Mike K

Rennlisters that have done this;
Car is an '02 c4s manual, 81K mi.
clutch has always been a little heavy since i've owned it, 3yrs ~20k mi. but coming from air/cooled pre g50 i figured no big deal maybe a broken helper spring.
Recently clutch action has become very light and the clutch started slipping which brings me to where i am today.
Decided to diy and go with the Ln Solution since i'm doing the work.
Using a Quickjack, everything is disconnected...that top bell housing bolt nearly kicked my A$$ till i figured the only way was to lower the trans ~ 1" and use 1/2" extensions running to the rear of the trans which allowed me break the bolt loose. Thought i was done.
I had lowered the engine by loosing the engine mounts prior but before attempting to separate i tightened the engine back up and as a precaution placed a 2x8 running under the pan to take up any slack with removal of the trans.
I've raised and lowered my transmission jack but i can't more than 1/8" separation between the two. It appears both engine and trans are moving when i attempt to push back on the trans. Logic says i'm binding but the current separation appears even on the sides and bottom. What am i doing wrong? Could something in my clutch assy be hanging?
Ps used the search in this forum and have the Bentley and the Pelican 101 books
Tia. i workout regularly but today my 64yo body isn't happy.

Porschetech3

Your pilot bearing and the nose of the input shaft of the trans are stuck. I have seen this before and it takes a lot of even prying/force on both sides at 180 degrees apart to get them loose.

Just make absolutely sure you have all the attaching bolts out before going ape on the separation. and yes the engine will have to be supported under the pan/sump or it will ruin the engine mounts.

Mike K

Porschetech3,
Thanks for the quick response and not what i wanted to hear...but i'm flying solo here. What are your thoughts on using a come along from the rear of transmission to some fixed point towards the front of the car. i know it sounds a little shade treeish but that way i could apply bite sized torque while using wood to try and break the eng/trans free. Thanks for your thoughts.

Porschetech3

. Pulling on trans like that will just flex/stress the engine mounts unless you also stolidly secure the engine to the chassis, then it will be a good process.

fpb111

one of these makes it easier for a solo worker.

SIR Tools P-254 Engine Support Bar for 996

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...yesterday.html


https://www.ebay.com/i/382450251153?chn=ps

JTT

When I dropped mine last year, it was hard to separate too. A buddy came over to help, with both of us under the car and with prybars, it finally came loose. One tip is to make sure the engine is supported (I made my own carrier with 2” angle). Then the transmission can be lifted and wiggled Independant of the engine. Angle of tranny and engine must be the same or the shaft can bind.

TexSquirrel

Thanks, I've had a hard time finding one of these.
I just bought one.

cds72911

If you aren’t supporting the front of the engine you are putting all the weight on the point where the transmission input shaft enters the clutch. It is easy enough to make an engine support bar if you are set up to cut and weld. I also have tall jack stand posts with threaded posts that work for some jobs on the lift, but I like the engine support bar for transmission removal.

sweet victory

Thank you so much for sharing! Probably will fabricate my own. Did the SIR tool come with a case by any chance?

JTT

You don’t even need to weld if you don’t want to. I used 2”angle, with 1”flat bar drilled and bolted to it (to mount to sway bar mounts). Drilled another hole and used a large bolt and nut combo for the contact with engine. There are even simpler solutions here on Rennlist however I wanted the ability to adjust height of engine that the adjustable nut and bolt arrangement gave me.

dporto

If you're still struggling with this, my rec. would bee to drop the engine - it really makes everything SO much easier. It is more work, but there's nothing particularly difficult about it. when it comes to doing the Solution (or anything else on the engine for that matter) you'll be happy you did the extra work...

Mike Murphy

You could also get some pieces of wedged wood and hammer tap those into your gap on equal sides. Then go and wiggle your rear wheels back a forth a bit to see if any shaft movement might help.

cds72911

But, in case it wasn’t clear, do not try to remove the transmission in place without suporting the engine with something. If you do, all of the weight is carried by the motor mounts at the back with nothing supporing the forward part of the engine.

cds72911

Not sure how wiggling the rear wheels would help, since the wheels (drive shafts) should be disconnected well prior to this stage. By this point, entire transmission is free, hanging up on the input shaft.

docmirror

I was on a 4 post when i did mine. I had a 4x4 across the ramps holding the front of the engine, and I slid various shims in under the 4x4 to get the right angle, maybe 6-7deg down. Loosen the rear MM and leave them bolted but loose. Once I had that, I could wiggle the trans out.

I also like the idea of wood wedges one per side that can be tapped in alternately.

BTW, putting the trans back in is no joy either.