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125,000 mile "tune up"

 
Old 01-27-2019, 03:05 PM
  #31  
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Do a leak down test next
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Old 01-27-2019, 03:31 PM
  #32  
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Just some thoughts on the metal vs plastic water pump versions. If either one has a bearing failure and results in impeller wobble to the point of contact with case housing, either would result in complete disassembly to be repaired "right".

As mentioned by FSI and others the plastic impeller will cause pieces to go though coolant passages and could become lodged in small passages in the heads, causing hot spots. These passages will be difficult to clean and ensure flow even with the engine dissasembled.

The metal impeller will cause scoring/gouging of the case but the damage will be a localized area, the debris will be minute and easily flushed out. A far as repairing the case housing not much thought has been given to this since the occurrence is so rare. The options are , the obvious, replace the case, or weld up the damage and machine/grind/sand back to original surface level, or build up surface with epoxy and grind/sand back to original surface clearance to restore efficiency.

Since I prefer the metal impeller, Some other repair procedures that "could be done" but will never happen since the demand is/will be so low. The replacement water pump could be designed with it's "own backing plate" therefore no damage to case will ever happen again and can be used to repair a damaged case. Or a thin backing plate insert could be designed to be installed to take the place of the scored case to restore effeciancy..

That said, knowing all the pro's and con's and all options available if the "death wobble" happens on the water pump, I prefer the metal impeller, I can't stand the thoughts of plastic bits lodged deep in coolant passages in my heads.
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Old 01-27-2019, 05:09 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Scott at Team Harco View Post
Performed a compression check. All are 125 psi, with the exception of one at 120 and one at 130. A lot lower than I would hope for, and expect. Engine was ice cold - actually even colder than that. Additionally the compression tester I used is not of the highest quality, nor is it new. Will plan on testing again when things are back together and I can warm the engine.
Personally, I am less concerned with the number as I am the differences between cylinders. So much can affect the total number, cranking speed, temperature, whether the throttle is open or not all make a difference. You are within 10% from high to low so likely you don't have any compression related issue worth worrying about.

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Old 01-27-2019, 05:14 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by MattBurns View Post
Personally, I am less concerned with the number as I am the differences between cylinders. So much can affect the total number, cranking speed, temperature, whether the throttle is open or not all make a difference. You are within 10% from high to low so likely you don't have any compression related issue worth worrying about.
Agree - that's part of why I am not alarmed. It was quite cold, cranking speed could definitely be a variable and - yes - I forgot to go full throttle...
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Old 01-28-2019, 11:37 AM
  #35  
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Pulled codes yesterday. Found P1128 and P1130. Not terribly concerned at the moment. Found a good thread on what to check/ replace. Will follow-up as needed.

Ordered o-rings for the spark plug tubes. Probably getting a little weeping past some of them. Plan to do a little clean-up of the cam covers (just a brake-clean shower). Will be good to have an idea if there are other leak paths after the plugs, tubes and coils go back in.

Also found a place that offers the owner's manual (Suncoast). It will fight for territory against the DVD box if I can get the "park brake" wire grounded (or whatever the issue is).

Discovered all but one of the undertray clips are gone. They're less than $2 each. Might be able find room in the budget to replace them all.
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Old 01-28-2019, 11:44 AM
  #36  
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I'm enjoying watching your journey, thanks for sharing!
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Old 01-28-2019, 07:40 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by 808Bill View Post
I'm enjoying watching your journey, thanks for sharing!
My pleasure.


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Old 01-28-2019, 08:00 PM
  #38  
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I never realized how different the earlier gauges looked. (oil level, digital speed, odometer)
I thought it was just the top speed on the speedometer, but there's more to it.
I can't believe I hadn't noticed the difference before now.

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Old 01-28-2019, 08:11 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by TexSquirrel View Post
I never realized how different the earlier gauges looked. (oil level, digital speed, odometer)
I thought it was just the top speed on the speedometer, but there's more to it.
I can't believe I hadn't noticed the difference before now.

Truthfully, I like the look of the .2 cluster better than the .1, but what were they thinking putting the digital speed under the analog speedometer? Under the tachometer is a much more logical place in my opinion.
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Old 01-28-2019, 09:13 PM
  #40  
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As far as the cruise control goes- I found the same issue with my 2004 C2. There is a little switch on the clutch pedal linkage that turns the cruise off when you depress the clutch. My switch is a little out of adjustment, but I've found that I can get the cruise control to activate if I pull the pedal towards me with my toe. Eventually I'll replace the switch or try to adjust it so the clutch pedal depresses it more when at the top of its travel.
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Old 01-29-2019, 09:13 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by kevin1981 View Post
As far as the cruise control goes- I found the same issue with my 2004 C2. There is a little switch on the clutch pedal linkage that turns the cruise off when you depress the clutch. My switch is a little out of adjustment, but I've found that I can get the cruise control to activate if I pull the pedal towards me with my toe. Eventually I'll replace the switch or try to adjust it so the clutch pedal depresses it more when at the top of its travel.
I discovered what may have been the problem. I was messing with the wrong lever! My friend let me drive his Cayenne to go and pick my car up. The cruise on his vehicle is lower left. I kept messing with my lower left lever and kept cycling through the information (fuel mileage, distance to empty, etc.)

Looked through the '03 owner's manual and found I should have been messing with this lever, instead...


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Old 01-29-2019, 09:16 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by MattBurns View Post
Truthfully, I like the look of the .2 cluster better than the .1, but what were they thinking putting the digital speed under the analog speedometer? Under the tachometer is a much more logical place in my opinion.
When is the split between .1 and .2? I assume I have a .1
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Old 01-29-2019, 11:26 AM
  #43  
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2001 last .1; 2002 first .2
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Old 01-29-2019, 12:19 PM
  #44  
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I'm not sure if you care, but since you're in a cold/road salt laden are I thought I'd mention a little knowledge I learned the hard way. As I've noted on your photo below (area circled in yellow). Pop these plastic corner pieces off and take a look at the steel underneath. I had some serious rot under there that took quite a bit of work to remedy. If you're interested, this a link to my thread where I documented what I had to do... https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...w-project.html
Oops forgot the photo...


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Old 01-29-2019, 12:59 PM
  #45  
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^^Yup, a lot of road grime gets trapped and stays wet in that area.
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