I looked through the maintenance manual for my car (2001 coupe) and it doesn't say anything about changing the radiator fluid. Other European manufacturers require radiator fluid to be replaced at 10 years or 100,000 miles, whichever comes first, and they also specify which kind of radiator fluid to use. My car is now 25 years old with very low mileage. So, I'm wondering whether to change the radiator fluid, what the fluid capacity is and what spec fluid to use if I do need to change it.

 

Yes, 6 gallons of G40. Change your water pump while you're in there.

 

What about

Prestone MAX Original Equipment Antifreeze + Coolant: Euro Pink, 50/50

 

Water pump is a "Wear Item".

The water pump is supposed to be changed at around every 50k miles, or every 5 years, so the fluid gets changed at the same time. Many also replace the thermostat with a lower-temperature thermostat at the same time. Do not replace W/P with a metal impeller blade, only a plastic one.

In addition, the coolant reservoir, the whitish tank thing on left rear corner has a tendency to expire (crack) at around 100k miles, so something to think about.

YMMV

 

I have an unusual situation. I have just eleven thousand miles even though the car is 25 years old. And it's always been in the garage (except on those rare occasions when it's driven). So, I don't think I will change the water pump or the coolant reservoir. I think I'll just change the radiator fluid.

 

Regardless of mileage, the water pump bearings have been subject to drive belt tension now for 25 years. Its cheap insurance to replace it now before inmiment failure. If broken impeller pieces work their way into the cylinder heads your problems will magnify immensely.

 

It's sort of an interesting question for both the coolant expansion tank and the water pump impellers (i.e. plastic bits) to what degree they should be replaced based on age vs. mileage. I would guess that for both parts, somewhat proactive monitoring of coolant leaks should identify any failure with plenty of time to spare.

 

I hate to say it, but 25 year age affects everything in the car. Would you drive "spiritedly" or "hooligan driving" as some refer to it on 25 year old tires? Nearly every rubber seal, o-ring, hose, whatever has NOT been lubricated or used in heat cycles for 25 years. All that means is any or every one one them could fail at any time just from being run and driven as a "Porsche". Crappy DE wiring at the time of build was junk stuff then, what does it look like now? Any small critters make their way into wires somewhere? Critters have had 25 years to figure out how to chew on 996 wires. I have a friendly, but ruthless ct, and SWEAR that there are no openings or gaps in a new house I built. In 12 years, Ruthless Cat has caught/killed/ and left on kitchen floor 42 dead mice. The number has gone waaaay down only 2 or 3 in each of the last 5 years, good watchcat. I have no idea how they get in, but Mr. Cat is on the job and even has 996 in his "Patrol" area. A garage is not mouse proof if they are around. Unfortunately, the list is endless. Maybe you escape the AGE TRAP with coolant reservoir, dunno until it fails.

Your 996 is a perfect example of an extreme low miles car that may or may not be a gamble to own. Folks like Jake Ruby (LNEng) and Brandon Clark (Slakker) trust a proven part that shows little wear and has gone 50-60-70k miles, excluding the BIG FAIL ITEMS. Sure you can cheap out on looking at stuff and not spend much, as in "Don't Fix It If It Ain't Broke", syndrome, but it isn't a good bet.

Example- torn front CV boots for a C4, reasonable miles. . Easy, cheap fix, no problem. NO DEAL. Axles "fretted" - meaning self-welded to wheel carrier, requires new CVs axles, bearings, AND main strut Wheel Carriers both sides. Cost in a shop somewhere - $3500-$5000 IF you can find good used wheel carriers. P isn't making any anymore.

I like NOT paying P-tax and getting parts for low cost $$, but some things just don't work well with a high performance car like a P-996. You may want all the looks and goodies of a ~$100,000 car, and buy it for far less at 25 years old, but it is STILL a $100,000 high performance German sports car unlike any other. Buy & Flip, OK maybe for house, maybe for P-Cars, but it is a risk. Reality.

I am not trying to rain on your Parade, just offering reality. Maybe I don't say it correctly, but a very low mile car may look great, but have issues that even experienced folks would be surprised about. JM).

YMMV

 

Maybe, maybe not. Why is fixing/replacing some part as advised by P or the 996-use-community called "Proactive" maintenance? Ask DeJeeper about his near total rebuild and what failed shortly thereafter... Just an observation....

YMMV

 

To be fair, changing a pump and thermostat at the same time as a coolant change isn’t that much more work. Bearings go bad, impellers can get brittle, and since the coolant will be replaced… why not just get those items out of the way?

The reservoir is a little different, imo. Usually the heat cycles cause the cracking to occur but with that few on the car it’s likely okay.

 

At the very least, the water pump should be removed for inspection while the cooling system is empty. Throw it back on with a new gasket if it seems good.

 

It’s so funny to see this group lose their minds when someone asks a question and get extra advice that they say no thank you to.

My advice was going to be leave it alone and don’t change the fluid. Done improperly can have more adverse effects.

The best parts for these cars are the ones that came on it from the factory. I think PT made a thread about how you can’t get the same quality as the originals.

Let’s see how this goes from here.
Btw I also have a sub $40 ims bearing in my car.

 

1- I believe it was an aftermarket coolant hose that failed on his car…
2- It was on the track (ie. all bets are off)

Other than those two caveats your observation is fair. What it comes down to is this; On a 25 year old car - regardless of mileage - you just never know. You do what you can to mitigate potential failures, but there are a multitude of ways & circumstances that you can’t foresee. Personally, I would rather have a car that’s been driven and serviced, than one that has sat still for most of its existence.

 

Don't do anything.
Don't drive it.
Put it on BAT in 10 years for $75,000.
Let the next owner who wants to drive it worry about the water pump thermostat and coolant.

 

I think this is how the majority of Porsche buyers think. This said, I think most current 996 owners are drivers/enthusiasts with a smattering of whatever…(I don’t want to disparage anyone)