Engine Mount hemorrhage
#1
Racer
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Engine Mount hemorrhage
While jacking up my car, my driver's side engine mount hemorrhaged. I have never been a fan of jacking up the car via the engine block, and this is why...
Are these worth upgrading, or should i just replace it with OEM? I'm assuming i can do this myself. It looks easy enough to do; just remove the lower nut and two top bolts and pull out, while supporting the engine.
At least i'm pretty sure it is the engine mount, i can't find any other leaking or pinched hose. The fluid smells and is viscous like power steering.
Are these worth upgrading, or should i just replace it with OEM? I'm assuming i can do this myself. It looks easy enough to do; just remove the lower nut and two top bolts and pull out, while supporting the engine.
At least i'm pretty sure it is the engine mount, i can't find any other leaking or pinched hose. The fluid smells and is viscous like power steering.
#2
Racer
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I'm leaning to the WEVO mount. Car is street/track, non-DD. Has anyone else tried these?
http://www.wevo.com/Products/Chassis...gineMounts.htm
http://www.wevo.com/Products/Chassis...gineMounts.htm
#3
Rennlist Member
Same thing happened to me once. Yes, very easy to change (just make sure to support the engine, as you noted). My take is that with new(er) mounts, damaging them is not too likely just by engine jacking, but if they are on the way out doing so definitely can hasten their demise.
#4
The Penguin King
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Yup that's the engine mount. Same thing happened to me. I chickened out and had my mechanic replace them for me (I replaced both as I figured the other one would go in a matter of time.). If the car is for the street, I suspect you would be much happier with the stock mounts as they will transmit much less vibration and noise.
#5
I'm leaning to the WEVO mount. Car is street/track, non-DD. Has anyone else tried these?
http://www.wevo.com/Products/Chassis...gineMounts.htm
http://www.wevo.com/Products/Chassis...gineMounts.htm
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...o+mount&page=2
FYI
#6
I installed 993 RS mount, OEM parts from Porsche. Paid around $300 from Sunset. You will need a longer bolt-130mm to make it fit. Same mount sells from Carnewal for 295Euro.
http://www.carnewal-europe.com/cpx_p96189.htm
RS mount part #
964.375.043.80 Engine Mounts (qty 2)
901.305.311.00 Seat (qty 4)
999.025.074.02 Washer (qty 4)
999.025.134.02 Washer (qty 4)
Optional: You can use existing parts
900.074.134.02 Bolt (qty 4)
999.084.215.09 Locking Nut (qty 2)
you need to get two longer bolts,12mm, 1.5 pitch, GR 10.9, 130mm length bolt. I got them from
http://www.metricspecialties.com/
FYI
MTB
http://www.carnewal-europe.com/cpx_p96189.htm
RS mount part #
964.375.043.80 Engine Mounts (qty 2)
901.305.311.00 Seat (qty 4)
999.025.074.02 Washer (qty 4)
999.025.134.02 Washer (qty 4)
Optional: You can use existing parts
900.074.134.02 Bolt (qty 4)
999.084.215.09 Locking Nut (qty 2)
you need to get two longer bolts,12mm, 1.5 pitch, GR 10.9, 130mm length bolt. I got them from
http://www.metricspecialties.com/
FYI
MTB
#7
Racer
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Awesome! Thanks for posting this info. I am going to order the WEVO mounds with the softer, black bushings.
Hopefully this will make a night and day difference. Funny, thinking back about it, i noticed all the signs of shot motor mounts but only now can connect them. It was most frustrating on track trying to hit 2nd gear for oak tree at VIR, while the car was loaded driver's side.
Hopefully this will make a night and day difference. Funny, thinking back about it, i noticed all the signs of shot motor mounts but only now can connect them. It was most frustrating on track trying to hit 2nd gear for oak tree at VIR, while the car was loaded driver's side.
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#8
Race Car
Dan,
NOt sure I can add much over what I already stated in my earlier thread that was linked.. I'm very content with them. no more exhaust hitting the bumper when I jack up the rear!
Andy
NOt sure I can add much over what I already stated in my earlier thread that was linked.. I'm very content with them. no more exhaust hitting the bumper when I jack up the rear!
Andy
#9
Racer
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MTB,
am I doing something wrong? I can't find the size you specified on the site you gave nor grainger or McMaster-Carr. I can only find a M12 1.75 pitch and max length of 120mm on grade/class 10.9
I can get a 130mm bolt but only in a different grade, and the max tensile strength drops from 150Ksi to 115Ksi.
:edit:
I can get it in a hex socket M12 x 1.75 and 130mm length, tensile strength 174Ksi...
The McMaster-Carr part# is 91290A649 for those interested.
am I doing something wrong? I can't find the size you specified on the site you gave nor grainger or McMaster-Carr. I can only find a M12 1.75 pitch and max length of 120mm on grade/class 10.9
I can get a 130mm bolt but only in a different grade, and the max tensile strength drops from 150Ksi to 115Ksi.
:edit:
I can get it in a hex socket M12 x 1.75 and 130mm length, tensile strength 174Ksi...
The McMaster-Carr part# is 91290A649 for those interested.
Last edited by Fissionx; 11-30-2008 at 02:16 AM.
#12
Racer
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Can't I just order a new nut with 1.75 pitch? Use the hex socket bolt i mentioned above?
Both are steel and the hex socket is stronger. Sounds like it will do the job just fine, maybe I am missing something?
Thanks again for your help, I just think this might be easier for someone else to find and use in the future, it's stronger and uses standard pitch.
:edit:
Just saw this in Andy's post...
Both are steel and the hex socket is stronger. Sounds like it will do the job just fine, maybe I am missing something?
Thanks again for your help, I just think this might be easier for someone else to find and use in the future, it's stronger and uses standard pitch.
:edit:
Just saw this in Andy's post...
On the bolt size, I had previously researched and found on the GT3 forum that a M12 bolt in 130mm length was required. I went to my local Fastenal location and the longest they had was a 120mm length bolt. I'm not sure if the carrier is slightly different on the 996 vs. the GT3 but the 120mm length bolt is pleanty long. There's 10-15mm of thread sticking through the nut on the bottom even with using an additional washer against the engine plate.