Dryslick13

Interested in a car that had the motor replaced under factory warranty in 06. I would assume that the RMS and IMS issues are nothing to worry about. How about the cranks? Any other things that could go wrong with them? Replacement motor has about 35K miles on it since put in. Will be doing a PPI on it.

ivangene

motors fail for various reasons - the entire thing is replaced....you should have no worries on the new motor regarding things that might have happened on the old one....

That said its still a motor and subject to use, wear and tear, and the list of normal issues with the exception of I believe the later blocks have a lower D chunk failure (crack cyinder walls) - the new motor is a complete unit, new (or reconditioned) EVERYTHING - I think having the choice I would look for one with a replaced motor - just my .02

tooloud10

My reman engine has been in my car for about six years and 15k miles now with absolutely no problems.

TRT41

^^^totally agree, I'd first look for a car with a factory replaced motor to use as a daily driver or track car.

ivangene

Phil? is that you ?

Barn996

That would be too many miles for Phil.

tooloud10

Hey, I resemble that remark!

dresler

he's too busy restoring #12 to drive..

C4CRNA

I think you can still have RMS IMS issues with a reman/refurb motor.

Macster

The remanufactured engine might have some improvement in the IMS area but Porsche never came up with a air-tight fix for this.

Well, check that. It did. It offered a new engine redesigned with no IMS.

The IMS can fail, if it is going to fail, at any time but the fact the engine has delivered 35K miles of trouble free service suggests the engine is as healthy as it can be.

Cranks can fail, heck anything in the engine can fail, but almost none do.

Best thing you do is give the engine a good check over.

I've covered this before, so I'll be brief (as I can...) but with engine cold, A/C off, verify all dash/warning lights (especially the CEL!) come on then go off as you turn the key from on to start.

The engine should crank good and fire right up. You might hear a bit of valve clattter, chain noise, but the noise should not be that loud and should not last more than just a few instants after start.

The engine should idle reasonably well though high, above 1K rpms. The engine should smooth out and the idle decrease as the engine gets warm.

While the engine idles, walk around the car listening for any odd sounds.

Once the engine has gotten pretty warm have the seller take you for a test ride. Have him demo the car/engine's behavior in a variety of situations from city stop/go driving to med-speed and high speed (highway speed) cruising.

Have him run up through a few gears.

The engine should idle smooth, pull good from low rpms to redline and do this a couple of times in a row.

Back at the starting point listen again to the engine. If quiet you take the car out on a test drive following the same route, driving the car the same way.

Once back after the test drive, if all is well, then you can check out the rest of the car. It is a used car so a good thorough used car check out is called for.

Then if you think you can swing a deal for the car, have it subjected to a PPI. Among other things, this should include a readout of the engine's overrev counters and a drop of the oil filter and a check of the oil filter housing oil and the filter.

The filter should be replaced with a new one and a new o-ring used. The oil level should be topped up with the proper oil to bring the oil level up to where it was before.

There is no guarantee the engine now healthy will remain so forever. But you can go a long ways to having a healthy engine long after you have bought the car by ensuring the car has a healthy engine before you buy the car.

Sincerely,

Macster.
Sincerely,

Macster.