03996

Great info and link! Thanks man!

SSST

Turbos are AWD. Same system as the C4S.

03996

The dealer has dropped the belly pans and checked out all the apparent components without finding any play. This is good and bad news, imo. Good in that there's nothing apparently wrong with those components, bad in that perhaps the problem, if there is one, lies on the interior.

The Service Adviser mentioned that he thought perhaps there might be a problem with the pressure plate.......not providing immediate and clean separation I guess?? The clutch on my car is in fact a lot heavier than the clutch on a 2002 C2 I drove while at the dealership this week. Is the clutch on the C4 supposed to be heavier than on the C2 model?

Also, how difficult is it for the home mechanic to replace the clutch themselves? I do have the garage space and a two post life. Also have worked on and restored many cars over the years, but this is the first time I've ever owned a Porsche and NEVER worked on one.

I'll bring the thoughts of the cardan shaft and bearing to the attention of the dealership.

Once again, thanks for all the help and good advice!

Best

Les.

fpb111

Just as easy as most other cars. Do a search for IMS replacement threads.
You need to support the engine as the trans mount acts as one end of the engine mounts.
Here is one:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...s-bearing.html

The clutch should be as easy as C2. Some reasons for heavy clutch are:
Worn disk changes the geometry of the clutch fork assy increasing force required to press clutch in.
Broken/removed helper spring (clutch pedal shaft - small can above your foot)
Long story about clutch helper spring
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...matically.html

03996

Thanks! I took a look at the link re clutch assist spring. The word "heavy" as it relates to the required pedal pressure........subjective I guess. I think the pedal pressure on my car is heavy enough without maing it more so. I can feel a certain "squishy-ness" when using the clutch pedal. I now think it's the spring making some noises etc. Might try to get under there and take a look to see if it's broken!

Looks like removing the bits and pieces to replace the clutch isn't that bad at all, but I agree, bit of a nightmare without some way of getting the car well off the ground. Oh boy, how that brings back memories of scrambling about under cars using only ramps when chaging out clutches......back in the day when I just about had a pot to pee in, but not much more.

Thanks for the help and guidance.

Les.

Macster

Can't jhelp you with the clutch question. I've never done a clutch in any of my Porsches and so far neither the Boxster (256K miles) nor the Turbo (92K miles) have required a clutch. When (if) a car requires one since I have nowhere to work on my cars, do not have the proper equipment anymore and so on, I'm just going to let the dealer's service department replace the clutch.

My WAG (based on what I've read here by those that have done it themselves is that the job is not that hard a job, but you want to be sure you have the best DIY and have the proper equipment.

For instance when my Turbo's 6-speed transmission was being replaced the tech supported the engine with a special engine stand while the car was on the lift and at a comfortable working height too.

The support wants to be very reliable and secure. At the dealer there's no risk but at home, have an excited dog run into the support and knock it out from under the car....there could be expensive repercussions.

Oh, I took my Turbo out the other day and after the drive train was fully up to operating temp I managed to get a bit of a clunk (not that bad though, thank goodness) by in 1st or 2nd accelerating the car up to around 2K and then quickly releasing the gas pedal, then reasonably quickly again pressing down on the pedal.

The knock is I suspect arises from the clearances that are present. I never drive my car this way though on purpose, save this time of course, but once in a great while while I just get just sloppy with the clutch/pedal and hear a faint clunk from I suspect the drive train gear lash.

As I was driving the car before and during and after this I was thinking to myself that I strive -- it comes almost second nature to me I guess for I do not think I consciously think about this constantly while driving -- to be gentle/smooth with the car and its controls.

Sincerely,

Macster.

redridge

just throwing this out there, but loose drop links and sway bars can cause clunking from stop to moving... simple to just tug on the links and bars for the hell of it.

03996

Thanks for abusing your car Macster in the pursuit of trying to help me!! Your experience is almost exactly like mine.

Since conversing with you guys I've been changing gear further up the range.....3k and above.....99% no clunks when doing this and I think the remaining 1% is likely due to my being overly sensitised to it and perhaps hearing things that under any other circumstances, I would not.

Once again people, I sincerely do appreciate your help and indulgence of this newbie.

Best Regards

Les.

fpb111

One other thing that can give a clunk is a worn/deteriorating trans mount. You would get that clunk every time you let up on the gas and stepped on it again. Not just on gear changes.

03996

I wondered about that too, but the dealer said they checked and all was in order.

Thanks for the input!

Les.