Introduction
 

I apologize if there is a introduction thread. I didn't see it. My name is Joe and I live in Utah. I do not currently own a 996 but am looking into purchasing one in the near future and I want to see what the problem issues are. I consider myself mechanically inclined and generally do my own repairs.

I am looking at a 2001 Porsche 911 with 149k miles on it. I would prefer to get something with less miles but I think this will be a good way for me to purchase a Porsche. This will not be my daily driver. I would initially conduct a shake down and upgrade and enjoy some auto cross.

Are there any specific questions to ask with that kind of mileage? I am looking at the car wednesday. It sounds as though the clutch was replaced recently. It has a small oil leak that I plan on investigating when I see it.

I will search the forums but can are parts available at local napas or dealer's only mainly?

PK:Welcome! Your post is in the proper place.

Last first: parts are available in numerous places including dealer's(OEM and expensive), Pelican Parts, Warehouse33, Auto Atlanta, Sun Coast Porsche, Porsche Atlanta Perimeter Parts and there are many more. You can find them on-line.

I am far from an expert but here would be my concerns from what I've learned in four years:
Search this forum for repetitive issues. Don't be alarmed some are blown up bigger than life but knowledge is a good thing.
During clutch change was IMSB, RMS(either could be your oil leak which would require transmission drop) and AOS changed?
Any records of repairs/maintenance on car?
Has Water pump and thermostat been changed?
Has radiator water tank been changed...recently?
Plugs, coils and injectors changed?
What do tires look like? Are they the same manufacturer? Get down on your hands and knees to look at rears as they tend to wear on the inside first.
Look, listen and smell car while running/driving. One can learn a lot by depending on your senses. Listen for ticking, knocking or chunking in engine and suspension.
Check to make sure all the accessories work...windows, locks, horns, sunroof...etc.
Check a CarFax type document for any big issues.
If you still feel comfortable don't buy car without a through Pre-Purchase-Inspection
Keep in mind with that type of mileage and age, unless someone has super maintained the car, there will be issues.
These are just cars but have some unique issues.
They are easily(not necessarily cheaply) maintained.
Of course check body for alignment issues and possible repair tell-tails.

Welcome.
first porsche?
149k miles? I would want lots of recent maintenance records. If not, I'd look for something with under 100k miles...plenty out there.
good luck! They are amazing machines.

It is my first Porsche.

I am probably going to get flamed for this but my idea would be once the engine dies to do a LS swap. That is my plan as of now. Never even driven a Porsche. I may change my mind after driving it.

I asked for maintenance records. The guy is having a kid and has it listed for 11k. I anticipate some issues at that price. I am told everything works and runs well. I will let you guys know how it looks. Since this is not a primary ride, I am limited in what I want to spend.

LS swap?! Yeah that's going to bring out some opinions. Lot of work and money, but if done right it would be thrilling. If you do the LS do it right not like the youtube dude who used a junk yard LS to save money and guess what it blew up too. I have considered doing an LS if necessary as well, however, to do it right would run the money level up to where I could buy a completely rebuilt and upgraded "track happy" weapon from a certain expert in Georgia! There are a lot of choices out there.

$11k depending on condition is a good starting point. Please do keep us updated.

Welcome PK
:cheers:

Find a trusted independent Porsche mechanic in your area and have him do a Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI). A good one will cost a few hundred dollars but could save you $11k.

+1

You won't believe what can be found out by a PPI.

Murph: I believe he said $11k.

Reading is so overrated!
Welcome Joe, as others have said, get as much documentation as you can. At $11K expect a few thousand of maintenance needed over time. Good way to get your feet wet, these are marvelous machines!

I figured I would give a update. The search continues. I looked at the vehicle and it was nice. The service history for the vehicle stopped 2-3 years ago on this vehicle and despite being well priced, I think I am going to spend a little more and get less miles. I am looking at a few other ones around 20k. I have increased my budget to 20k, preferably staying around 17.5k. Any experience with bring a trailer? If anyone sees anything, feel free to shoot me a message. I am in utah but open to a good deal.

$20K should bring you a much nicer car.
I'd still consider paying for a PPI even with lower miles.
I know someone who has bought and sold on BAT.
The only problems I see with BAT and 2ndcar.com is that you normally can't inspect the car yourself, nor can you pay for a PPI.
Also since it is an auction, you can get caught up in the "I'm not going to lose this car over X dollars, I'll bid a little higher...again" mentality.


www.2ndcar.com was started by some guys I know.
Don't click on the link above if you don't have a lot of time on your hands, they have some magnificent cars there!

Bring a trailer usually has pretty decent cars, as they are somewhat picky about what they'll sell. A few quick points.
a) "a small oil leak"... There are several different types of leaks you'll see on a M96 - with differing end results and levels of difficulty to repair.
1) RMS - this will show as a drip or oily area at the seam where the engine meets the transmission - generally speaking this leak is not a big deal depending on how bad it is. Normally it's not more than a mist or very light weep. The problem is that in order to get to the RMS the transmission needs to be dropped - not a small job...
2) IMSB - If the flange is leaking it will present exactly like the RMS from the outside. Big problem is that it's located just below the RMS so you also have to remove the tranny to get to it. In other words, if you've got oil dripping at the seam between the engine and transmission, plan on dropping the tranny (at the very least) in order to figure out exactly what's going on. Once you see exactly what's leaking you can formulate a plan to fix it. Do as much research as possible before tearing the car apart so you've got an idea of what you're getting into. Obviously, an IMSB leak is not what you want to see, as it's not a good sign. It's possible that it's just the flange leaking - but not probable...
3) Spark Plug Tubes - If you've got oil dripping down on or near the exhaust headers or gathering along the bottom edge of the cam covers there's a good chance it's coming from one or more of the spark plug tubes. Of course it's also possible that the chain tensioners and/or the cam covers are leaking (the chain tensioners are torqued to around 60 ft/lbs so if the proper crush washers were used they shouldn't leak).
4) AOS - big pita... This located on the front of the engine (drivers side closest to back seats). At the very least, you'll have to drop the engine a few inches and remove some ancillaries to gain enough room to access and replace if necessary.
5) Oil Cooler - These can leak from/at the O-Rings, seeing as it's located on the top of the engine it would have to be leaking a lot or for a long time before anything showed.
6) Oil Pan/Sump/Drain plug - This is pretty obvious, but I'd be remiss not to mention it... :cheers:

As you can see, a "small oil leak" can turn out to be super simple or, anything but... Certainly not something you'd want to drop off at a dealer or even an Indy to do "an exploration" on... Get's expensive real quick. They're pretty straight forward to work on as long as you research potential problems first. Good luck

Welcome and good luck find a nice car.