another dead battery thread
 

Ok, so I let the go-cart (my name) or Sally (my 3yos name after the character in Cars of course) sit for a couple weeks while I went on vaca and low and behold when I got back the battery was so dead it wouldn't even take a jump. A few days on a charger did nothing.

I just popped in a new OEM battery tonight (guess I can't resist pissing it away on a label). Anyway, she starts wonderfully now but I noticed that the seat memory module's light does not go out even after a few hours. I'm no genius, but I'm guessing that is causing enough of a drain to kill the battery. I have it on a ctek for now but I need to correct the drain. Any suggestions?

put a battery tender on it...

yep - the ctek is now hard wired

Did you try holding the memory button down and pressing '1' or '2'? Maybe that will reset it. Another option is to disconnect the battery again...both terminals...and turn the car over a couple times, waiting about 5 minutes before reattaching.

I did try resetting the memory for the key and "1" to see if it was stuck in a mid-program state. That didn't seem to change the behavior but...the light did finally go off after about 2 hours. Not sure how long it really took but it was way too long. I'm reluctant to try the full disconnect idea because I'm not sure if I have the PCM code. The manual I got with the car is for the CR220 not the PCM - long story...

Does anyone know how long that light should stay on? Is there a way to adjust the amount of time it stays on? Also, the trunk light seems to stay on for over an hour - doesn't seem right.

What's a good recommendation for a replacement battery?

1. Autozone - Group size 48 (DURALAST - 48-DL - includes venting kit) - approx. $65

2. Group 47 from Costco. Comes with vent tube. $49. 3 year full replacement warranty, 100 month pro-rated warranty (right now, $39 with instant rebate)

3. Group 49 will fit with higher CCA, etc …. But costs more and is heavier.

Well I need a new battery. Made the same mistake moved during the winter and got lazy to connect by battery tender. thought I could just connect the tender for a few days and it will be fine. First crank, tough start, but did start. Drove the car around for about 15miles. Turned her off and tried to crank her up again, but no juice. urgh!!! Connected the battery tender and red light came on then finally after 1/2 hr blinking green light for about 3 hrs before I gave up. I was a bit confused though, because before first crank, the tender gave me a solid green?

I read somewhere on this forum that if you leave the key in the ignition, the lights stay on. Also if you get out of the car, shut the car door, and then remove the key, the interior lights stay on for a couple of hours.

Lazerblade, Kim is correct on the DURALAST - 48-DL at Autozone. I went through this a few months back. Here is a link to my post.

Replacement Battery

I have a Group 48 Deka battery, that always seems to have trouble starting the car...just like its weak, but when I brought it too Pep Boys for a test, it showed "Good", on the multi cell tester. Then we put it on a load tester that has an actual meter, and it was still "Good", but borderline. It only showed 11.55 volts. A good lead/acid wet cell is 2.1 volts, so 12.6 is good in my book. We went through & measured a couple of new batteries on the shelf, and I finally setted on a group 49 Bosch Premier Plus for $100...12.55 volts, 850 CCA, 155 res, and 1000. Car starts up like a dream now.

I just bought mine at Costco for $50. Kirkland, 3yr replacement warranty. 700CC

Keep in mind the Battery Tender is a fairly low current charger. Perhaps 1.25 to 2A. If you have, say, a 50 amp-hour battery, completely discharged, it could take 2 or 3 days to full charge it at that rate. That's for a good battery that happens to just be discharged.

When a battery is "bad" vs. "dead" it acts funny electrically and chemically, which can confuse gadgets like the Battery Tender. Frequently they get high internal resistance which fools the charger into thinking it's charged, but with any load whatsoever the terminal voltage falls flat.

A charger with a de-suflator (which uses very high frequency high current pulses) can sometimes recondition batteries which have been left sitting too long.

Bill