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Blue Chip, how is your splitter attached? I have a cup splitter I need to install, but I’m not sure it will clear my trailer when loading, so I was considering using dzus fasteners to make it removable. I’m open to ideas though.
Blue Chip, how is your splitter attached? I have a cup splitter I need to install, but I’m not sure it will clear my trailer when loading, so I was considering using dzus fasteners to make it removable. I’m open to ideas though.
I ran the same issue. My last trailer wouldn’t clear. This one, with Race Ramps does (barely). It’s attached with stainless screws. I ran the idea of quarter turn fasteners for a while (if this didn’t clear). I would do the same with the Toth splitter if needed. My next splitter will be custom with Aluminum-plast
Great build!! - I am heading in a similar direction but with slightly different components, some questions if I may.
Do you have bhp and torque figures for your motor?
What weight is the car?
What offset are your front wheels? Do you have any rubbing issues with 245's? Are you running adjustable thrust arms to get the correct caster? what camber do you run?
I see you have added dive planes/cannards to increase front end, have you carried out the mods to the radiator airflow to further help?
This ^ - Although when fitting a GT2 chimney you do not have to block the current radiator vent holes in the bottom of the bumper as all of the air is directed straight into the duct and out of the bumper vent - It makes a different once over 75 and a noticeable difference once over 100.
In addition, if you haven't already, remove the front radiator cowls and slot the front wing liner so as the air that travels through the rads and is direct straight into the wheel well as oppose to hitting the rad cowl and being directed at a 90' angle to under the car. - Once complete fill in the hole in the liner that sits under the radiators and use 997 GT3 upper air guide in the wheel well to direct the air onto your brakes (997 air guides are hugely cheaper than 996, but do require a little modification)
Great build!! - I am heading in a similar direction but with slightly different components, some questions if I may.
Do you have bhp and torque figures for your motor?
What weight is the car?
What offset are your front wheels? Do you have any rubbing issues with 245's? Are you running adjustable thrust arms to get the correct caster? what camber do you run?
I see you have added dive planes/cannards to increase front end, have you carried out the mods to the radiator airflow to further help?
Thanks
Going off of memory here - the HP was somewhere near the 380 mark. I actually need to get the car re-dyno'd and weighed for some NASA stuff. I haven't weighed the car since removing more weight from it - but I believe I'm in the low 2800 range right now.
Offsets are 46f/60r. I do have some rubbing with the NT01's at full lock - but barely. The Hoosiers clear just fine. I am running adjustable thrust arms on the car. Current camber is 3.3f, 2.7r.
I haven't done anything yet as far as flipping the center radiator, stacking the exhaust, or blocking. That's coming down the road a bit.
Next steps will probably be more weight reduction. I'm not going 'Slakker' on it and doing the wiring - but I see a FG hood, lexan side and rear windows, and an eventual re-skin of the roof with FG. Of course - I could also actually remove the stereo and speakers - but I like my music while waiting on the grid. I'll eventually get a roll bar mounted bluetooth speaker and call it good.
Going off of memory here - the HP was somewhere near the 380 mark. I actually need to get the car re-dyno'd and weighed for some NASA stuff. I haven't weighed the car since removing more weight from it - but I believe I'm in the low 2800 range right now.
Offsets are 46f/60r. I do have some rubbing with the NT01's at full lock - but barely. The Hoosiers clear just fine. I am running adjustable thrust arms on the car. Current camber is 3.3f, 2.7r.
I haven't done anything yet as far as flipping the center radiator, stacking the exhaust, or blocking. That's coming down the road a bit.
Next steps will probably be more weight reduction. I'm not going 'Slakker' on it and doing the wiring - but I see a FG hood, lexan side and rear windows, and an eventual re-skin of the roof with FG. Of course - I could also actually remove the stereo and speakers - but I like my music while waiting on the grid. I'll eventually get a roll bar mounted bluetooth speaker and call it good.
Would love to know how "difficult" a roof reskin would be. Have considered it LONG before actually getting a 996 as a sunroof delete. I've seen it done in E46 BMWs (Vorshlag did one) and it was on a shop car. Cant imagine what a body shop would charge.
I know it isn't the same thing, but it is close enough to give a data point. I did a roof reskin on a VW, replacing a sunroof roof with a flat roof panel. It wasn't difficult, just lots of drilling out spot welds (buy spot weld bits), grinding and rewelding. If you're only removing it, you have less metal work to deal with. I'm sure a body shop or fellow racer can recommend the right adhesive to bond a composite roof panel onto the steel shell.
I know it isn't the same thing, but it is close enough to give a data point. I did a roof reskin on a VW, replacing a sunroof roof with a flat roof panel. It wasn't difficult, just lots of drilling out spot welds (buy spot weld bits), grinding and rewelding. If you're only removing it, you have less metal work to deal with. I'm sure a body shop or fellow racer can recommend the right adhesive to bond a composite roof panel onto the steel shell.
Sounds like it would take more time than technique... intrigued to say the least
Funny when you go back and look at where it started. I really need to document everything that's been done to this car.... this was the day I brought it home... and yesterday after getting the last of the parts back from paint after my 'oops' at Sebring.
“Oh the places you'll go! There is fun to be done! There are points to be scored. There are games to be won. And the magical things you can do with that ball will make you the winning-est winner of all.”
im sure these mods are functional for track days but in my honest opinion it looks worse now. But im sure Itll do faster lap times now
im sure these mods are functional for track days but in my honest opinion it looks worse now. But im sure Itll do faster lap times now
Yes - every mod was done to improve lap times. Don't get me wrong - I appreciate your opinion - I have struggled with some of the things as well. I find the looks of the stock 996.1 with aero to be refined, classy, and well balanced. The car that it has turned into is no longer representative of where it started (in my opinion).
Yes - every mod was done to improve lap times. Don't get me wrong - I appreciate your opinion - I have struggled with some of the things as well. I find the looks of the stock 996.1 with aero to be refined, classy, and well balanced. The car that it has turned into is no longer representative of where it started (in my opinion).
Im with you on the factory Aero 996.1 cars with the Sport Design wheels. One of my favorite 911 designs EVER!!!
Had an opportunity to test the front and rear aero this weekend at Sebring for the 3 day event.... I had a Pro in the car for one session - Chris Hall. Amazing experience to have someone like him give his input. The car is very well balanced right now with minimal push caused by the wing. The canards and splitter seem to have the right effect on the front of the car.
Brakes have seen better days - so moving from the old PFC06's to Pagid blacks all the way around. I find that I'm having to use too much pedal input for too long to slow the car - this is cooking the fluids much faster than I should be.
Add speed, add brakes. Simple as that. Demonspeed RS uprights, Apex SM10 wheels Joe Toth fg canards
11-10-2018, 09:08 PM
