Making 9611 Cam Holding Tool
06-05-2011, 01:48 PM
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Doug has been a great help so far... and can certainly thank him! I think I've seen what he used though for this particular tool and while it is functional, I was looking to make something a little more elegant (like the pics in the original post). I know I can make it once I've got the covers off, but am trying to be a step ahead of that.
Really just the cam diameter might be enough, I might be able to surmise the bolt spacing & size from the covers.
Really just the cam diameter might be enough, I might be able to surmise the bolt spacing & size from the covers.
06-05-2011, 01:53 PM
#4
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
well if you can fab up something to hold the ends in place you can just measure the rest and make them on the fly...
it doesnt have to be perfect to work, its only holding them in pace while the work is being done...I forget on the 3.4 is there one set of clamps NOT hooked to the valve cover? Also RE elegant.. its a good idea, do you have a machine?
it doesnt have to be perfect to work, its only holding them in pace while the work is being done...I forget on the 3.4 is there one set of clamps NOT hooked to the valve cover? Also RE elegant.. its a good idea, do you have a machine?
06-05-2011, 02:03 PM
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Yeah I am thinking along the same lines that it can be done in the fly, but am trying to make a Sunday project while I wait for some parts to come in next week and while I have access to a drill press.
I've actually read where some people have had the cams out without using 9611, and just using 9634.
I'm done with the 9634 tool to hold the ends (Saturday's project).
I've actually read where some people have had the cams out without using 9611, and just using 9634.
I'm done with the 9634 tool to hold the ends (Saturday's project).
06-05-2011, 08:35 PM
#6
Drifting
Logray
So you don't think my Flat aluminum bars with cloth underneath are elegant enough. I am so insulted that I almost went out to the garage to sulk. But what the heck I guess I will be magnanimous. I measured the bearing journals on an extra set of 3.4 cams that I have and they measure 26mm, or within a couple hundreds of that. I would make them a couple of hundredths big to avoid any damage to the bearing surfaces.
OK, now I am going to go out and sulk
So you don't think my Flat aluminum bars with cloth underneath are elegant enough. I am so insulted that I almost went out to the garage to sulk. But what the heck I guess I will be magnanimous. I measured the bearing journals on an extra set of 3.4 cams that I have and they measure 26mm, or within a couple hundreds of that. I would make them a couple of hundredths big to avoid any damage to the bearing surfaces.
OK, now I am going to go out and sulk
06-05-2011, 09:26 PM
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
HAH. 
Well I didn't want to insult pure unadulterated genius, but now that you've invited it.
While you're busy sulking I'm going to post a pic of your ghetto hold down tool.
(thanks for the measurement BTW).
Well I didn't want to insult pure unadulterated genius, but now that you've invited it.While you're busy sulking I'm going to post a pic of your ghetto hold down tool.
(thanks for the measurement BTW).
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06-05-2011, 10:36 PM
#8
Drifting
Not bad enough to just insult me, now you have to embarrass me!! I have a friend that just bought his own CNC machine. I am going to ask him to make both a set of these and the hold down tool for the end of the cams.
But I have to say that the crude version did work.
But I have to say that the crude version did work.
06-05-2011, 10:51 PM
#9
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Now that you mention that I would probably be willing to buy something made off a CNC or SLA rapid prototype machine... but why do that when you can make your own tool?
I agree the bar is very functional, and I'll probably end up doing the same thing due to time constraints.
Maybe then we can be "bar buddies".
I agree the bar is very functional, and I'll probably end up doing the same thing due to time constraints.
Maybe then we can be "bar buddies".
06-05-2011, 11:22 PM
#10
Parts Specialist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
SLA wont work because the media is too brittle, it breaks...I see it all the time when making replaces for the SLA parts my company "thought would work"
BTW - damn good Doug!
BTW - damn good Doug!
06-05-2011, 11:28 PM
#11
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Yeah you're probably right about SLA unless you later cast a metal part using the mold, but when you see this (courtesy Wayne @ Pelican):
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._med/Pic03.jpg
"the the plugs removed, now install the camshaft timing tool, P253 onto the end of the camshaft. Normally, you would use Porsche tool 9624 to hold the camshafts onto the end of the motor (see Photo 3 of Pelican Technical Article: Boxster Engine Teardown), but I found that the camshaft timing tool also pretty much did an adequate job of holding them in place as well. While I personally have most of the tools listed as required in the Porsche factory manuals, I like to try to recommend places where they may not be 100% absolutely necessary. This is one of those cases: use the P253 tool instead."
Why use 9611 when you have plenty of 9624/9634's in the bank. $$$$$$$$$
Ok this thread is going nowhere quickly. HAH.
[I agree Doug's tool is genius, just not elegant (sincerely)].
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti..._med/Pic03.jpg
"the the plugs removed, now install the camshaft timing tool, P253 onto the end of the camshaft. Normally, you would use Porsche tool 9624 to hold the camshafts onto the end of the motor (see Photo 3 of Pelican Technical Article: Boxster Engine Teardown), but I found that the camshaft timing tool also pretty much did an adequate job of holding them in place as well. While I personally have most of the tools listed as required in the Porsche factory manuals, I like to try to recommend places where they may not be 100% absolutely necessary. This is one of those cases: use the P253 tool instead."
Why use 9611 when you have plenty of 9624/9634's in the bank. $$$$$$$$$
Ok this thread is going nowhere quickly. HAH.
[I agree Doug's tool is genius, just not elegant (sincerely)].
06-30-2011, 10:41 PM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I made the tool long before I had the car on jack stands.
That is M8 hardware inside the cam end. The hex end is important so that it won't go "inside" the expansion plugs and damage them. The Porsche tool looks similar according to the work shop manual. Apparently Jake likes to remove those and tap and thread them with new plugs. (although if you live in Canada or Alaska at -40 below and your car is outside, I think I might want an expansion plug over a threaded loctited one????).
I do have drawings however I decided to remeasure and make my own.
The bar is 1/4" X 1" aluminum bar, cut to 5 & 3/4" long.
The angle bar is 1/8" x 2" x 2" aluminum.
The cam end holes are 4.44" center to center, placed in the center of the bar.
In my tool, the outside face of the angle aluminum lines up exactly with the center of the cam ends.
All of the holes are tapped and the hardware is at least 10.9 grade or higher.
There is a specific "depth" in the work shop manual for the hex bolts into the cam ends (important that the holes in the aluminum are tapped so you can make adjustments), so that they don't press against the cam plugs too much and cause damage (and a blown plug).
There are other ways to make this tool though...
That is M8 hardware inside the cam end. The hex end is important so that it won't go "inside" the expansion plugs and damage them. The Porsche tool looks similar according to the work shop manual. Apparently Jake likes to remove those and tap and thread them with new plugs. (although if you live in Canada or Alaska at -40 below and your car is outside, I think I might want an expansion plug over a threaded loctited one????).
I do have drawings however I decided to remeasure and make my own.
The bar is 1/4" X 1" aluminum bar, cut to 5 & 3/4" long.
The angle bar is 1/8" x 2" x 2" aluminum.
The cam end holes are 4.44" center to center, placed in the center of the bar.
In my tool, the outside face of the angle aluminum lines up exactly with the center of the cam ends.
All of the holes are tapped and the hardware is at least 10.9 grade or higher.
There is a specific "depth" in the work shop manual for the hex bolts into the cam ends (important that the holes in the aluminum are tapped so you can make adjustments), so that they don't press against the cam plugs too much and cause damage (and a blown plug).
There are other ways to make this tool though...
