When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I purchased a 3.6l from a 2003 C4S at a good discount from a reputable ebay seller that has a chunk missing from the 4-6 cylinder bank cam cover around one of the seals. What would be an economical and robust way to repair this and not have the seal leak? I attached a picture of the cam cover damage.
The issue with using a used cover is that the head and cam cover are line bored together since two journals for each cam are part of the cover. So a different cover could be used, but it would be risky.
I think either way, a new cover or welding, u would have to pull the head and have the seal surface machined. I dont think i would try alumiweld or jb weld in this situation.
just currious, do u know why that section is broken?
The issue with using a used cover is that the head and cam cover are line bored together since two journals for each cam are part of the cover. So a different cover could be used, but it would be risky.
Forgot about that.
I hope OP got a great price on this motor!
I think either way, a new cover or welding, u would have to pull the head and have the seal surface machined. I dont think i would try alumiweld or jb weld in this situation.
just currious, do u know why that section is broken?
The car was in a rear end collision, I purchased it from a dismantler from Ebay. He had a video of the engine running before removal from the car and disclosed the damage. Can anyone recommend machine shop near Pasadena, CA?
I would buy a used cam cover and have it checked for alignment at a competent machine shop. If you repair the current one, you will be putting a lot of heat into it. It will require machining of the hole on the end and will also need to be checked for alignment.
It wouldn't surprise me if a unit off a different engine fit with little or no adjustment/machining.
To use another cover, you have to have the cam bore journals checked and if out of spec would need to be adjusted, which just to check, would require the head removed and cams removed then the cover bolted back together to measure the bearing bore.
I would go with having the damage welded on the cover from a professional aluminum welder, the hole for the rubber cap is not terribly critical and can be a little off, just use some silicon sealer to make sure no leaks, and possibly even bolt a retainer plate over the cap to keep it from popping out. The big brown plug has been notorious about popping out due to back pressure surges when hitting the rev-limit. Race teams such as TRG ( The Racers Group) ALWAYS bolted retainer plates over the big brown cap !!
To use another cover, you have to have the cam bore journals checked and if out of spec would need to be adjusted, which just to check, would require the head removed and cams removed then the cover bolted back together to measure the bearing bore.
I would go with having the damage welded on the cover from a professional aluminum welder, the hole for the rubber cap is not terribly critical and can be a little off, just use some silicon sealer to make sure no leaks, and possibly even bolt a retainer plate over the cap to keep it from popping out. The big brown plug has been notorious about popping out due to back pressure surges when hitting the rev-limit. Race teams such as TRG ( The Racers Group) ALWAYS bolted retainer plates over the big brown cap !!
It is nothing fancy, just a flat plate of 3/16 aluminum with two holes in to mount to existing threaded holes in the head. The holes are offset from the cam cap but still provides adequate tension on the cap since the backpressure surges are only a few PSI, but is enough to pop out the caps.
To use another cover, you have to have the cam bore journals checked and if out of spec would need to be adjusted, which just to check, would require the head removed and cams removed then the cover bolted back together to measure the bearing bore.
I would go with having the damage welded on the cover from a professional aluminum welder, the hole for the rubber cap is not terribly critical and can be a little off, just use some silicon sealer to make sure no leaks, and possibly even bolt a retainer plate over the cap to keep it from popping out. The big brown plug has been notorious about popping out due to back pressure surges when hitting the rev-limit. Race teams such as TRG ( The Racers Group) ALWAYS bolted retainer plates over the big brown cap !!
The process for checking the bore alignment is more complicated than I assumed in my post #8.
Surprised that no one has offered up 2-part epoxy (JB Weld etc.) as a solution. And I'm only half kidding. It wouldn't be pretty oh, but it would work.
For a car I planned on keeping for a long time, I’d attempt a fancy JB job. If I ever sold the car I would certainly be up front with it and let the price reflect what is definitely a new cylinder head
12-20-2018, 10:53 PM
3.6l Damaged Cam Cover Repair?
