Ahsai

Are you losing coolant?

D.L.Jehu

Coolant: Not that I'm aware of.

Porschetech3

I agree with Ahsai, check for coolant contamination of your used oil. Something has caused the filter to not flow oil. The big leaf spring is actually a by-pass spring that when the filter will not flow oil fast enough, it will deflect and let oil by-pass the filter media.

Some filter medias as very susceptible to coolant . Most oil filters today are a synthetic or synthetic blend and some glass fiber/resin, but there are still traditional cellulose (paper) ones in the market also that will bind-off is coolant is presented.

D.L.Jehu

Hmm. Good info. You mean like a Blackstone analysis? Visually, there is no phase separation after sitting in a glass jar.
Tell me more about how that spring works. What creates the force downward on the spring?

So how does our hypothesis work? Filter media is clogged lets say. Oil press in front of the filter quickly pops open the relief valve and flow proceeds to the engine bypassing the filter. The pressure sender registers the pressure at it's location - that is, the flow restriction in the system of everything downstream of it's location. Hence, the only way to have a zero reading at the sender for 10 seconds is to have basically zero flow past the sender. That means the oil is not getting to through the relief valve (which was brand new and verified to move freely in it's bore) or after the relief valve it would need to be short circuiting back to the sump without reaching the pressure sender.

I'm not at all discounting what you're saying, and the evidence is that there was something wrong with the filter, but I'm trying to figure it out schematically.

Any advice about the pump housing?

Flat6 Innovations

Please confirm what filter was in place when you had the oil pressure issue.

D.L.Jehu

Bosch 3332.

Flat6 Innovations

Stay away from these, and K&N Filters.

I did all the development work for the LN SPOFA based around the Napa Gold filters made by Wix. These simply cannot be beaten, and they never give pressure issues like you have experienced.

The Napa Gold sounds like a generic filter, where K&N sounds all fancy.
We continually cut apart new filters to e how they change, the Wix never changes, and hasn’t in over a decade of use with the SPOFA.

Stick with Wix and you’ll use the SPOFA as it was developed.

D.L.Jehu

Problem did not exhibit itself until I had +/- 4 or 5k miles on the oil/filter. It is a DD, and I drove it straight through the Green Bay winter. It occasionally did cold starts after work at -10, -20F. Oil is Amsoil Euro 5/40. Symptoms were not present during the cold part of the winter but were shortly after.

D.L.Jehu

Flat6, Awesome and I appreciate your input here and general support of the forum. Can you walk me through the cause of the failure?

Flat6 Innovations

Yeah.. The filter sucks.

On top of that, in your environment a 0/40 oil would be a better fit in those temperatures. The 5/40 just made things worse. Amsoil also has a tendency to have a heavier pour rate, which also doesn’t help.

Porschetech3

Yes, send the sample of the oil that was in the car when for the 3-4k miles prier to the filter binding-off, or test it with some "chem-strips" for testing for coolant. Blackstone or any UOA company do this.

Sorry, I was mistaken about that by-pass, that particular Bosch 3332 does not have an internal by-pass, I was fooled by the hole in the "leaf spring", it looked like there was a by-pass behind that hole, possibly uses the same "leaf spring" assembly as the ones with by-pass.

So, with no by-pass, you are literally waiting for enough oil to pass through the filter and fill the system before it can build any pressure, and if the filter is clogged from dirt, bound-off by coolant contamination, or just a s**ty filter as Jake says, you were waiting 10 seconds.

Here is a link to the test strips, it says for ATF, but works for engine oil also, handy to have for quick results, but just for one use not much less than an UOA..

chem-strip

D.L.Jehu

Mr Tech,
Thanks.

Corvetteboy6988

Wait, so I have to let loctite 5900 cure for 21 days prior to driving the vehicle? Im going to use this on my cayenne valve cover job, its just in 4 small gaps spots, but maybe I should go with dreibond 1209? I want to drive the car after 24hrs at least.

Porschetech3

Of course not, if that were the case professional mechanics would never be able to make a living due to waiting on gasket maker to dry....and they would never use it...lol

It depends on the thickness of the bond... If very thin as most joints are ( less than .5mm) It must be assembled in 10-20 min and it can be put in service in a couple of hours...The thicker the gap the longer it takes, Loctite 5900 will cure to a depth of 10mm in 21 days...( full cure) ....

https://www.grainger.com/ec/pdf/Loct...Data-Sheet.pdf

pdxmotorhead

If your DIY at home, letting it sit overnight before operating isn't a "bad thing" I try and start a lot of these kind of tasks on a day when I can let things sit..
Had to jump in on the Jurassic thread...