Let's talk maximizing performance
02-13-2019, 03:02 PM
#91
Rennlist Member
"now now.... don't make it out to be more than what I'm saying. I'm making the point that taking some lesson isn't going to make you and your car somehow magically faster. Weather its autocross, dragstrip or ripping it up on the street etc. Have some common sense, drive within your boundaries and know the limits of you car."
Different types of racing all carry different skill sets, and they don't necessarily translate from one type of track or car to another. This doesn't mean that a great driver on one CAN'T do well on another - but it's certainly not automatic. The only things that translate directly are the physical and mental abilities of the driver - everything else is LEARNED. The best way to learn anything is through repetition. If you can get this repetition with guidance from a professional driver/instructor you will undoubtedly progress faster than you would without said guidance/instruction.
Different types of racing all carry different skill sets, and they don't necessarily translate from one type of track or car to another. This doesn't mean that a great driver on one CAN'T do well on another - but it's certainly not automatic. The only things that translate directly are the physical and mental abilities of the driver - everything else is LEARNED. The best way to learn anything is through repetition. If you can get this repetition with guidance from a professional driver/instructor you will undoubtedly progress faster than you would without said guidance/instruction.
02-27-2019, 05:36 PM
#92
AutoX
Take a look at:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...clr-intro.html
He has his car down to 1086kg or 2395 lbs, probably for cheaper than you could really add 50 HP to these cars.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...clr-intro.html
He has his car down to 1086kg or 2395 lbs, probably for cheaper than you could really add 50 HP to these cars.
"Simplify then add lightness" or "adding power makes you faster on the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere".
I pretty much stuck to this philosophy; not so much to gain any advantage on a track but in order in improve the driving experience: control weights, connection, tactility, sound, weight transfer during cornering, braking characteristics and so on... I took a total of 559 lbs out of my car with the aim of retaining almost all of the design functionality such as 4 seat layout, NVH levels, carpets, trim...
Adding power would never meet the objectives I set out to achieve: which in simple terms was to produce the best 'drivers' 996 possible. Now the project is pretty much complete I guess I'll have to go out and drive the thing to see if I got anywhere close
02-27-2019, 07:19 PM
#93
Rennlist Member
Personally, if I was taking a 996 to the track, my priorities would be:
http://pcaclubracing.org/wp-content/...cing-Rules.pdf
SP996 rules start on page 26.
- Safety equipment
- Engine reliability: IMS, RMS, deep sump, engine oil cooling, power steering cooling, gearbox oil cooling.
- Braking: better rotors, pads, SS lines, fluid, cooling.
- Handling: weight, tires, suspension, set up.
- Power
http://pcaclubracing.org/wp-content/...cing-Rules.pdf
SP996 rules start on page 26.
02-27-2019, 08:20 PM
#94
Rennlist Member
If you follow the great wise words of Colin Chapman you can't go too wrong:
"Simplify then add lightness" or "adding power makes you faster on the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere".
I pretty much stuck to this philosophy; not so much to gain any advantage on a track but in order in improve the driving experience: control weights, connection, tactility, sound, weight transfer during cornering, braking characteristics and so on... I took a total of 559 lbs out of my car with the aim of retaining almost all of the design functionality such as 4 seat layout, NVH levels, carpets, trim...
Adding power would never meet the objectives I set out to achieve: which in simple terms was to produce the best 'drivers' 996 possible. Now the project is pretty much complete I guess I'll have to go out and drive the thing to see if I got anywhere close
"Simplify then add lightness" or "adding power makes you faster on the straights. Subtracting weight makes you faster everywhere".
I pretty much stuck to this philosophy; not so much to gain any advantage on a track but in order in improve the driving experience: control weights, connection, tactility, sound, weight transfer during cornering, braking characteristics and so on... I took a total of 559 lbs out of my car with the aim of retaining almost all of the design functionality such as 4 seat layout, NVH levels, carpets, trim...
Adding power would never meet the objectives I set out to achieve: which in simple terms was to produce the best 'drivers' 996 possible. Now the project is pretty much complete I guess I'll have to go out and drive the thing to see if I got anywhere close
Last edited by 808Bill; 02-27-2019 at 09:11 PM.
02-28-2019, 02:08 AM
#95
AutoX
Hi Bill, the wheels are genuine Fuchs RSR wheels. They are a very light forged design. I went for these not only for weight and strength reasons but also to maintain the heritage/historical ties of Porsche. They weigh 7.5kg front and 7.7kg rear. Prior to these I did have a one-off set made in a custom off-set but they are no longer fitted to the car:
02-28-2019, 07:47 AM
#96
Rennlist Member
CLR, good to see you back. Any updates on that amazing car of yours?
02-28-2019, 01:27 PM
#97
AutoX
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996 Street AutoX and/or track
Let's start with the car as it sits. a 2001 Carrera with H&R sport springs, K&N intake and Muffler bypasses made by beluga racing (The say racing so they have to be good right!?) The car has had IMS/RMS done along with Clutch, coils/plugs, AOS, etc. The basic safety maintenance stuff.
I'd like to slowly start making the car into a track car that I can go out and enjoy on a lot of these Alabama back roads. Ride quality around town and noise are not concerns. I will probably gut most of the interior and I've got a plan for the suspension but looking for sort of a "road map" to getting the most out of the 3.4. I'm not looking to make huge HP gains or anything like that, just maximize the power available and get it to the ground.
what are some of the standard upgrades for theses engines? I see a lot of talk about plenums and pulleys, etc. Without getting into internals what is sort of the ideal setup to maximize the engines potential? Not looking for "search function" replies, looking to start a conversation. Thanks fellas
I'd like to slowly start making the car into a track car that I can go out and enjoy on a lot of these Alabama back roads. Ride quality around town and noise are not concerns. I will probably gut most of the interior and I've got a plan for the suspension but looking for sort of a "road map" to getting the most out of the 3.4. I'm not looking to make huge HP gains or anything like that, just maximize the power available and get it to the ground.
what are some of the standard upgrades for theses engines? I see a lot of talk about plenums and pulleys, etc. Without getting into internals what is sort of the ideal setup to maximize the engines potential? Not looking for "search function" replies, looking to start a conversation. Thanks fellas
- Knowing what you want (see the caption) Street, AuotX or Track Day - and (big and) you must realize that the more devoted the car becomes to one of those the less adequate it becomes at the others! The factory built it for the street, everything you do will make it less a street car.
- Asking for advice - you're here (rennlist) now and that's very smart! Learn from our mistakes and save yourself a ton of money.
- Know this for a fact - if you are not already a successful professional road racer - you most likely cannot drive the car you have to it's full potential - get lessons and get seat time.
02-28-2019, 03:15 PM
#98
Rennlist Member
Personally, if I was taking a 996 to the track, my priorities would be:
http://pcaclubracing.org/wp-content/...cing-Rules.pdf
SP996 rules start on page 26.
- Safety equipment
- Engine reliability: IMS, RMS, deep sump, engine oil cooling, power steering cooling, gearbox oil cooling.
- Braking: better rotors, pads, SS lines, fluid, cooling.
- Handling: weight, tires, suspension, set up.
- Power
http://pcaclubracing.org/wp-content/...cing-Rules.pdf
SP996 rules start on page 26.
03-01-2019, 04:10 PM
#99
Instructor
+ 1 on the LSD, you'll gain a ton of time with that and you'll have a way bigger smile on your face. I wish I had one at every single autox and track day Ive done in this car. Someone mentioned engine mounts and transmission mounts and I think this can be a huge improvement from a pure enjoyment standpoint. These rubber mounts flex a lot, especially when old or hot, and sometimes it can be hard to find a gear when accelerating hard with any lateral load on the drivetrain. Stiff mounts suck on the road, but they make the car feel so much more precise on track in a number of ways.
Tires and brakes cant be underestimated, so much time to be gained in those two places alone.
I have a LWFW and don't think it adds much other than snappy down shifts and a lot of noise at idle.
I run the M&M catless x-pipe (bought from FVD) and it's great for track use. Loses some power between 3-4k on my 3.6, but it really feels strong all the way to 7k now. Changed the character of the power delivery entirely IMHO. Plus it sounds brilliant. Sounds faster = faster right? lol
Tires and brakes cant be underestimated, so much time to be gained in those two places alone.
I have a LWFW and don't think it adds much other than snappy down shifts and a lot of noise at idle.
I run the M&M catless x-pipe (bought from FVD) and it's great for track use. Loses some power between 3-4k on my 3.6, but it really feels strong all the way to 7k now. Changed the character of the power delivery entirely IMHO. Plus it sounds brilliant. Sounds faster = faster right? lol
03-04-2019, 12:25 AM
#101
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Nothing more
03-04-2019, 12:33 AM
#102
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I think Porsche has already given us 90% of the performance in stock form. Additional mods get exponentially expensive on very small performance increase. First and foremost are the brake mods. For regular street driving the stock pads are great because when you need it, you get the initial bite right away even when it is cold and wet. On the track, after repeated heating, the pads will overheat, not fluid boiling which is a different cause, and the pads become ineffective.
I might get flamed by this suggestion. Spending on driver education to me is the most effective investment. Secondly is track time. Nothing reward you more than getting your butt meter calibrated to know exactly where the limit is. You will be surprised how capable the car is after getting to know how it drives and behaves.
I might get flamed by this suggestion. Spending on driver education to me is the most effective investment. Secondly is track time. Nothing reward you more than getting your butt meter calibrated to know exactly where the limit is. You will be surprised how capable the car is after getting to know how it drives and behaves.
03-04-2019, 12:49 AM
#104
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Learn to drive. Then you can figure out where the next improvement should be made. Furthermore, you will know if you've actually taken a step in the right direction.
Said another way.
Said another way.
12-25-2020, 01:47 AM
#105
Burning Brakes
I have a LWFW, I purchased a balanced set from Patrick Motorsports, one of the only places I had found that offered a lightweight flywheel that had a pressure plate centifically balanced to flywheel.
I know this does not mean the same as a crankshaft balancing procedure that would include all rotating parts that are attached directly or indirectly to crank.
But it does aid in reducing the unbalanced spinning mass.
I know from the "old days" in drag racing, the heavy steel flywheels would increase measured "dyno" and actual torque, leaving the line at high rpms in a heavy car required the heavy fly wheel.
Direct contrast to LWFW that speed up revs, drastically, but the loss of applied torque would be very obvious.
Are there any engineers or engine builders here that know what the torque loss is when a LWFW is utilized in a build?
I can say from my experience , my rear tires are 12.5" of tread contact each.
Before LWFW, when the 5000 RPM launch control was installed via Evoms Stage VI tune, the car would ignite the rear tires. After the LWFW, the engine bogs and drops from 5000 rpm to less than 2500 rpm.
But......, the acceleration coming out of a turn, hitting the apex at the bottom of power band, the LWFW is awesome. It is a huge advantage in autocross.
This contradictory comments on applied torque to the rear wheels has confused me since I installed it.
Any thoughts?
-David
I know this does not mean the same as a crankshaft balancing procedure that would include all rotating parts that are attached directly or indirectly to crank.
But it does aid in reducing the unbalanced spinning mass.
I know from the "old days" in drag racing, the heavy steel flywheels would increase measured "dyno" and actual torque, leaving the line at high rpms in a heavy car required the heavy fly wheel.
Direct contrast to LWFW that speed up revs, drastically, but the loss of applied torque would be very obvious.
Are there any engineers or engine builders here that know what the torque loss is when a LWFW is utilized in a build?
I can say from my experience , my rear tires are 12.5" of tread contact each.
Before LWFW, when the 5000 RPM launch control was installed via Evoms Stage VI tune, the car would ignite the rear tires. After the LWFW, the engine bogs and drops from 5000 rpm to less than 2500 rpm.
But......, the acceleration coming out of a turn, hitting the apex at the bottom of power band, the LWFW is awesome. It is a huge advantage in autocross.
This contradictory comments on applied torque to the rear wheels has confused me since I installed it.
Any thoughts?
-David