964 RS Engine mounts
#1
Race Car
Thread Starter
964 RS Engine mounts
Hey all,
Probably should have started this thread before I bought my 964 RS engine mounts but oh well.
Anyone have any feedback on the installation and performance of them? I'm referring to RS mounts not semi solid mounts in general.
There are plenty of threads on the Wevo and RSS but not a whole lot on the genuine semi solid RS mounts - assuming they are slightly tricky to install because they are all in pieces.
Also for anyone that has installed them did you use your original top mounting bolts and did you add the washers as shown here:
Here is the parts breakdown, I noticed the 964 retaining bolts weren't threaded to the top so I assumed i'd need to use my original mounting bolts on top and the bottom.
Thanks!
Probably should have started this thread before I bought my 964 RS engine mounts but oh well.
Anyone have any feedback on the installation and performance of them? I'm referring to RS mounts not semi solid mounts in general.
There are plenty of threads on the Wevo and RSS but not a whole lot on the genuine semi solid RS mounts - assuming they are slightly tricky to install because they are all in pieces.
Also for anyone that has installed them did you use your original top mounting bolts and did you add the washers as shown here:
Here is the parts breakdown, I noticed the 964 retaining bolts weren't threaded to the top so I assumed i'd need to use my original mounting bolts on top and the bottom.
Thanks!
#2
Rennlist Member
I had the RS mounts on my 4S. You will notice a big difference compared to the soft original mounts. The rear end will feel screwed together. Engine will not flex on its mounts during hard cornering or change of direction. They made a big improvement for track days but can be somewhat harsh on bad roads or over expansion joints. I lived with the compromise. No added vibration to speak of. Also improved shifter feel to an extent.
#3
Race Car
Thread Starter
I had the RS mounts on my 4S. You will notice a big difference compared to the soft original mounts. The rear end will feel screwed together. Engine will not flex on its mounts during hard cornering or change of direction. They made a big improvement for track days but can be somewhat harsh on bad roads or over expansion joints. I lived with the compromise. No added vibration to speak of. Also improved shifter feel to an extent.
Were the RS mounts tricky to install? Did you use the same mounting bolts + the gold washers that come in the kit?
#4
#5
Race Car
Thread Starter
Thanks, I guess you used the mounting bolts that came in the kit.
I'm not sure if I need to use my original bolts + washers or get new bolts. I ordered the parts I needed so it wasn't really a kit so it doesn't come with the new mounting bolts.
Although I've seen that the 996 bolts are threaded all the way up the bolt, whereas the 964/993 bolts are only half threaded.
996:
M8 x 40
964/993:
M8 x 45
I'm not sure if I need to use my original bolts + washers or get new bolts. I ordered the parts I needed so it wasn't really a kit so it doesn't come with the new mounting bolts.
Although I've seen that the 996 bolts are threaded all the way up the bolt, whereas the 964/993 bolts are only half threaded.
996:
M8 x 40
964/993:
M8 x 45
Last edited by dan_189; 07-03-2018 at 07:55 PM.
#6
Race Car
Thread Starter
Received the kit yesterday from 5150motorsport.
Can anyone confirm the main bolt length they used on a 996?
Compared to the spare original mounts I have the bolt looks too short?
Or does the engine carrier bracket/engine get lifted higher until it's touching the bottom washer and as such the additional length isn't needed?
Can anyone confirm the main bolt length they used on a 996?
Compared to the spare original mounts I have the bolt looks too short?
Or does the engine carrier bracket/engine get lifted higher until it's touching the bottom washer and as such the additional length isn't needed?
#7
Rennlist Member
I cannot answer your question directly, but I do remember that my mount bolts seemed a lot longer than they needed to be on the stock mounts.
Last edited by Mike Murphy; 09-10-2018 at 09:36 AM.
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#8
Race Car
Thread Starter
#9
Race Car
Thread Starter
Hey all,
Wanted to do this on the weekend but still not confident enough to tackle it.
Also i've just noticed the these washers that came in my kit are much thicker, they are 5mm and there are two of them so 100m of washer. They look much thinner in this image posted by SoCal. Any ideas??
Wanted to do this on the weekend but still not confident enough to tackle it.
Also i've just noticed the these washers that came in my kit are much thicker, they are 5mm and there are two of them so 100m of washer. They look much thinner in this image posted by SoCal. Any ideas??
#10
Rennlist Member
I don’t see the issue. A motor mount is a pretty simple device. As long as those bolts are tight and don’t loosen up, I don’t think there’s much to worry about, except not propping/supporting the engine during the process.
If you start with the right side and make sure you’re able to replace that one, you will know that the left side will work as well. The left is harder to get to with the secondary air pump that needs to be moved out of the way.
If you start with the right side and make sure you’re able to replace that one, you will know that the left side will work as well. The left is harder to get to with the secondary air pump that needs to be moved out of the way.
#11
Race Car
Thread Starter
Thanks, the few concerns I have are:
- are the 964/993 RS bolts long enough
- when I remove the old mounts will I have to raise the engine so the carrier meets the bottom of the new mount?
Bought a brand new 3 ton 70mm low profile jack and planning on also using some jack stands just in case too.
Just unsure of what happens movement wise when I undo the 18mm bolt guessing/theoretically nothing because the weight of the engine is supported by the jack, right?
- are the 964/993 RS bolts long enough
- when I remove the old mounts will I have to raise the engine so the carrier meets the bottom of the new mount?
Bought a brand new 3 ton 70mm low profile jack and planning on also using some jack stands just in case too.
Just unsure of what happens movement wise when I undo the 18mm bolt guessing/theoretically nothing because the weight of the engine is supported by the jack, right?
#12
Drifting
With the car on jackstands on the rear jack points (supporting the body) and a jack under the engine (supporting the rear of the transaxle), you can remove the motor mounts and replace them one at a time without any concern.
#14
Rennlist Member
Thanks, the few concerns I have are:
- are the 964/993 RS bolts long enough
- when I remove the old mounts will I have to raise the engine so the carrier meets the bottom of the new mount?
Bought a brand new 3 ton 70mm low profile jack and planning on also using some jack stands just in case too.
Just unsure of what happens movement wise when I undo the 18mm bolt guessing/theoretically nothing because the weight of the engine is supported by the jack, right?
- are the 964/993 RS bolts long enough
- when I remove the old mounts will I have to raise the engine so the carrier meets the bottom of the new mount?
Bought a brand new 3 ton 70mm low profile jack and planning on also using some jack stands just in case too.
Just unsure of what happens movement wise when I undo the 18mm bolt guessing/theoretically nothing because the weight of the engine is supported by the jack, right?
No Jack standards. I placed a wood block between the jack and engine. I then started to jack up the engine - watching it rise maybe 2” or so, taking note to make sure nothing at the top of the engine hits the rear deck ceiling. I figured my mounts were sagging, and if I lifted the engine weight (about 400lbs), then the engine wouldn’t fall. The bolts that held my engine in place were very long - maybe 4” past the nut. So you will see right away if you aren’t supporting the engine.
#15
Burning Brakes
I did what Murphyslaw says.
I also needed a large breaker bar to loosen lower nuts. Even after soaking them.
I also needed a large breaker bar to loosen lower nuts. Even after soaking them.