dan_189

Yes, OEM only - I recommend you do not buy the metal wheel one it can destroy your block

Splitting Atoms

Sounds like you got one of the rare 996 diesels!

In all seriousness, that ticking is too loud to be the water pump. As others have suggested, take it to a knowledgeable shop for diagnosis. Worst case is it is piston slap due to advanced bore scoring. Best case is it's exhaust plus a bad AOS.

Consider the trip to the specialist to be a PPI (post purchase inspection).

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WonByOne

Good idea. But isnt that why we havehforums, so we dont all spend money having to bring it in? I did call the shop and they will get me in after the holiday. Oil filter inspection doesn't appear to pick up any metal bits, but there does seem to be plastic/rubber shavings. See video. https://youtu.be/PhJ7bbIqCGI

dan_189

I'd say yes and no, you unfortunately need a diagnosis first - then you can attempt a forum guided fix! We have fingers crossed for you it's minor and doesn't require invasive surgery.

I'd check the exhaust though - also that bumper looks aftermarket being a MK1 Carrera 4 - maybe take it off and check out whats going on under it - might as well replace the O2 sensors if you're getting a code. One less thing for the mechanic to tell you about.

Splitting Atoms

It's just very difficult to diagnose issues over the internet. Reasonable probably we will get it wrong and you will spend money on parts unnecessarily.

Plastic pieces are from the chain guide pads. It's normal to see a few. Eventually, they will need to get replaced due to the timing getting off.

WonByOne

I fully agree about getting it checked out, just a little afraid. Good news about fillter! Having trouble getting the new one on the pipe. Is it suppose to smash on? I bought an stp S8278XL, the one that came up on parts store computer...hoping it's just the heat and pipe needs to cool down a bit before sliding on...never mind...pushed it on.

808Bill

Drop the sump before you put oil back in it!

TexSquirrel

Fabspeed exhaust should not cause CEL.
Check the O2 sensor wiring and replace O2 if necessary.
I would do that before taking the car in since you have some time.

Yep, drop the sump yourself.
Jake Raby shows how to do it in his pre-inspection video.
You'll need a 50ml tube of Loctite 5900 flange sealant.
Don't overdo the sealant, if it gets squeezed off inside it can start to clog the oil pickup..
Let it cure for 24 hours before you add the oil.

Mike Murphy

Mbren1979

If you suspect a drive belt item as whats making the noise, remove the serp belt (which is easy) and start the car. That will atleast rule out drive belt components as the noise.

only run it for a minute or two. With no belt you have no water pump or alternator.

WonByOne

Once warm it drops to just above 1 bar. Maybe 1.5. I'm bringing the car in tomorrow to have it scoped and compression tested. Question, they quoted me 2.5 hours just to remove plugs. Am I missing something here? They said it's standard for everywhere. How does a professional mechanic take 2.5 hours to remove plugs? The whole inspection will end up costing $300-$400, just to diagnose. The thing that bothers me is the mechanic already assumes blown head or scoring, without hearing or seeing the vehicle, all because I said there was white smoke.

kondata17

doing plugs on these engines is not a lot of fun. 2.5 hours may be on the higher side, but having just done a set on a boxster (similar ordeal), its a pain. everything is in the way. whats even more fun is removing the header bolts that are likely seized and rusted.

Mbren1979

as a mechanic i can answer that easily. It wont take 2.5 hours. Maybe an hours tops. But book time is book time. Some times we can do the job faster, some times we get screwed. But the way it works is the customer gets charged by the book.

as for the assumption of a head gasket, that is only an assumption based on your conversation to give himself a diagnostic direction to take. That car will tell him what he needs to know based off of testing. You (the customer) simply gave him a road to travel down

Ahsai

Agree that the smoke looks more like steam than burnt oil, which will not dissipate as quickly. It's highly unlikely you have cracked heads on BOTH banks at the same time (smoke comes out from both exhaust) so my guess is coolant ingestion somewhere at the air intake. Could be the throttle body sucking in coolant via a failed AOS.

Re the MAF, it could be because of the K&N air filter setup. Re the O2 sensor codes, you need some new sensors.

Re the knocking noise, if it's not a loose cat, it could be bore scoring or a stuck lifter.

808Bill

Take note, Ahsai knows his stuff!
These need to be scoped from the bottom up. Head gaskets almost never fail on these engines...$300-400 ain't going to cut it.
You bought a project and it's going to cost some money (expect $5K to get it up to snuff) don't drive it until you know what you 're dealing with.