Clutch failure
01-09-2010, 05:50 PM
#16
Race Director
Thanks for all the input. I think Stephen's suggestion is possible with respect to changing out the initial clutch disc...I think they probably looked at the outer friction material and unwarped shape of the disc and decided that the clutch was okay. That would explain why the clutch continued to rattle no matter what they did at the dealer. Could have been an innocent oversight but they need to know better.
Macster, you bring up an interesting point. I will have to look at the fragments. My best guess is that there was an initial immediate partial shearing that occured to bring on the rattling noise, but the clutch continued to function. Over time, I think the remainder of the splines wore down and sheared off completely. At any rate, I can't imagine this is due to any other cause than a defective clutch disc.
Macster, you bring up an interesting point. I will have to look at the fragments. My best guess is that there was an initial immediate partial shearing that occured to bring on the rattling noise, but the clutch continued to function. Over time, I think the remainder of the splines wore down and sheared off completely. At any rate, I can't imagine this is due to any other cause than a defective clutch disc.
But look at the fragments. Post pics if you can. I'd like to see what they look like. There condition might tell us a story.
Sincerely,
Macster.
02-22-2012, 09:52 PM
#17
Team Owner
I know this has been a while, So How is the clutch working?
I have a similar issue with my BMW R 1150 GS and the splines are just about worn away this also required a replacement input shaft.
I found a mismatch of the crank centerline to the trans input of .0095in and this was fixed by adding an offset collar to one of the alignment dowels they are hollow as a bolt passes through them.
The other reason i was asking is that I want to also press the center portion of my new disc back towards the trans mission by 4 MM this will add full engagement of the clutch hub to splines.
NOTE BMW didnt proof check the transmission and all of these bikes have an input shaft thats 4 MM too short so the disc hub isnt fully engaged.
your disc center appears to be deformed in a manner that i am trying to have done.
Also your hub splines are sheared off in a similar fashion as some of the BMW R series motorcycles experience.
I have a similar issue with my BMW R 1150 GS and the splines are just about worn away this also required a replacement input shaft.
I found a mismatch of the crank centerline to the trans input of .0095in and this was fixed by adding an offset collar to one of the alignment dowels they are hollow as a bolt passes through them.
The other reason i was asking is that I want to also press the center portion of my new disc back towards the trans mission by 4 MM this will add full engagement of the clutch hub to splines.
NOTE BMW didnt proof check the transmission and all of these bikes have an input shaft thats 4 MM too short so the disc hub isnt fully engaged.
your disc center appears to be deformed in a manner that i am trying to have done.
Also your hub splines are sheared off in a similar fashion as some of the BMW R series motorcycles experience.
