Taffy Flynn

Had a play with a Durametric today, kept dropping out on the surface pro 3 windos 8.1 i was using. Possibly a USB 3,0 issue. Will try it on my old dell when i get back home. Its really odd in that you can get in, get the cable connected and then run 1 command before it drops out and 'cannot communicate'.
Grabbed a cheap volt meter to adjust the POT while i am away, will try tonight when it cools down from being 40C outside...

Flatlined

Taffy Flynn

I made this video a little while ago and essentially we are at the same stage: Calibration wise it does nothing, no movement at all.

Porschetech3

I may have confused you about the 6.2kohm setting on the clam pot at fully open. I'm referring to the clam shell being fully open (service position )and not the convertible top fully open (which would be clam fully closed).

The clam pot should show above 1.0v when clam is fully open and under 3.9v when clam is fully closed.

Actuate side flaps using PIWIS "drive links" and check for open signal and closed signal from end switches shown in PIWIS.

Using PIWIS "drive links" you can open close clam shell, open and close side flaps, open and close convertible top, open and close top latch, ect, and watch pots, and end switches for proper function.

I am familiar with the "plastic cover" breaking off the latch hook causing the micro-switch in the windshield frame not to show when latched. I use a thin piece of plastic and superglue to the microswitch pad as a "quick fix" to make the top work on occasion. That plastic cover may be available as separate part now..I'll check to see.

Taffy Flynn

Thanks Porschetech3, will see about resetting the POT and getting access to the PIWIS again to run the tests.
I did get a durametric but having some issues getting it to run, keeps dropping out after running for a short time and wont let me see the convertible module at all before it loses sync. Have emailed the support team to see if they can help.
Thanks,
Taffy

drottz

Hello I know it's an old thread but I am stuck at the same place after replacing the driving mechanist. Did you find out where the top should be when setting up the 6.2kOhms.?
Also how do you measure the voltage if not using PIWIS?

thanks in advance

virtual_law

Sorry to butt in but this was the only thread I could find discussing Pot 2 values.
My situation on my '99 c4 cab is a little strange. Top fully cycles, but my clamshell only opens about 95% of the way when lowering the roof. When roof is fully stacked, clamshell closes about 95% again, so that it is not flush with body.
I've looked at all the threads and read the service manuals, and have some theories:
1. When the rams were rebuilt, and before the recalibration, the workshop manual calls for "compartment lid drive screw" to be turned till clamshell reaches a "perceptible stop". I'm guessing my mechanic did not wound that screw out all the way, and started recalibration at 95% of clamshell travel, which the ecu then saved. Is that how it works?
2. The roof itself is working fine. Can I put top in service position using dash switch, go to the rear seats and turn the clamshell drive screw till it's fully open? Does that count as an emergency open and prompt a recalibration?
Here's the pot 2 value readings from my scanner: