Notices
996 Forum 1999-2005
Sponsored by:

Need some help

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-14-2018, 02:09 PM
  #1  
rporzio
Pro
Thread Starter
 
rporzio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tampa FL
Posts: 672
Received 13 Likes on 9 Posts
Default Need some help

Been working on replacing suspension components on my 04 C2; shocks, struts, mounts, bearings, sway bar links, motor mounts, trans mount etc and came across an older thread about lower control arms being deteriorated over time. I had a look with my USB camera and it did look like the only one I looked at was torn (passenger front). The car does have 88k, no track and is always garaged. Do people replace just the bushings for all these components (control arms and links front/rear) or is it not worth the trouble and just buy the whole piece(s) say from Pelican Parts? Thanks so much for any help advice you can give... Ralph
Old 08-14-2018, 02:23 PM
  #2  
Chris(MA)
Burning Brakes
 
Chris(MA)'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: California
Posts: 879
Received 149 Likes on 67 Posts
Default

Bushings can be a pain in the butt to swap out, unless you have a nice hydraulic press to get them in and out. I think a lot of people just swap the whole arms out.
Old 08-14-2018, 02:24 PM
  #3  
cds72911
Drifting
 
cds72911's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: VT USA
Posts: 2,417
Received 148 Likes on 122 Posts
Default

I think a lot of people just swap out all of the components as units rather than the bushings themselves, but it is absolutely possible to replace/upgrade bushings. Depends upon how much time, mechanical skill and what kind of shop you have (do you have a hydraulic press?). It also depends upon whether you are looking to upgrade. You can go spherical bushings, polyurethane (Powerflex) or even upgraded rubber (Elephant Racing has them). You can even get bushings with different mounting offsets to compensate for alignment issues from lowering.
Old 08-14-2018, 02:29 PM
  #4  
rporzio
Pro
Thread Starter
 
rporzio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tampa FL
Posts: 672
Received 13 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

Ok good advice, I want to stay stock; sport suspension option, and just asked my mechanic that same question and his answer was the same as yours (replace the whole component). So, I'll need 4 lower control arms and 4 control arm links to do both the front and rear, correct? I'm looking @ the Meyle's on PP unless someone advises different...
Old 08-14-2018, 02:34 PM
  #5  
Gptoyz
Instructor
 
Gptoyz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

If your control arms in good shape - the car handle so much better with the right arrangement of powerflex and spherical bushings - rubber sucks unless you like that floaty vague feeling

if you can't operate a hydraulic press to DIY this, it would be very costly to sub this out to a mechanic in terms of time. But if you can DIY it, you can save a ton of money over buying replacement control arms
Old 08-14-2018, 02:39 PM
  #6  
rporzio
Pro
Thread Starter
 
rporzio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tampa FL
Posts: 672
Received 13 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

No, hydraulic press has been ruled out. I do want to stay as close to stock components as I can so even though the powerflex may increase the handling capabilities I don't want to take a chance and introduce any more noise or vibration to what I currently have and really like... So Gptoyz, do you think it's still a good idea to just bite the bullet and buy the whole component(s) instead of attempting to repress new bushings everywhere?
Old 08-14-2018, 04:52 PM
  #7  
TexSquirrel
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
TexSquirrel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Richmond, TX
Posts: 5,261
Received 2,389 Likes on 1,266 Posts
Default

I replaced mine with the $64 Üro control arms on RockAuto.
With the extra 5% discount, I went ahead and bought an extra for either a spare, or a customer car.
I've put about 9000 miles on them and they're fine so far.
$256 to replace all four sure beats $424each from Porsche!
Old 08-14-2018, 04:57 PM
  #8  
rporzio
Pro
Thread Starter
 
rporzio's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tampa FL
Posts: 672
Received 13 Likes on 9 Posts
Default

wow Tex, I'll say. Did you replace the control arm links as well? Thanks so much for the tip... Ralph
Old 08-14-2018, 05:27 PM
  #9  
Gptoyz
Instructor
 
Gptoyz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2017
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by rporzio
No, hydraulic press has been ruled out. I do want to stay as close to stock components as I can so even though the powerflex may increase the handling capabilities I don't want to take a chance and introduce any more noise or vibration to what I currently have and really like... So Gptoyz, do you think it's still a good idea to just bite the bullet and buy the whole component(s) instead of attempting to repress new bushings everywhere?
If you are having someone else do the work; the cost of labor is probably more expensive than replacing the whole part, so I would go with replacing the whole structure. As far as uro vs lem, meyle or OEM. I would go with an OEM supplier over uro - your factory parts lasted nearly 2 decades and 88k miles - that speaks for quality!

Also yes rock auto rocks hahha but use pelican as your measuring stick to see what factory and OEM suppliers cost.

Another company to consider is fcpeuro - they offer lifetime warranty on all parts they sell!
Old 08-14-2018, 05:43 PM
  #10  
TexSquirrel
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
TexSquirrel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Richmond, TX
Posts: 5,261
Received 2,389 Likes on 1,266 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by rporzio
wow Tex, I'll say. Did you replace the control arm links as well? Thanks so much for the tip... Ralph
No, but I'll be replacing them soon when I do the coilovers and the adjustable drop links and rear toe links.
Then I'm moving on to adding a center radiator and a 2qt deep sump.
Old 08-14-2018, 05:49 PM
  #11  
TexSquirrel
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
TexSquirrel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Richmond, TX
Posts: 5,261
Received 2,389 Likes on 1,266 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Gptoyz
If you are having someone else do the work; the cost of labor is probably more expensive than replacing the whole part, so I would go with replacing the whole structure. As far as uro vs lem, meyle or OEM. I would go with an OEM supplier over uro - your factory parts lasted nearly 2 decades and 88k miles - that speaks for quality!
I agree, but I was able to fix them all at once for little $ right after buying the car.
I needed to get rid of some creaking that was driving me crazy!
Had I been buying just one or two, I would have gone with an OEM supplier.
At least I didn't go with the $38 Ultra-power ones.
The Üro ones are made in Germany at least.

Surely I'll eventually replace the front ones with adjustable ones.
Then I'll have even more good spares.

Last edited by TexSquirrel; 08-14-2018 at 06:04 PM.
Old 08-14-2018, 06:15 PM
  #12  
Byprodriver
Rennlist Member
 
Byprodriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: So.CA
Posts: 3,454
Received 173 Likes on 135 Posts
Default

Keep an eye on those URO's I put one on my car & about 3,000 miles later I saw the bushing had dropped an inch lower with only the track arm keeping it from coming out. Pelican refused to warranty it too.
Old 08-14-2018, 06:25 PM
  #13  
TexSquirrel
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
 
TexSquirrel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Richmond, TX
Posts: 5,261
Received 2,389 Likes on 1,266 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Byprodriver
Keep an eye on those URO's I put one on my car & about 3,000 miles later I saw the bushing had dropped an inch lower with only the track arm keeping it from coming out. Pelican refused to warranty it too.
OK, I'll be in there in the next few weeks.
I finally feel like I have the strength to tackle the suspension job...but now I'm kinda tied up.
Teaching a basic automotive maintenance class this Saturday and doing six free oil changes.
I'll report back if the Üros are not holding up.
Old 08-14-2018, 06:39 PM
  #14  
Ahsai
Nordschleife Master
 
Ahsai's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 7,328
Received 62 Likes on 47 Posts
Default

My experience is any part that involves plastic and rubber (e.g., rubber mounts, gaskets, window regulators, etc.), the brand makes a difference. Usually the OE and OEM belong to one class (similar performance) followed by second tier, which are much cheaper but don't last as long.
Old 08-14-2018, 06:48 PM
  #15  
sasilverbullet
Rennlist Member
 
sasilverbullet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 3,225
Received 738 Likes on 383 Posts
Default

Amcpilot and I just replaced the rear coffin arms this morning. The symptoms were, a "creaking" sound from the rear when driving slow over bumps". The old ones were the originals and were in bad shape, the right rear I think would have failed catastrophically soon.

83K on an 03, replace yours!


Quick Reply: Need some help



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 09:57 AM.