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Some things can be genuine and OEM - for example clutch master cylinder I bought from Sachs had the Porsche part stamp but the part number ground off!
However in this case I agree - go genuine on the tank especially for such a critical part - "OEM" I feel is a term that is very loosely thrown around by parts suppliers...
If your cap is still turning past tight to loose again, I’d say you still have an issue. This is not the way this is designed to work. How do you know it’s pressurized to Porsche spec? Pressurization raises the boiling temp, which helps the coolant work obviously.
Overheating on in these cars are no joke. They have weak spots already, they don’t need help from us. It’s super expensive, but I’d go with a true OEM.
I tend to agree that the cap shouldn’t turn past a certain point. In fact, the day I bought my car and drove it 200+ miles home, I lost the cap somewhere along the way (I suspect it wasn’t tight enough and rattled off). I bought a new cap (version 04 is the newest, correct cap) from a Porsche dealership that tried to charge me $75 (LIST Price). Once I negotiated a resonable price, the cap went on and is tight.
To be honest, if I were ever to have to replace my coolant tank, I’d fit a new cap to it before installation to make sure it all fits...
The cap doesn't turn past right any more. It only did that when it was over filled and not to allow fluid to escape. Both my original OEM cap and two new replacements (one OEM brand, one genuine Porsche cap which is what's on it now) all acted the same way. And based on the fact that there's a drainage route built into the tank, it's clear to me that the cap allows excess fluid out when overfilled and hot.
The mechanic pressure tested the system properly and it held pressure for a long time. He checked it to spec initially (10 minutes or something) and on the second tank he checked it for a long time.
Finally, note that the car NEVER ran hot on me. I swatc it to make sure, especially with this going on.
No, that's from one of the hoses or clamps leaking while under pressure (ie, higher RPM) and then spraying. I had a factory clamp fatigue on me and it caused that. If the tank over flows via the cap, it's designed to allow it to drip around like gutters on a roof, to a hose that drains behind the left rear tire.
In this pic, you'll see how it's wet around the cap area, but the "gutter" directs coolant around to the lower left area where there's a drain hole. You'll also notice coolant stains from my prior leak on the hoses when my clamps weren't sealing properly. (it's all fixed now)
I found a bit of coolant below the three way coolant tube. I thought it was replaced during the PPI. I know they told me that the coolant smell I noticed was coming from there. It doesn't look like a new hose to me. I can't get a hold of the mechanic today to double check.
Oh well, I ordered a new hose and figured I might as well go for new expansion tank too. I don't think mine is leaking but it served its time.
My thought on the expansion take as preventive, based on my experience, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. That's probably contrary to most stuff/people here, I know, but my original tank was working fine until I put a new one in. I forget, what happens if a tank fails? Does it just leak and then you do the job then or is there catastrophic failure that leaves you stranded?
That being said, I did mine at the same time I did the AOS and water pump, so it's not like I was going to drop the motor and put it back with the 18 year old tank in there.
My thought on the expansion take as preventive, based on my experience, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. That's probably contrary to most stuff/people here, I know, but my original tank was working fine until I put a new one in. I forget, what happens if a tank fails? Does it just leak and then you do the job then or is there catastrophic failure that leaves you stranded?
That being said, I did mine at the same time I did the AOS and water pump, so it's not like I was going to drop the motor and put it back with the 18 year old tank in there.
Depends on where the failure is. If it’s just a crack at the top, it might just leak. That is, until it gets really hot out, and that’s when pressure can build up and cause a really big leak. If it’s at the bottom, leaking coolant can increase.
Im with you, though. If it looks good, ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
^^This is correct^^ 996.1 tank (Genuine Porsche) is $663.95 or some silly price like that... SunCoast has one for around half of that - they say it's genuine Porsche, but I'm not so sure.
11-15-2018, 05:14 PM
