Notices
996 Forum 1999-2005
Sponsored by:

Popping sound on slow right turns

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-16-2018, 10:20 AM
  #1  
dkraige
Pro
Thread Starter
 
dkraige's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 740
Received 46 Likes on 29 Posts
Default Popping sound on slow right turns

Recently have replaced all 4 lower coffin arms and diagonal forked links, aligned car, and checked everything is tight. I now have a new popping/clunking sound that was not there before. The only way I can reliably reproduce it is making a tight right turn at walking speed. As I turn a corner, when the wheel gets to about 180 degrees to the right, I get a slight popping/clunking sensation. When I unwind the wheel I might feel it again, like something is popping back into place, but not every time. I cannot get it to make the sound when turning left; only right. I also can't feel anything when the car is up in the air, even if I put a jack under the suspension to load it while turning the wheels.

It's pretty hard to tell exactly where it's coming from. I'd say it's felt mostly through the floor of the car; MAYBE a little through the steering wheel, but really it seems more like it's in the body. I did not notice it immediately after replacing components; it showed up more like 2-3 weeks later.

Things I can think it would be:

A DOA ball joint on one of the new coffin arms - anybody ever heard of this?
An upper strut mount (these are about 2 years and 10k miles old)
Swaybar links (these are looking pretty tired but I can't feel any play in them when prying on they by hand)
Steering rack
Wheels/tires catching on some kind of underbody stuff? (can't find any evidence of this)

I'm wondering if replacing the tired control arms has now put more load into the swaybar links, or something else, and exposed a weakness. It seems like it has to be suspension/steering related, but for the life of me I can't find anything loose.

My first course of action will be to replace all the swaybar links since those are cheap, but beyond that I'm stumped and hesitant to just throw parts at it. Anybody have ideas or experience?

UPDATE: Solution was re-torquing inner control arm bolts. Link

Last edited by dkraige; 10-18-2018 at 02:07 PM.
Old 10-16-2018, 10:28 AM
  #2  
808Bill
Rennlist Member
 
808Bill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Kauai
Posts: 8,054
Received 805 Likes on 543 Posts
Default

If any of your bushings, links etc. are original it's time to change them...
Old 10-16-2018, 10:57 AM
  #3  
DBJoe996
Rennlist Member
 
DBJoe996's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 5,800
Likes: 0
Received 1,085 Likes on 697 Posts
Default

Inspect carefully your tie rods, inner and outer.
Old 10-16-2018, 01:15 PM
  #4  
dporto
Rennlist Member
 
dporto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: L.I. NY
Posts: 6,778
Received 1,154 Likes on 791 Posts
Default

Make sure the top-mount bearings (that sit between the top of the spring and the topmounts) are functional. It sounds like they might be binding/releasing... #11 in this diagram http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=402-00
Old 10-16-2018, 01:42 PM
  #5  
dkraige
Pro
Thread Starter
 
dkraige's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 740
Received 46 Likes on 29 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dporto
Make sure the top-mount bearings (that sit between the top of the spring and the topmounts) are functional. It sounds like they might be binding/releasing... #11 in this diagram http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=996-99-05&section=402-00
Certainly a possibility; would be disappointing since they are only ~10k miles old. I'm going to try disconnecting both swaybars to see if the sound goes away.
Old 10-16-2018, 11:33 PM
  #6  
Mike Murphy
Rennlist Member
 
Mike Murphy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 8,707
Received 1,578 Likes on 985 Posts
Default

Could it be the rear differential? What about any loose wheel lug bolts?
Old 10-17-2018, 12:20 AM
  #7  
fpb111
Rennlist Member
 
fpb111's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 5,535
Received 93 Likes on 69 Posts
Default

C2, C4, year?
Old 10-17-2018, 07:37 AM
  #8  
dcdrechsel
Rennlist Member
 
dcdrechsel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 559
Received 36 Likes on 32 Posts
Default

Several years ago there was a post of a strange front end noise -the solution was to retorque the steering rack .Could be a wild goose chase but...………...
Old 10-17-2018, 08:53 AM
  #9  
Avinaashb
Intermediate
 
Avinaashb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: NYC
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

I have something similar when Turing left! I’ll try to replicate this weekend. Please keep us updated on your findings.
Old 10-17-2018, 10:04 AM
  #10  
dkraige
Pro
Thread Starter
 
dkraige's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 740
Received 46 Likes on 29 Posts
Default

After triple checking everything I believe it was the inner bolt holding the LF control arm to the subframe. Items 4-5 below. It was not "loose", per se, but was not at the full torque value, so must have been just loose enough for the control arm and bolt to slop around on the that hole under load, moving a fraction of a millimeter and sending a clunk through the floor. After retorquing it I can't reproduce the noise. Marked it with a paint pen to monitor whether it loosens up over time. Hopefully fixed!
Old 10-18-2018, 07:33 AM
  #11  
dcdrechsel
Rennlist Member
 
dcdrechsel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 559
Received 36 Likes on 32 Posts
Default

great
Old 10-18-2018, 12:49 PM
  #12  
Hardback
Rennlist Member
 
Hardback's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Miami, Fl.
Posts: 1,562
Received 28 Likes on 16 Posts
Default

Check your wheel hubs, when I went 2wd we had to replace the hubs as they were in really poor shape and made similar noises. Car had around 85,000 miles at the time.
Old 10-18-2018, 01:13 PM
  #13  
USNA1970
Instructor
 
USNA1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Hamden, CT
Posts: 232
Received 9 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

I had a creak noise when apply brakes. It turned out that I had to tighten the diagonal control arm supports. It's part number 3 in the post above. The torque value is something close to 118, so it needs to be tight to prevent that creaking noise.
Old 10-19-2018, 06:17 PM
  #14  
fpb111
Rennlist Member
 
fpb111's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 5,535
Received 93 Likes on 69 Posts
Default

Just to be sure you saw the arrow on the arm and corresponding arrow on the frame. They should be lined up pointing at each other before you tighten the arm, so that you don’t have too much preload on the rubber bushing when you let the car down.



Quick Reply: Popping sound on slow right turns



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 12:26 AM.