Ignition switch scare
#1
Race Car
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Ignition switch scare
Last night I was at the gas station filling up. I had left the keys in the ignition and once I filled up, I got back into my car and went to turn the key to the "start" position. The key would not turn, no big deal, must be that my wheels are turned locking the tumbler. So I shake the wheel and notice that it is not the wheel holding the key from turning, it must be something else. I then to proceed to try again, still wont turn and then all of a sudden, the key feels like it had busted off a lug inside the tumbler and will not grab anything to push the ignition switch in to start the car. WTF! I cant get the key out and the stereo is still on, I cant turn the steering wheel to move the car, and to top it off, I cannot put the car in neutral (it is a tip). The car is totally immobolized. I think, even if I get a tow truck, you cannot tow a car with the wheels turned or drive wheels locked by park. My mind is going a million miles an hour, I am freaking, I cant believe it is happening. Normally not a big deal, I can take off work and replace the lock and ignition, but my car is totally immobolized. AGGH. Then I proceed to turn the key back and forth and the key pulls out, thank God. So I put the key back in and try again, it just keeps spinning and popping inside not starting the car. Then I decide to turn the key all the way back towards the "OFF" position. It stops and the stereo goes off, OK now what. I turn the key back towards the "start" position and the darned thing starts. WTF So I drive home and turn the car off and on a few times and drove today into work with no problems. Has anyone had a similar problem? I am a cheap person and do not want to replace the ignition lock, it ran about $121 on Pelican and looks to take only about 5 minutes to replace. But of course if it works, I am not going to replace it yet.
#3
Not that you asked, but if it was me, I'd replace it. These things don't heal. This was a warning. The price of the new part sounds like cheap insurance compared to the cost and risk of a tow. Anyway, whatever you decide, good luck with it.
#4
I second what BruceP said. It more than likely is a sign of worst things to come. You don't want to be in the wrong place and/or bad weather when the thing decides to break completely.
#5
I had that puppy go on me. Luckily, after much fidgeting (and sweat), I was able to get the car started and to the shop.
My wrench told me that they have replaced several of these on 996's, so I would definitely not wait to get it done.
=Carlos=
My wrench told me that they have replaced several of these on 996's, so I would definitely not wait to get it done.
=Carlos=
#7
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Tippy - Check out this thread. Post #4 lists the Audi part # 4A0-905-849 B
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...highlight=audi
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...highlight=audi
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#8
Originally Posted by CarlosR
I had that puppy go on me. Luckily, after much fidgeting (and sweat), I was able to get the car started and to the shop.
My wrench told me that they have replaced several of these on 996's, so I would definitely not wait to get it done.
=Carlos=
My wrench told me that they have replaced several of these on 996's, so I would definitely not wait to get it done.
=Carlos=
ive relaced 3-4................................ a week
#9
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This happened to me as well, with no prior symptoms. I finally got it to start, but no AC. It was 100 degrees here in Tampa with a one hour bumper to bumper commute ahead of me.
I replaced it the next day.
I replaced it the next day.
#10
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I just replaced mine, it's not that hard w/the right tools.
Use the Audi part, as the new Porsche part includes the entire steering lock assembly. My dealer quoted me $450 to do it. I bought the Audi part on e-bay and the screwdriver from Radioshack. I used a dental mirror so I could see the screws and had it done in less then an hour for $23.
Here a great DIY:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=493
Use the Audi part, as the new Porsche part includes the entire steering lock assembly. My dealer quoted me $450 to do it. I bought the Audi part on e-bay and the screwdriver from Radioshack. I used a dental mirror so I could see the screws and had it done in less then an hour for $23.
Here a great DIY:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=493
#12
Race Car
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the Audi replacement post, I will save some money!
But how do you guys who have replaced the mechanism use the existing keys? I just replaced the key fob not too long ago.
But how do you guys who have replaced the mechanism use the existing keys? I just replaced the key fob not too long ago.
#14
porsche now reccomed chaing the lock assy...i have seen cars that when replacing just the switch the new switch would only last days till it bound up again
but the lock cylinder is reomvable and reused
but the lock cylinder is reomvable and reused
#15
Race Car
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Isnt the lock the problem? It is not the switch, that works fine, so I need to change the whole assembly (lock and switch) right? So if I do, I have to change keys right?