My best and admittedly not very helpful advice is to locate the online 996 factory manual in PDF format. There was a site in the UK that had these available for downloading.

There are at least two volumes (files) that I think you'd find helpful.

996 Group 1 Engine to 13.pdf (size 60,040KB)
996 Group 1 Engine from 15.pdf (size 93,608KB)

I have both but the first one is damaged and Adobe Reade won't open it. And since I don't have a 996 (I have a Boxster and a Turbo and have similar PDFs for both of these engines) I never bothered to try to get an undamaged copy.)

They are both in english (english I'm sure translated from German).

Sincerely,

Macster.

This is what Macster refers too

http://www.cannell.co.uk/Manuals.htm

A little background information, the shaft between the piston and crankshaft has bearings where the shaft goes to the crank and the piston head. Every place that crank comes into contact with the engine has bearings. If you reused the old bearings each and every one has to go back in their same exact location with the oil passage ligned up so that oil can flow to the rest of the engine. If one is blocked due to a bearing spinning then flow might be bad for others depending on that chanel of oil flowing. Cam and bearing lube for installing these parts has to used or the bearing when starting the engine dry of oil might spin which as you have already seen the holes in those bearing after spinning wont have the oil passages lined up which will block the oil flow and kill the engine again. I'm saying this because it appeared you are on the second rebuild and double checking things you are doing. The greasy cam lube thats normally white has to be used and each reused bearing has to go back into its original locations and alignment. If any of them had spun already then its replace all the bearings to keep the crank balanced. Putting old bearing back in not in their original locations even more so unbalances the crank and has hot spots from mismatched previously broken in contours high and low spots ie poor oil flow and bang another failure.

Your tightening torques and procedures. Not all models of engines have the same tightening toques. Make sure you have the right information for what the tightening toques are for the engine you have. Check the serial number and other numbers for which model it is.
PAY GOOD ATTENTION TO THIS NEXT COMMENT.
When using a torque wrench you ONE TIME go to the click or spot on the gauge and that is it. NO DOUBLE CLICKING, TRIPLE CLICKING OR MORE, or your engine is going to be all screwed up. Torque wrenchs if going to the break point again where you get the click will apply too much pressure. They are just that way even though if you don't know how to properly operate a torque wrench you would think its going to the same exact break point. IT IS NOT. One click only, and one time only to pressure of torque on a bar reader style. It's also good to use a lube designed for bolts being torqued plus to have the sufaces clean. Read up on the proper use of a torque wrench and you should be good.

The picture I'm posting is to give you an idea of why to make sure you are getting the proper model engine parts. Things change in there.

For now that's about the most important things I can think of that would make a rebult engine end up breaking the crankshaft.

Best of luck and happy days should be out there after this lousy period.

There is a great set of videos on youtube for assembling Porsche engines:

http://www.youtube.com/user/glenn986s#p/u/3/-8PI2cCmvqU

thank you all for trying help me and spending time for looking of any information for my problem.hope some time to be able to payback all these.i appreciate very much your efort.thanksMacster,Pete and pac996.i will try to get a look on that manuals.

Sincerly,
Alex

hello pac again,

i was reading what you are trying to tell me there but first i need to tell you that the axle or the crank how is named,...i measured it and when i saw that is not streight i have changed it with new one,also the bearings, i replaced them all with new,because were afected.I looked in the piston block and there are not any tails of scratch so the pistons are ok and the block the same.i saw that in the pictures were changed some parameters but in my case i am not sure that is necesary because the block is like new...not even a scratch so the piston is like new too...the car wasn't runed too long with low oil to damage these parts...and the other problem and the dificult one to locate the problem for the first time were that the engine worked perfectly and sounded perfectly...no sound beats in it or things like this.First time all the mechanics where i went told me that should be the oil sensor problem because the engine sounds great.they told me that if were something wrong with the LINE when i push it to 8000 rpm the engine should make a very big and strange noise but mine worked like net.the problem was that when it starts to heat when i let it at 800rpm the light start to appear.OIL PRESSURE TOO LOW.and agian and again and again.The light turned off only when i accelerate a little.so changed the sensor and i realised that not the sensor was the problem.i went to porsche service and they told me that i need a new engine.So i told to my self that i need to try to fix it because a new engine is 30000$.i called this friend of mine that maked his own boxter engine and he told me that will help me to fix it so he changed all that parts and we need now to know how to set up this distribution...long story :(

i will read that manuals and try to finish this problem onces for ever.

Thanks,
Alex

I deal with a worldwide customer base daily.. It can be challenging, but we are effective. His writing and wording reminds me of a customer I supplied an engine to in Russia a few months ago. with that person we found that Google translator worked much better for communication than him trying to write in English..

I'd suggest posting this to Google translator and then see what we come up with. It sounds like he is having cam timing issues.

yes you have right i don't don't know very good english technical terms,but i think you have understood the problem.i need to know the position of the cams.

thank you

This is proly the best you are going to get. Can you read english?

If not the manuals may be a problem for him

Good luck with the rebuild.

If you have not yet, it's very important to find the problem with low oil pressure before you fully assemble the motor. It could be porosity in the case casting where an oil passage is. Maybe a pressure fed bearing with too much clearance, or a compromised oil pump, faulty pressure relief valve or other issue.

Wondering how could you spin this motor to 8000 rpm with electronic rev limiter?

I looked in the engine and the problem of oil pressure was that the bearings were scratched and the axle or crank was curbed...and also i had opend the pomps and when i looked in the interior i saw that all 3 of them were full of scratches.also everthing else looked like new in the engine.


Yes i had spined this motor too 8000 rpm.From the guy that i have bought the car told me that he modified the gear box,he mad biger reports if you can undertand my english.

thanks

hello Kyle,

thanks again.yes i can read english also i can write as you can see :P i am not translating in google...yes the manuals are very good i looked on it and this week i will finish the engine.i let you know if i made a good work.

thank you guys