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Door Lock Assembly DIY Fix gone wrong. Door won't close

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Old 08-30-2018, 02:10 PM
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Jonathan H
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Default Door Lock Assembly DIY Fix gone wrong. Door won't close

I was facing issues with the passenger window not dropping when it should so I took apart the door and removed the door lock assembly. I took it apart and re-soldered a couple of cracked solder joints. I reassembled and the window now functions as it should but the door lock does not latch; i.e. I can't close my door! I can manually turn it to the locked position but it does not click into place... it just springs back to open position.

I walked around to drivers side and if I manually turned the latch it clicked into place in two different positions, both of which release if i turn the lever that the handle cable attached to. I decided to remove the driver door lock assembly for comparison to be sure I reassembled correctly. Once the driver door lock assembly was out it still functioned with the two click positions and successful release. I took it apart, compared, made adjustments to the passenger assembly, and reassembled both. After reassembling passenger lock assembly it still didn't latch. After reassembling the driver door lock assembly it still latched but when I installed it then it stopped latching. Now I can't close either door!

Any ideas here? Is there a mechanical reset or perhaps I have a lever on the wrong side of something? The mechanical portion is riveted so I might have to drill them out so see more. I know several have attempted the door lock assembly electrical and/or microswitch repairs in the past... but did any of you have MECHANICAL issues with the assembly after reassembling?

I have googled and searched extensively and did not see anyone else experience this. I wouldn't think it's a complete part failure considering both latches worked fine yesterday morning.
Old 08-30-2018, 02:19 PM
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wyovino
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Few people disassemble the latches - they just replace them . I replaced my drive side latch when the window wouldn't stay down when the door was open. It felt like more of a mechanical issue than a switch problem. Did you lose a spring or reattach it incorrectly?
Old 08-30-2018, 02:27 PM
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Jonathan H
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Thanks for the response bill. I'm fairly certain that I reattached it correctly and I did not lose any springs. I called a dealership for kicks and they quoted $550 and $600 for the door latch assemblies lol. Used ones on eBay are $60 and I ordered a couple but I don't want to wait a week to close my doors.

Really frustrating to fix one problem and create another. And then create yet another trying to fix the created problem.
Old 08-30-2018, 02:39 PM
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rogazilla
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I replaced the assembly, so can't contribute to how to fix the assembly. Just wondering if the central lock on the dash is lit up? have you try to hit it and see if it attempts to lock the door? (i.e the motor makes noises)
Old 08-30-2018, 02:52 PM
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Jonathan H
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Originally Posted by rogazilla
I replaced the assembly, so can't contribute to how to fix the assembly. Just wondering if the central lock on the dash is lit up? have you try to hit it and see if it attempts to lock the door? (i.e the motor makes noises)
Yes I could hear the locking actuator function. Not sure about the light. both assemblies are currently out of the car
Old 08-30-2018, 03:05 PM
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Ahsai
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You may want to retrace how you reassemble the units. I suspect something is not aligned and its preventing the latch from locking.
With the electrical portion removed, do they lock at all?
Old 08-30-2018, 03:18 PM
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Jonathan H
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Originally Posted by Ahsai
You may want to retrace how you reassemble the units. I suspect something is not aligned and its preventing the latch from locking.
With the electrical portion removed, do they lock at all?
With the electrical portion removed they do not latch. I have read a couple stories of people's boxster door not closing and them cycling the locks a few times and it starts working or randomly the next day it starts working. That seems to imply that something electrical can reset something in the enclosed mechanical section but it would be more useful to have sound logic of what/where/how.
I agree that it is likely something is not properly aligned... Since I have replacements ordered I may drill into one and poke around
Old 08-30-2018, 03:25 PM
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DBJoe996
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Wow! Okay...I have no experience with the door latch and its functions. That being said, it is an electro-mechanical mechanism. I think that you are going to have to figure out what part of the mechanism is not functioning. To have both sides exhibit the same problem leads me to think that it is something common to both, and you should step back and really study both mechanisms to figure out what is wrong. To go from a functioning drivers side door latch to removal and reinstall and not have it work right tells me something right there. Are you connecting up the wiring harness when you reinstall?
Does the window drop on either side? Is the battery disconnected?
Latches here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=804-00
Old 08-30-2018, 04:50 PM
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Jonathan H
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Originally Posted by DBJoe996
Wow! Okay...I have no experience with the door latch and its functions. That being said, it is an electro-mechanical mechanism. I think that you are going to have to figure out what part of the mechanism is not functioning. To have both sides exhibit the same problem leads me to think that it is something common to both, and you should step back and really study both mechanisms to figure out what is wrong. To go from a functioning drivers side door latch to removal and reinstall and not have it work right tells me something right there. Are you connecting up the wiring harness when you reinstall?
Does the window drop on either side? Is the battery disconnected?
Latches here http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-p...section=804-00
All work done with battery disconnected. Battery reconnected once everything assembled and hooked up. Windows drop and then raise if I push/hold the door on the striker. There's just no mechanical click. Both worked fine yesterday morning. It stinks that the mechanical portion is pretty much completely enclosed and held together with rivets and rivet-like permanent junctions. I can't really see what is going on in there or could be going on in there.

Really regretting taking the drivers side apart to troubleshoot passenger side issues haha. I'm having the daydream equivalent of nightmares that some transients are parting out my car like the airplane in Lord of War.

Old 08-30-2018, 05:11 PM
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wyovino
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As strange as it sounds it could be a coincidence. Not likely, but not out of the question. I replaced my passenger side outer handle micro switch to fix the window drop issue. When I was all done and very proud of myself I went to get into the drivers side and found that the driver side latch had failed. Absolutely no connection to what I had been working on as it was a mechanical issue, not an electrical one. The latches are expensive - I think I paid around $300 for mine and I know they've gone up since then.

Having said that, make sure that the the little metal tab from the key lock is engaged in the driver side latch mechanism. It's possible to get the lock in place without having that correctly lined up. I don't know if this would cause the symptoms that you're seeing but it's worth checking.
Old 08-30-2018, 09:13 PM
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Jonathan H
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Originally Posted by wyovino
As strange as it sounds it could be a coincidence. Not likely, but not out of the question. I replaced my passenger side outer handle micro switch to fix the window drop issue. When I was all done and very proud of myself I went to get into the drivers side and found that the driver side latch had failed. Absolutely no connection to what I had been working on as it was a mechanical issue, not an electrical one. The latches are expensive - I think I paid around $300 for mine and I know they've gone up since then.

Having said that, make sure that the the little metal tab from the key lock is engaged in the driver side latch mechanism. It's possible to get the lock in place without having that correctly lined up. I don't know if this would cause the symptoms that you're seeing but it's worth checking.
Thanks for sharing your similar experience.

UPDATE:
I just got both latches working mechanically! I misaligned the lock lever into the hole where it meets the latch lever on the driver side and there were stuck parts in the passenger side. I made a couple videos that are way too long to watch for fun but I showed how to take the assembly apart and how the latch and lock work. I'll post links here for future adventurers assuming all goes well with final installation.

Thank you everyone for weighing in. Hopefully I'll be able to sleep tonight with my doors locked! And Gig'em Aggies.
Old 08-30-2018, 09:19 PM
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Ahsai
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Old 08-31-2018, 11:47 AM
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Looking forward to the videos as I have a passenger side lock mechanism to replace!
Old 08-31-2018, 12:18 PM
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Good news...!
Old 08-31-2018, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by bbboomer67
Looking forward to the videos as I have a passenger side lock mechanism to replace!
passenger side latch is plentiful on ebay, around $50. often the identical part from a 986 can be found for even cheaper. driver is rarer and more expensive (~$100).


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