First oil change -- Problems after
#1
First oil change -- Problems after
Hello all,
Today I changed the oil on my new-to-me 996. Additionally, I decided to change the air filter and drive belt. After filling the car back up with 8.5-9q of oil, I checked the electronic level (the dipstick read over full) and it read two or three bars under full line. I plugged up the durametric and was getting ready to drive off to let the oil disperse, check my camshaft deviation values, and top it off with oil tonight.
Before I was able to leave, I noticed after about a minute (and a half) of running that the oil pressure light was on and the oil pressure gauge read sub-1 bar. I freaked out and immediately shut the car off. I checked to see if the oil filter, which looked good and scoured the forums -- didn't see a similar problem. I decided it must have been a fluke, so I tried to re-start the vehicle. Start up showed the gauge still at sub-1 bar and the oil pressure light on. This start sounded much rougher.
Thinking back through the oil change, I wondered what I could have possibly done to leave my car with no oil pressure. The only weird thing I can thing of is the oil filter hand-spun on about half the way and hung up, so I had to finish the rest of the 10 or so revolutions with a wrench. I started to thing that maybe I couldn't build oil pressure because I cross-threaded the oil filter, or messed up something on the oil filter. It's the only odd variable.
I went ahead and drained the oil and re-checked the oil filter, which when broken, spun off by hand perfectly. The oil filter looked good to go, with the oil bypass mechanism well-seated in the oil filter. I'm going to let the oil sit for awhile and see if there are any insights on these awesome forums. Thanks in advance!
Today I changed the oil on my new-to-me 996. Additionally, I decided to change the air filter and drive belt. After filling the car back up with 8.5-9q of oil, I checked the electronic level (the dipstick read over full) and it read two or three bars under full line. I plugged up the durametric and was getting ready to drive off to let the oil disperse, check my camshaft deviation values, and top it off with oil tonight.
Before I was able to leave, I noticed after about a minute (and a half) of running that the oil pressure light was on and the oil pressure gauge read sub-1 bar. I freaked out and immediately shut the car off. I checked to see if the oil filter, which looked good and scoured the forums -- didn't see a similar problem. I decided it must have been a fluke, so I tried to re-start the vehicle. Start up showed the gauge still at sub-1 bar and the oil pressure light on. This start sounded much rougher.
Thinking back through the oil change, I wondered what I could have possibly done to leave my car with no oil pressure. The only weird thing I can thing of is the oil filter hand-spun on about half the way and hung up, so I had to finish the rest of the 10 or so revolutions with a wrench. I started to thing that maybe I couldn't build oil pressure because I cross-threaded the oil filter, or messed up something on the oil filter. It's the only odd variable.
I went ahead and drained the oil and re-checked the oil filter, which when broken, spun off by hand perfectly. The oil filter looked good to go, with the oil bypass mechanism well-seated in the oil filter. I'm going to let the oil sit for awhile and see if there are any insights on these awesome forums. Thanks in advance!
#4
Burning Brakes
Hello all,
Today I changed the oil on my new-to-me 996. Additionally, I decided to change the air filter and drive belt. After filling the car back up with 8.5-9q of oil, I checked the electronic level (the dipstick read over full) and it read two or three bars under full line. I plugged up the durametric and was getting ready to drive off to let the oil disperse, check my camshaft deviation values, and top it off with oil tonight.
Before I was able to leave, I noticed after about a minute (and a half) of running that the oil pressure light was on and the oil pressure gauge read sub-1 bar. I freaked out and immediately shut the car off. I checked to see if the oil filter, which looked good and scoured the forums -- didn't see a similar problem. I decided it must have been a fluke, so I tried to re-start the vehicle. Start up showed the gauge still at sub-1 bar and the oil pressure light on. This start sounded much rougher.
Thinking back through the oil change, I wondered what I could have possibly done to leave my car with no oil pressure. The only weird thing I can thing of is the oil filter hand-spun on about half the way and hung up, so I had to finish the rest of the 10 or so revolutions with a wrench. I started to thing that maybe I couldn't build oil pressure because I cross-threaded the oil filter, or messed up something on the oil filter. It's the only odd variable.
I went ahead and drained the oil and re-checked the oil filter, which when broken, spun off by hand perfectly. The oil filter looked good to go, with the oil bypass mechanism well-seated in the oil filter. I'm going to let the oil sit for awhile and see if there are any insights on these awesome forums. Thanks in advance!
Today I changed the oil on my new-to-me 996. Additionally, I decided to change the air filter and drive belt. After filling the car back up with 8.5-9q of oil, I checked the electronic level (the dipstick read over full) and it read two or three bars under full line. I plugged up the durametric and was getting ready to drive off to let the oil disperse, check my camshaft deviation values, and top it off with oil tonight.
Before I was able to leave, I noticed after about a minute (and a half) of running that the oil pressure light was on and the oil pressure gauge read sub-1 bar. I freaked out and immediately shut the car off. I checked to see if the oil filter, which looked good and scoured the forums -- didn't see a similar problem. I decided it must have been a fluke, so I tried to re-start the vehicle. Start up showed the gauge still at sub-1 bar and the oil pressure light on. This start sounded much rougher.
Thinking back through the oil change, I wondered what I could have possibly done to leave my car with no oil pressure. The only weird thing I can thing of is the oil filter hand-spun on about half the way and hung up, so I had to finish the rest of the 10 or so revolutions with a wrench. I started to thing that maybe I couldn't build oil pressure because I cross-threaded the oil filter, or messed up something on the oil filter. It's the only odd variable.
I went ahead and drained the oil and re-checked the oil filter, which when broken, spun off by hand perfectly. The oil filter looked good to go, with the oil bypass mechanism well-seated in the oil filter. I'm going to let the oil sit for awhile and see if there are any insights on these awesome forums. Thanks in advance!
I'd say the other odd variable is the dipstick reading overfull when you only added 8.5-9 qts of oil. In my 996.1, 9 quarts gets me right in the middle of the dipstick, which I have found always more accurate than the electronic reader. That doesn't explain why your oil pressure should be low, but on flat ground that dipstick reading is way off.
#6
Drifting
Hello all,
Today I changed the oil on my new-to-me 996. Additionally, I decided to change the air filter and drive belt. After filling the car back up with 8.5-9q of oil, I checked the electronic level (the dipstick read over full) and it read two or three bars under full line. I plugged up the durametric and was getting ready to drive off to let the oil disperse, check my camshaft deviation values, and top it off with oil tonight.
Before I was able to leave, I noticed after about a minute (and a half) of running that the oil pressure light was on and the oil pressure gauge read sub-1 bar. I freaked out and immediately shut the car off. I checked to see if the oil filter, which looked good and scoured the forums -- didn't see a similar problem. I decided it must have been a fluke, so I tried to re-start the vehicle. Start up showed the gauge still at sub-1 bar and the oil pressure light on. This start sounded much rougher.
Thinking back through the oil change, I wondered what I could have possibly done to leave my car with no oil pressure. The only weird thing I can thing of is the oil filter hand-spun on about half the way and hung up, so I had to finish the rest of the 10 or so revolutions with a wrench. I started to thing that maybe I couldn't build oil pressure because I cross-threaded the oil filter, or messed up something on the oil filter. It's the only odd variable.
I went ahead and drained the oil and re-checked the oil filter, which when broken, spun off by hand perfectly. The oil filter looked good to go, with the oil bypass mechanism well-seated in the oil filter. I'm going to let the oil sit for awhile and see if there are any insights on these awesome forums. Thanks in advance!
Today I changed the oil on my new-to-me 996. Additionally, I decided to change the air filter and drive belt. After filling the car back up with 8.5-9q of oil, I checked the electronic level (the dipstick read over full) and it read two or three bars under full line. I plugged up the durametric and was getting ready to drive off to let the oil disperse, check my camshaft deviation values, and top it off with oil tonight.
Before I was able to leave, I noticed after about a minute (and a half) of running that the oil pressure light was on and the oil pressure gauge read sub-1 bar. I freaked out and immediately shut the car off. I checked to see if the oil filter, which looked good and scoured the forums -- didn't see a similar problem. I decided it must have been a fluke, so I tried to re-start the vehicle. Start up showed the gauge still at sub-1 bar and the oil pressure light on. This start sounded much rougher.
Thinking back through the oil change, I wondered what I could have possibly done to leave my car with no oil pressure. The only weird thing I can thing of is the oil filter hand-spun on about half the way and hung up, so I had to finish the rest of the 10 or so revolutions with a wrench. I started to thing that maybe I couldn't build oil pressure because I cross-threaded the oil filter, or messed up something on the oil filter. It's the only odd variable.
I went ahead and drained the oil and re-checked the oil filter, which when broken, spun off by hand perfectly. The oil filter looked good to go, with the oil bypass mechanism well-seated in the oil filter. I'm going to let the oil sit for awhile and see if there are any insights on these awesome forums. Thanks in advance!
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#9
Advanced
#10
Rennlist Member
"the oil filter hand-spun on about half the way and hung up, so I had to finish the rest of the 10 or so revolutions with a wrench"
This scares the crap out of me.
This scares the crap out of me.
#11
Former Vendor
I've seen people do that before... Thats why the filter canister had to be turned with a wrench so many times, because the assembly was reassembled backward, and the "plastic part" contacted the oil inlet too soon.
This is the only thing that makes sense to me..
#12
Rennlist Member
10 revolutions sounds like about 6 or 7 too many.
#13
Former Vendor
I have seen someone do this, and kill his engine. This is just a guess, as we've seen it a few times, and this is the only thing that makes sense, that he could have done to require such a tightening task, AND low oil pressure.
#14
Much appreciated gentlemen for the input. Ultimately figured out my issue (<<< noob).
The oil bypass valve came out with the old filter and not the canister. I got the direction wrong when I put it back in, which is why the oil filter/canister threaded half-way by hand without issue, and required a wrench to turn the rest. Pulled the new filter out last night to reverse the direction and noticed the filter tear. So, for that last half-way of threading I was destroying the filter.
If anyone is doing a first-time oil change and you happen to have the bypass valve separate from the canister, make sure you either seat it in the bottom of the canister, or (what I had to do), press it into the bottom of the filter, press the filter on to the car, and finally finish by threading the canister on.
After I finished this process, I restarted the car this morning and after about 2 seconds of running with no pressure/oil pressure warning light on, the pressure bounced immediately up to 4+ bar and the warning light went out.
ETA: I did get a new filter to replace the torn one.
The oil bypass valve came out with the old filter and not the canister. I got the direction wrong when I put it back in, which is why the oil filter/canister threaded half-way by hand without issue, and required a wrench to turn the rest. Pulled the new filter out last night to reverse the direction and noticed the filter tear. So, for that last half-way of threading I was destroying the filter.
If anyone is doing a first-time oil change and you happen to have the bypass valve separate from the canister, make sure you either seat it in the bottom of the canister, or (what I had to do), press it into the bottom of the filter, press the filter on to the car, and finally finish by threading the canister on.
After I finished this process, I restarted the car this morning and after about 2 seconds of running with no pressure/oil pressure warning light on, the pressure bounced immediately up to 4+ bar and the warning light went out.
ETA: I did get a new filter to replace the torn one.
#15
Former Vendor
Much appreciated gentlemen for the input. Ultimately figured out my issue (<<< noob).
The oil bypass valve came out with the old filter and not the canister. I got the direction wrong when I put it back in, which is why the oil filter/canister threaded half-way by hand without issue, and required a wrench to turn the rest. Pulled the new filter out last night to reverse the direction and noticed the filter tear. So, for that last half-way of threading I was destroying the filter.
If anyone is doing a first-time oil change and you happen to have the bypass valve separate from the canister, make sure you either seat it in the bottom of the canister, or (what I had to do), press it into the bottom of the filter, press the filter on to the car, and finally finish by threading the canister on.
After I finished this process, I restarted the car this morning and after about 2 seconds of running with no pressure/oil pressure warning light on, the pressure bounced immediately up to 4+ bar and the warning light went out.
The oil bypass valve came out with the old filter and not the canister. I got the direction wrong when I put it back in, which is why the oil filter/canister threaded half-way by hand without issue, and required a wrench to turn the rest. Pulled the new filter out last night to reverse the direction and noticed the filter tear. So, for that last half-way of threading I was destroying the filter.
If anyone is doing a first-time oil change and you happen to have the bypass valve separate from the canister, make sure you either seat it in the bottom of the canister, or (what I had to do), press it into the bottom of the filter, press the filter on to the car, and finally finish by threading the canister on.
After I finished this process, I restarted the car this morning and after about 2 seconds of running with no pressure/oil pressure warning light on, the pressure bounced immediately up to 4+ bar and the warning light went out.
What that scenario does is shut off the oil exiting the filter, going into the engine.
This one has gotten a lot of people. Looks like I need to do an oil change video for Rennvision.
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PFran42 (07-11-2019)