Originally Posted by Porschetech3
(Post 18257470)
Yes, there is a big difference..
Aluminum /Nikasil is high tech, low friction, quicker heat transfer, higher cost. ie Creme De La Creme Ductile Iron is old school dependable , less horsepower , slower heat transfer, less cost..But few can fit it to aluminum M96/7 engines reliably.. Yes, I have seen this with highly technical info even from Porsche themselves, translated to PCNA for technical documents. Seems even PCNA Translators will botch up technical info when the Translators are not as highly trained in engine tech as they are in Languages.. The old saying "it got lost in the translation" is a real thing... |
Reading through the Cartronic Motorsport website/document, and reading some online messages, I'm pretty sure they send their engines (or at least used to send until Brexit) to Hartech in the UK to get the Alu liners installed.
In one of the Google reviews they mention they had issues with the shipping of a customer's engine because of challenges with Brexit and Covid.. That leads me to believe that the german document shared on their website is probably a translation of Hartech's document describing all the challenges with the M96/M97. I've not requested the document from Hartech, so I can't compare directly. But for those that want to read it in English, and not struggle through a german version, I suggest to reach out to Baz :-) Happy to be told otherwise if they are not the same document.. Gerrit |
Originally Posted by katana309
(Post 18258603)
Reading through the Cartronic Motorsport website/document, and reading some online messages, I'm pretty sure they send their engines (or at least used to send until Brexit) to Hartech in the UK to get the Alu liners installed.
In one of the Google reviews they mention they had issues with the shipping of a customer's engine because of challenges with Brexit and Covid.. That leads me to believe that the german document shared on their website is probably a translation of Hartech's document describing all the challenges with the M96/M97. I've not requested the document from Hartech, so I can't compare directly. But for those that want to read it in English, and not struggle through a german version, I suggest to reach out to Baz :-) Happy to be told otherwise if they are not the same document.. Gerrit |
Originally Posted by katana309
(Post 18258603)
.
... That leads me to believe that the german document shared on their website is probably a translation of Hartech's document describing all the challenges with the M96/M97. I've not requested the document from Hartech, so I can't compare directly. But for those that want to read it in English, and not struggle through a german version, I suggest to reach out to Baz :-) Happy to be told otherwise if they are not the same document.. Gerrit |
Originally Posted by Tr4ckD4ys
(Post 18258486)
Any specific terms that have been eluding you and the non-technical translators so far, feel free to PM me if you want me to take a stab at it.
No, the correct answers/translations is already known else there wouldn't be a reason to dispute the translations from Porsche. These mistakes are usually mentioned at Porsche Training Classes and we make the corrections to our Porsche Training Handbooks. Otherwise we have to assume the translations are correct since they come through Porsche channels. |
Apparently there's a lovely little shop in Pfaffenhausen. I believe they're called Ruf. They work on Porsches
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I get so excited about what are probably the worst ideas :roflmao:. Best of luck to you OP.
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Originally Posted by Sam-Son
(Post 18260950)
Apparently there's a lovely little shop in Pfaffenhausen. I believe they're called Ruf. They work on Porsches
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Originally Posted by Tr4ckD4ys
(Post 18257140)
I'm happy to help translate specific questions and portions, however, I am not aware of a tool that easily and accurately translates PDF files. I know google translate does a reasonable job on German-English translations, but I won't lie, this document has a ton of specific and technical language that will trip any auto-translator up. Unless you can get a gofundme together for an educated translator to handle this, the 120+ pages in this document will largely remain of value only to the German-speaking community.
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Originally Posted by rs10
(Post 18261312)
Do they say anything interesting about avoiding oil starvation (other than the oil-grade recommendations)?
Earlier in the document they also talk about having done an experiment together with Hartech where they installed an additional oil injection point & squirter for each cylinder. It caused the engine to run at healthily lower oil temperatures due to less friction as well as higher overall oil pressure. That experiment apparently completely eradicated piston & lokasil issues, however, they say it’s cost prohibitive so they don’t offer it on their builds. |
Tidbit of info on their racing sump in this post https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post14568578
The horizontal baffle has horizontal flaps that close off the part of the sump below the plate by means of the oil rushing past below the flap. Below the horizontal baffle there are cast-in curvy 'ribs' at the forward end of their sump that channel oil under braking and cornering into the central area where the pump pick-up sits. The pictures in the document don't show it but pictures on Hartech 's Facebook page do. |
Originally Posted by rs10
(Post 18256863)
So which is better, iron sleeves or Nikasil? Is there a big difference?
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Rebuld vs. small block?
Rebuild vs. small block?
I'm slowly making progress on figuring out what the various engine (re)builders can do for me. At the same time, I'm puzzling over another option. Porsche sells refurbished small blocks, which seems a significantly cheaper way to go than a performance and reliability enhancing rebuild by a top (re)builder. And super tempting though such an engine would be, the extra cost seems hard to justify. What are everyone's thoughts on this? So far, my thoughts and questions are ...
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I think the biggest argument against Porsche shortblock (new or refurbished) is that you’re just getting another Lokasil, bore scoring prone engine with same issues as previous one. It’s not even the performance argument but just pure reliability. There are other forum members who were going this route and to my knowledge have been happy with it. It certainly seems the cheapest option next to ductile iron sleeve based rebuild. Both of these options have their own pro’s and con’s with the pros being mostly about cost and the cons mostly about reliability. Also, if you’re thinking -refurbished- short block then you might as well think about buying a used engine, which comes with its own risks.
Either way, I’m in the same boat as you, and the more I spend time thinking about it, the more it seems to me the extra money is worth the extra quality from RND/FSI/EBS type folks… that is if you truly love your car and want to keep it for your kids to inherit it and love it too! |
Originally Posted by rs10
(Post 18267450)
Rebuild vs. small block?
I'm slowly making progress on figuring out what the various engine (re)builders can do for me. At the same time, I'm puzzling over another option. Porsche sells refurbished small blocks, which seems a significantly cheaper way to go than a performance and reliability enhancing rebuild by a top (re)builder. And super tempting though such an engine would be, the extra cost seems hard to justify. What are everyone's thoughts on this? So far, my thoughts and questions are ...
I wouldn't worry about borescoring with the factory small block program. All you gotta do is change your oil at least 2x a year and you will be light years ahead of most early 996 owners who changed it every 15k miles. Wonder why some cars suffered from bore scoring? Small block is a viable option. Comes down to whether your want enhanced performance and durability beyond factory. I would prefer it. But many don't. Your call. |
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