Replacing wheel speed sensor
 

For a few weeks I've been dealing with the ABS coming on at very slow speeds (under 11 MPH). I've mentioned it in other threads, and diagnosed it as a left rear wheel speed sensor with the Durametric tool.

I replaced it last night, and it solved my problem!

I just thought I'd share the fix (and also the pain of doing it) with everyone. I figured it would be about a 30 minute job... I have another car on the lift, so did this on the floor. Jack it up, remove the wheel, unplug the sensor - this all went smoothly, then it went down hill... the head of the sensor bolt sheared off. The sensor itself was corroded to the suspension carrier (I didn't know aluminum corrosion would bond to plastic, but it does!) - so I had to break the sensor apart and pull/drill it out in bits.

Eventually, I got all the bits of the old sensor out, and cleaned all of the corrosion out of the hole. Then I had to deal with removing the broken bolt. I used my welding technique (which I'll post a video of later) and was finally ready to put everything back together.

Total job was about 3 hours. :crying: But it's fixed! :D

http://www.ephotomotion.com/996/996%20ABS%20sensor.JPG

Here's my video on how remove a broken bolt with the "welding technique".

Good information. Thanks for your posting.

You JinXXed it by saying it was going to be a 1/2 hr job. Great video and thanx for taking the time to produce.

How much is a new sensor?

Awesome video. Any worries about the the car electronics and welding? What type of welder do you have?

Oh what I could do only if I had the tools..........I'd make a female robot about 3 feet tall, flat head and big ears.....sorry it's been a long week!

Nice job Van!

$87 from Pelican (rear sensor p/n 996.606.406.00)


It is best if you disconnect the ground terminal from the battery before welding - I didn't this time, but usually do.

My welder is a Lincoln mig that runs on 110v - it's a great little welder that I've had for years. Don't use the "flux core" wire-feed welders - they're a little cheaper than a mig (gas) flux welder, but the results aren't nearly as good. Spend the extra $100 and get the full mig setup.


Pete, I see a bar in your immediate future... :cheers: :biggulp:

Seriously, you must have to world's best equipped home garage....

Nah...liquor store....its time for a few Weiss Biers and a cigar on the back deck. :D

I have access to a MIG welder. Hope I don't need it. Great idea though.

What about hitting them with a cold chisel until they loosen? Like, removing the seat bolts.

Well done!

I don't have Durametric, but still have to get the sensors out to check them over. (the beep-test fine).

What's the bolt type that retains the sensor?

Dan

Heat the aluminum first
 

First of all, great video! When I try to replace my sensor, I will try adding heat to the aluminum around the bolt first since aluminum thermally expands more than steel. While hot, spray in WD40 so the capillary action will draw the lubricant into the threads. Then maybe the bolt will come out without breaking. Be sure to apply Never-seize to the new bolt before inserting. Thanks again. Tim