I wonder how easy it is to mount and unmount.

Here are a quick picture with the trailer in place.

you can't even feel it behind the car.

great setup to take tires or more with you.

Well done!

Anyone have a copy of the manual?
The website seems to have downsized...

Also, any idea how much this would cost for labor?
Thanks

Here's mine.

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...a/DSC_0099.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...a/DSC_0003.jpg

http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/j...a/DSC_0007.jpg

Great thread !

there was very little documentation as to how to place the hitch.
I'll see if I can find and scan mine but I don/t think I still have it.

It is pretty straight forward, the only thing I missed was the template to drill the bumper but really you can do it yourself easily

1/remove the bumper
2/take the hitch and place it right in the middle of the bumper bar, and center to the lower bumper bar and mark the drilling location
3/drill
4/put the bolts in. here you need the special bolt that have the ergo on them so you can tight them without them turning in the back. If not you have to remove the bumper bar.
6/cut your bumper in the center of the police tag location. you can cut a small piece in the center then cut larger once the bumper is on. use a blade to cut the abs, just go over your cutting line many times and it cut nice and clean.
7/ wire the hitch plug, check my previous posts.

a shoot can do it in 4 to 8 hours max. But it is a liability for them, not sure who will do it for you.

Thanks to all who helped me out with my questions.
Big thanks also to Will from Willwood systems who provided me with extra parts at no charge when the used kit I got had missing pieces.
If anyone's curious, it took my shop about 3.5 hrs of labor to install. = $350.
In the end, I had a happy family autox!
http://crisostomo.com/images/hitch1.jpg

Thanks for all the great info in this thread.
I made up a hitch last weekend. Ordering the wire conversion box now.
I used a DT ball mount. A key retracts the pins. No need for pin access.
I also drilled through the entire bumper. I used long bolts, no need for fishing the short ones through the holes.

2003 996

dtball mount to avoid the use of the pin and drilling through the bumper you are one smart mechanic ;)

and respect for the cut in the bumper, I did not know it could be done so neat !

..I thought I had done a clean install, but you beat me to it ;)

can you post picture of your wiring system, I am curious to see how the pro do it :)

congrat'

I finally got around to wiring my 996 for trailer lights, but somehow I messed it up.
do I have to wire both tail lights?
currently I wired only my driver left tail light. although both lights come on at night, only the left turn signal works, and only the right brake light works.
any ideas?

yes you have to wire both taillight.
personally to keep things simple I only wired the left turn signal
in case of emergency you can just use the emergency blinker and both tail will flash.
Around here nobody uses blinkers anyways.
I just wanted to keep wire to a minimum so I only wired the left side.

After all I think it would have been better on the right side as this is where the positive cable goes and there is plenty of empty space on the right side.

Stupid question, but which wire or wires do I have to wire to get my other turn signal working?
Thanks!

wires should be labeled , and one should be the right turn signal
you only need to have one wire going to the other tail light. and tap it into the turn signal wire.

Bringing this back from the dead.

Which DT ball mount are you guys using? I can only find the larger 2" Class 4 ones that use a horizontal locking pin.

The Willwood hitch needs the smaller 1.25" hitch with vertical locking pin.....

And also bringing it back from the dead thanks to SportTows now selling this product.

Has anybody had any luck recently installing a hitch wiring harness into a 996 or 997? I run a 996 4S and am trying to determine what parts I'll need to build up a system for controlling the lights on a jetski trailer.

I installed my hitch and wiring harness last winter. Everything was fine, I just followed the instructions I found on Rennlist

awesome. Any tips for the soon-to-be trailer equipped 996 owner?

also do you happen to recall which harness you purchased? I see a couple different uhaul and etrailer options previously mentioned.

Can't help ya there. I bought my hitch used and it came with the harness