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Who's done an AOS without a motor drop?

Old 04-11-2019, 11:02 PM
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808Bill
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Default Who's done an AOS without a motor drop?

Looking for some tips and tricks.
Old 04-11-2019, 11:08 PM
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Ahsai
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Yes and I hate the job. I recommend you going from the top with the engine lowered as much as it allows
Old 04-11-2019, 11:19 PM
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808Bill
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I was thinking the same. Did you have to remove the coolant tank? 02 coupe
Old 04-11-2019, 11:54 PM
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Ahsai
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No. Just the left intake manifold. The most challenging parts are the two bolts. One closest to the front that bolts down the left intake manifold. The other closest to the rear bolting down the AOS, which needs to be attacked from the bottom.
Old 04-12-2019, 12:01 AM
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808Bill
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
No. Just the left intake manifold. The most challenging parts are the two bolts. One closest to the front that bolts down the left intake manifold. The other closest to the rear bolting down the AOS, which needs to be attacked from the bottom.
Yes, I remember the challenge of that last manifold bolt. Short open ended wrench a little at a time if I recall.
Thanks!

A catch can sounds more and more attractive...
Old 04-12-2019, 01:22 AM
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sweet victory
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Originally Posted by 808Bill
A catch can sounds more and more attractive...
Yeah, after seeing your thread, I think I'm going to pull the trigger on designing and machining one that will fit nicely in our engine bay. My current thought is to have it mount directly on the intake plenum to keep it compact as possible.
Old 04-12-2019, 02:12 AM
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ion_berkley
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
Yes and I hate the job. I recommend you going from the top with the engine lowered as much as it allows
Truly it's a really unsatisfying job, so much groveling around working by feel. I did remove (and replace) the expansion tank and getting it back in was even worse than the damn blind bolt on the AOS. I replaced all my coolant hoses, clamps etc at the same time FWIW. If I ever have to do this again I'll drop the engine even though it is a much bigger job, just because I'll learn a bunch more and it will be more satisfying.
BTW Ahsai, your AOS replacement notes were super useful...thanks!
Old 04-12-2019, 09:28 AM
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Nickshu
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It sucks but I got it done on my previous C2. Like tying your shoes while reaching through a toilet paper roll.

Takes patience and a wide assortment of tools and wobbles in different lengths and angles.

Having access through the engine bay, as well as from the left front of the engine (left front wheel-well area) is critical.

Do your coolant tank at the same time if it's not new.
Old 04-12-2019, 09:46 AM
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Scott at Team Harco
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Originally Posted by 808Bill
Looking for some tips and tricks.
No tips or tricks - just an opinion....
Install a catch can as a temporary solution. Then when the time comes to drop the engine for a bigger issue, replace the AOS then and only then.

This is my current plan, since I am in a similar boat. I'm looking at making my catch can installation cleaner and more robust. One thing I have not yet decided, is where to route the outlet from the catch can. I think it should go in either the air box snorkel or near the ventilation holes at the right side of the air box. Any one here have thoughts on these two ideas?
Old 04-12-2019, 09:57 AM
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Sula
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I had my engine out a year ago for the standard bunch of work (IMS Solution, RMS, clutch, etc.).

As I replaced the AOS I contemplated the idea of doing that job with the engine in. My hat's off to anyone who manages this.
Old 04-12-2019, 09:58 AM
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dporto
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Originally Posted by 808Bill
Looking for some tips and tricks.
If you remove the Transmission support, rear suspension cross brace and sway bar, you can lower the engine about 4" without removing much else (I did this in order to remove the bank II cam cover). I think this will get you enough room to make the AOS swap easier, though I can't speak directly to that job, as I did mine while my engine was out... Good luck!
Old 04-12-2019, 10:13 AM
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cds72911
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Originally Posted by Scott at Team Harco
No tips or tricks - just an opinion....
Install a catch can as a temporary solution. Then when the time comes to drop the engine for a bigger issue, replace the AOS then and only then.

This is my current plan, since I am in a similar boat. I'm looking at making my catch can installation cleaner and more robust. One thing I have not yet decided, is where to route the outlet from the catch can. I think it should go in either the air box snorkel or near the ventilation holes at the right side of the air box. Any one here have thoughts on these two ideas?
My state does annual safety and emissions (more like revenue generation) inspections and they’ve gotten really strict over the last couple of years. I don’t think a catch can would pass unless it wasn’t noticed. Do other states not have this kind if thing?
Old 04-12-2019, 10:42 AM
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Scott at Team Harco
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Originally Posted by cds72911
My state does annual safety and emissions (more like revenue generation) inspections and they’ve gotten really strict over the last couple of years. I don’t think a catch can would pass unless it wasn’t noticed. Do other states not have this kind if thing?
Where I live - they do not. I'm good with that.
Old 04-12-2019, 10:55 AM
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TexSquirrel
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Originally Posted by cds72911
My state does annual safety and emissions (more like revenue generation) inspections and they’ve gotten really strict over the last couple of years. I don’t think a catch can would pass unless it wasn’t noticed. Do other states not have this kind if thing?
Some areas of Texas have emission testing requirements. (Counties with large cities and the surrounding counties)
But there are no visual inspections.
If the computer is happy, they're happy.

All cars 24 years old and newer have to be inspected.
Cars without OBDII had to have testing on a dyno.
This is the last year of that, next year all non-OBDII vehicles will be exempt.
For the last several years it has been almost impossible to find a place that does non-OBDII testing.
It requires a "special" emissions dyno that no shops have anymore, or if they have one they don't want to get them repaired since the phase out has made it where there are fewer and fewer older cars needing inspection.
There is just one that I know of in the Houston area. (in tiny Rosenberg)

Going forward, I'm not sure if the 24 year old rule will continue to apply, or if they will change to say all cars with OBDII will need to be inspected.
I'm hoping they will stay with 24 years old and newer so that someday my 996 will no longer need the emissions testing.
I'd like to save on the inspection cost, and also be able to go cat-less without worry.
Safety inspection for exempt non-OBD vehicles: $7.50
Safety inspection & emissions testing for OBDII vehicles: $39.75

My friend's 1995 Vette failed emissions 4 times this year.
EGR valve, and 2 replacement valves kept barely failing.
When you fail, then the requirements are harder the next time.
He finally passed, and is now in the process of removing all his emissions equipment.
Old 04-12-2019, 10:58 AM
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MexicoBlueTurboS
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Originally Posted by Sula
I had my engine out a year ago for the standard bunch of work (IMS Solution, RMS, clutch, etc.).

As I replaced the AOS I contemplated the idea of doing that job with the engine in. My hat's off to anyone who manages this.
They make it look so damn easy in the Porsche factory - the body comes from one side, the engine assembly from another and voila.

I'm not sure how many of those 3 minute stations it takes but it's done quicker than most deep dish pizzas.

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