996 base with 50k miles or 996 4 with 85k miles?
#16
Three Wheelin'
My sources say you have 25 lbs of crap in frunk
QED
#17
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Thanks. I can say the base with hardtop is out of the question. Seller won't provide carfax or details on the car.
I mught hold off til after christmas, and go 4s route.
I mught hold off til after christmas, and go 4s route.
#18
Rennlist Member
I'd buy the 4 case closed - The wide body 4 has much nicer cornering and IMO overall better design
80K car is nice sweet spot - Services done, probably new clutch/brakes and you'll have 15K of fun driving and sell before it hits 100K and retain a lot more value.
I've owned 2 996 C2's and 3 996 C4S's and will never buy another narrow body Porsche
Test drive both and do lots of cornering to experience what I am referring to.
Careful w/grey interior - Tend to show dirt and wear faster - Especially Cab sitting in sun.
80K car is nice sweet spot - Services done, probably new clutch/brakes and you'll have 15K of fun driving and sell before it hits 100K and retain a lot more value.
I've owned 2 996 C2's and 3 996 C4S's and will never buy another narrow body Porsche
Test drive both and do lots of cornering to experience what I am referring to.
Careful w/grey interior - Tend to show dirt and wear faster - Especially Cab sitting in sun.
#19
Drifting
I'd just be careful, the C4 and the C4S are quite different. The OP wasn't clear which one he's talking about.
#20
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I'd buy the 4 case closed - The wide body 4 has much nicer cornering and IMO overall better design
80K car is nice sweet spot - Services done, probably new clutch/brakes and you'll have 15K of fun driving and sell before it hits 100K and retain a lot more value.
I've owned 2 996 C2's and 3 996 C4S's and will never buy another narrow body Porsche
Test drive both and do lots of cornering to experience what I am referring to.
Careful w/grey interior - Tend to show dirt and wear faster - Especially Cab sitting in sun.
80K car is nice sweet spot - Services done, probably new clutch/brakes and you'll have 15K of fun driving and sell before it hits 100K and retain a lot more value.
I've owned 2 996 C2's and 3 996 C4S's and will never buy another narrow body Porsche
Test drive both and do lots of cornering to experience what I am referring to.
Careful w/grey interior - Tend to show dirt and wear faster - Especially Cab sitting in sun.
yea c4s would be dope. I will take my time and not just pull the trigger on purchase. It's winter anyway lol... would definitwly test drive both first.
#21
My two cents from the experience of owning both cars. I had the 996 4 and the front differential began to make noise and then leak. Getting a shop to fix it right was a nightmare and very expensive. Furthermore, I did not notice any difference in performance with the way I drive my cars. I consider that option a complete waste of money and I will never make that mistake again. Screw the widebody 4. It will not get you out of a ditch and once the snow is more than a couple of inches it's useless because of how low the car is. Get a Subaru Crosstrek for snow driving. Next., I also had the manual transmission and the pinion gears went bad. Again, trying to find a local shop to fix it was impossible. Those gears require some kind of 50 ton press to get them off...total nightmare again. Even the Porsche specialty shops didn't want to deal with it. These cars are getting up in age and moving parts wear out and fail. The cost of repairing these cars can quickly surpass the purchase price. What's in your wallet? For me any 911 with "4" or "S" is nothing but trouble.
I got rid of that car and bought myself a 1999 996 base with Tiptronic and a hardtop. Best decision I ever made as there is less crap that will fail and is much more affordable. The 1999 also has a dual row IMS so the probability of failure is extremely low. So with that said, these cars are getting older and things will break. When they do break, ask yourself these questions:
1. Can I afford to fix it?
2. Is there a Porsche shop near me that can actually fix it right?
3. Is it worth fixing?
Ask your local Porsche shop how much to rebuild the front differential and manual transmission. Their answer might put things in perspective for you as it did for me. Again, just my two cents. (Hint, hint get a 1999 Base with Tiptronic with a hardtop and as few options as possible).
I got rid of that car and bought myself a 1999 996 base with Tiptronic and a hardtop. Best decision I ever made as there is less crap that will fail and is much more affordable. The 1999 also has a dual row IMS so the probability of failure is extremely low. So with that said, these cars are getting older and things will break. When they do break, ask yourself these questions:
1. Can I afford to fix it?
2. Is there a Porsche shop near me that can actually fix it right?
3. Is it worth fixing?
Ask your local Porsche shop how much to rebuild the front differential and manual transmission. Their answer might put things in perspective for you as it did for me. Again, just my two cents. (Hint, hint get a 1999 Base with Tiptronic with a hardtop and as few options as possible).
Last edited by michaelo; 10-31-2018 at 12:31 AM.
#22
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Get what you want. It's a 911 fer cripe sakes. Color, int, options, year, mx, history. Something will come along and you'll hit 777. Grab it up and enjoy. Wait for the right one, no compromise.
#23
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My two cents from the experience of owning both cars. I had the 996 4 and the front differential began to make noise and then leak. Getting a shop to fix it right was a nightmare and very expensive. Furthermore, I did not notice any difference in performance with the way I drive my cars. I consider that option a complete waste of money and I will never make that mistake again. Screw the widebody 4. It will not get you out of a ditch and once the snow is more than a couple of inches it's useless because of how low the car is. Get a Subaru Crosstrek for snow driving. Next., I also had the manual transmission and the pinion gears went bad. Again, trying to find a local shop to fix it was impossible. Those gears require some kind of 50 ton press to get them off...total nightmare again. Even the Porsche specialty shops didn't want to deal with it. These cars are getting up in age and moving parts wear out and fail. The cost of repairing these cars can quickly surpass the purchase price. What's in your wallet? For me any 911 with "4" or "S" is nothing but trouble.
I got rid of that car and bought myself a 1999 996 base with Tiptronic and a hardtop. Best decision I ever made as there is less crap that will fail and is much more affordable. The 1999 also has a dual row IMS so the probability of failure is extremely low. So with that said, these cars are getting older and things will break. When they do break, ask yourself these questions:
1. Can I afford to fix it?
2. Is there a Porsche shop near me that can actually fix it right?
3. Is it worth fixing?
Ask your local Porsche shop how much to rebuild the front differential and manual transmission. Their answer might put things in perspective for you as it did for me. Again, just my two cents. (Hint, hint get a 1999 Base with Tiptronic with a hardtop and as few options as possible).
I got rid of that car and bought myself a 1999 996 base with Tiptronic and a hardtop. Best decision I ever made as there is less crap that will fail and is much more affordable. The 1999 also has a dual row IMS so the probability of failure is extremely low. So with that said, these cars are getting older and things will break. When they do break, ask yourself these questions:
1. Can I afford to fix it?
2. Is there a Porsche shop near me that can actually fix it right?
3. Is it worth fixing?
Ask your local Porsche shop how much to rebuild the front differential and manual transmission. Their answer might put things in perspective for you as it did for me. Again, just my two cents. (Hint, hint get a 1999 Base with Tiptronic with a hardtop and as few options as possible).
Yea will take my time and pick what I really want no compromise.
#25
Are you looking for a deal or have the car in tip top shape at time of purchase?
Not to hijack thread, but have a 02 C4 / Tip / Convertible with Hard top in triple blue. 61K miles for $16.5
Rather car go to rennlister than auction.
Not to hijack thread, but have a 02 C4 / Tip / Convertible with Hard top in triple blue. 61K miles for $16.5
Rather car go to rennlister than auction.
#26
Then again, this one looks to be pretty well sorted out.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post15399202
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post15399202
#27
Three Wheelin'
Then again, this one looks to be pretty well sorted out.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post15399202
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post15399202
#29
Racer
It seems like the C4 is the better deal. What you should look on is, what would be the value of the car after adding 30k miles to both. That would determine which is the better value to start out with. I definitely would go for the C4 with the better maintenance history. I am all about maintenance history, so which ever is maintained better is what I go for.
#30
Rennlist Member
So, what exactly are you looking for? Did you go test drive the other two last weekend?