oil pan removal - do I need new gasket ? oiled ? dried ?
 

I have a little leak on my oil pan, around a screw. I will tight it up and see if that solves it.

But in case I need to remove the oil pan, can I simply re-use the current gasket ? Or do I need to buy a new one before putting it back ?
Any need for special sealant to be applied on the gasket ?
Should I clean and dry the gasket before putting it back or should I oil it up when putting it back ?

I am a newbie when it comes to gasket stuff.

There's not a traditional cork or rubber gasket.

It's just a bead of flange sealant. Drei bond or Loctite 5900 to be more precise. Applied in the correct quantity and location.

You remove the old silicone "gasket" material with acetone/paint thinner/cloth and if you're good at it use a razor blade.

Sounds harder than it is, unless of course you apply too much silicone and it breaks off inside and clogs important oil passageways.

argh.. there is an art behind it then..damned.... :(
I'll see if tightening the screw will do the trick.

No art, but use Loctite 5900 or Drei Bond sparingly and be meticulous in cleaning the surfaces on the cover and crankcase. Torque= 7.5 ft lbs. I also cleaned the threads on the bolts

You want a 1.5mm wide bead of the sealant and you want to apply uniform pressure when making the initial connection. I took four bolts and took their heads off to use as studs so I could align the pan correctly and press it up in a smooth motion. After some initial scraping, I found a blue scotchbrite sponge/pad to be the best at removing the old material. It left a clean surface without removing the casting marks. Having a clean, dry surface to bond to is critical for a good seal.

PS-I doubt tightening the bold will do anything..other than maybe stripping the threads.

Guys, I'm also a new proud Porsche Carrera owner.

And I also need to replace the oil pan gasket. I'm still wondering if taking off the oil pan bottom cover needs any additional equipment to be removed or it's just the oil pan bolts and bingo.

Bingo. Big flat pan to catch the drips is nice.

Remove the screws and you are done BUT be careful when you put them back the torque is extremely small, forgot but like 12lbs or something. Literally less force than what your pinkie can do. Have a torque wrench ready to avoid damaging the threads.

There are some videos on YouTube that show the bead being applied so you can get an idea for reference. I know Jake Raby had one showing the install of the oil pan baffle kit which showed him applying the sealant I believe.

Yep, I used Jake's method in this video with the Loctite 242 when I put my FVD deep sump on. You don't want to squeeze a bunch of excess sealant into the oil sump area when you tighten it up.

Here's the vid:

loctite 242 or 5900? 5900 is not so easy to find at the FLAPS

HELL NO 7.5 ft. pounds! and any name brand silicone sealer will work fine. Also good to remove the oil plate just to see what might be in there.


This response is in refence to the error in post # 8

Honda sells a special silver heavy duty sealer that works awesome for all the AL engines...
Its specifically oil tolerant for valve covers. front cover and oil pan on their cars/bikes..
"Honda Bond"

VTEC bond?
Plus 5 HP?
;-)

LOL thats funny.. Yea its good stuff, it dries "harder" than the standard silicone and the
real upside is it scrapes off easily when you remove the part. Si far knock on wood its
worked awesome on my Bike and my jeep thermostat housing which was always a leak problem..