jsoderbe

Hi,

I think I searched and read all different kind of problems with convertible tops, except my problem; the frame is actually broken, on the left side of the car, where the frame is bolted in the chassis!

I bought it with the top up, and the PO said the top was broken, so I can't really be mad at him. However I got the top moving, and everything works exept that I have to raise the actual top manually. It fits as it should, so I didn't spot the broken frame until I attempted to check the hydraulic fluid level.

Question is, what have caused this? On my -86 911 convertible the frame snapped when the wire to the motor broke, causing the motor to only raise one side. It broke instantly, like it was made of paper....

I don't want to weld this up, just to break it in another place!

I have a 2000 996 Convertible. Any advice on what might have caused this, and how to fix it, would be very appreciated!


Thanks,

Johan

fpb111

Maybe one of the tensioning cables broke/came loose and caused it to stress/break the frame?
You can see and disconnect them for access to the rear shelf area by putting the top in the service position and reaching under the rear sail area to unsnap the socket(s), on the cable, from the ball(s), on the car.

washington dc porsche

I would suspect that he opened or closed the top while driving too fast or something fell on it while it was opening or closing(like a garage door).

jsoderbe

Hi,

last week I finally got the car over here. It has several issues, most I knew of before I bought it, some not....

Anyway, now I have been able to get some pictures of the convertible top:

This is the broken brackets I mentioned earlier. These are the one holding the rear part of the convertible top, with the rear window:



As you can see it is broken in the exact same way, under the bolt that holds the frame to the bracket. This is very strange, since I imagine that part of the top doesn't weigh that much. Any ideas what might have caused this?

Then there is a screw missing:


Not sure if you can see it in the picture, but there is supposed to be a screw there holding the rear part and the main top frame together.

And, I also have the issue that the convertible top light is on, and flashing. Plus, I can't hear the hydraulic engine move. I took a picture of the reservoir, but to me it is impossible to see if there is hydraulic oil in it or not. I don't know if the oil is colored or completely transparent! Is there a fill line at the X in Max?



Here is a close-up, but from this angle it looks like the reservoir is completely full:



And, the hydraulic cylinders are sticky from oil, and under the reservoir there are enough oil that I get some on my fingers.

Is there anyone who have a pic where you clearly can se the fill line in the reservoir? Couldn't find that when I searched....

If there is enough oil in it, how do I check the hydraulic motor? Here is a pic of that one:



Reason I ask is that is is kind of corroded, and then there is the fact that I can't hear a sound from it, not at any time during the up and down cycles for the roof (obviously I raise the actual top by hand, all other things are working).

Please let me know where to start. I don't want to re-weld the frame brackets, just to break the top in another place when I get the hydraulics to work again....

Any help would be very appreciated!


Thanks,

Johan

Reborn996

Could you just source a new top (frame and all) from a junkyard? Might be easier than trying to repair this one and I have heard not too bad as a DIY since it is bolt in. As part of the process you might even be able to get the pump with it. Just an option to consider...

jsoderbe

Hi, thanks, but the repairs are really not a big deal. $100 for the welding is the worst part. But, I dont want it break in another place once repaired....


Regards,


Johan

Reborn996

Well, if welding is what you want to do okay... but in order to break that part it required a lot of force which may have messed up the rest of the top frame too (twisted it). Should be interested to see if just welding it fixes the problem for the long term. Fingers crossed for you...

aviography

As well the cross section of the break suggests this is a cast part, it may not be as easy to weld or braze the broken parts together, plus there is the chance some material "stretch" has occured in the cracked area so it may not come back together properly.

jsoderbe

Hi,

I have welded porsche top frames before, with excellent results. The advantage with the cheaper cast aluminum is that its not that flexible, meaning it breaks when its load limit is exceeded.

Also, the top fits perfectly, and opens/closes manually without resistance. Except the rearmost part, that is broken. Still fits, though.

So, just to recap my questions:

- What might have caused the frame to break?
- Is there a fill line in the reservoir or i it empty?
- How can I make sure the hydraulic motor is working properly?


Thanks,

Johan

fpb111

1. ?
2. unscrew the filler screw (that looks like it in the pic) and see if it is full.
3. Check the fuse, pull the connecter and apply power, if it runs check the fuses, switch on the handbrake. (brake needs to be on to operate top)

jsoderbe

Thanks Frank! Excellent, I will get to that during the weekend!


Regards,

Johan

timmhaines

Same thing happened to my 996 tt cab2004, Had to replace it, seems top latch didn't release. Couldn't even open it manually.

Hurdigurdiman

For what it's worth. I have a 99 cab. In the manual it does say that if the owner resorts to actually raising the top manually via the crank method from behind the rear seats, then under no circumstances should the top be tried again via the dash switch or key in drivers door method UNTIL the top has been recalibrated at a PORSCHE shop. It could be that a PO tried to open the top electrically after an emergency manual closing and consequently the front hook did not release from the windscreen but other parts of the top went into their cycle and in doing so snapped the arm on one side. Not that it really matters now that the arm is broken but maybe that's how it broke. To release the top latch on the 99 model, I can remove the right side plastic plate at the side of the hook and manually unlock the hook. It explains how to do that in the owners manual via a small alan key. A thin bladed screw driver work's just as well. I know all this because I have had problems with my cabriolet top over the last 2 and a half years of ownership. I have solved all of them via the trial and error method. BTW I have never had to remove the rear seats back to close the top manually or had to top up hydraulic levels ever. I have had it in service mode times without number and the rear window sill removed for better inspection of the working of the top. I have not sprayed any oil on any working joints of the top but I have sprayed WD 40 into the hook area and used o ring grease around the three slots at the top of the windscreen. Right now the top is working perfectly (touch wood) fingers crossed. I have never had to replace a micro switch. Mainly arms coming loose loosing split washers on the side of the hood. Mechanical failures rather than electrical.

timmhaines

That makes sense, when mine did not open, upon removing the back panel the emergency allen bolt was laying down below, it was completely detached, this seems to be what caused the latches not to release as the gear had to be replaced. I am pretty sure it was cuased by the locks not releasing due to the drive gear in the lock latch motor being shot, stopping the arm and causing the struts to snap the bracket instead.

DeWolf

I read that in the manual as well and thought it was crap. Mine is an '01 and the top wouldn't come back up. No oil in the pump. I had to raise it with the handle, filled the pump, let it prime a few times using a 12V alarm battery connected straight to the pump and used the switch again no problems. That was over 3 weeks ago and I use the top at least a couple of times everyday and no issues at all.