Feal Coilover suspension install question
#1
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Feal Coilover suspension install question
I purchased Feal coilovers and received them about a month ago.
I’m going to install them in early July, once I finally finish chemo treatments.
I have a 2002 996 that has a stock suspension with about 58K on it.
Am I going to need adjustable drop links in order to get it properly aligned?
Anything I might need/want to purchase before I start?
I’d normally take a look before starting, but right now I don’t feel like jacking up the car to take a look.
I’d like to get all the parts ready so I can get started as soon as I feel like it.
I hate not feeling like working on cars.
Looking forward to doing some wrenching!
I’m going to install them in early July, once I finally finish chemo treatments.
I have a 2002 996 that has a stock suspension with about 58K on it.
Am I going to need adjustable drop links in order to get it properly aligned?
Anything I might need/want to purchase before I start?
I’d normally take a look before starting, but right now I don’t feel like jacking up the car to take a look.
I’d like to get all the parts ready so I can get started as soon as I feel like it.
I hate not feeling like working on cars.
Looking forward to doing some wrenching!
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imhighlander (04-01-2023)
#2
Congrats on finishing your chemo from a fellow survivor!
No, you won't need adjustable drop links to get an alignment.
Depending on your mileage, "while you're in there" types of things might be to replace some of the related suspension bits, like track arms, lower control arms, or even the drop links, but you would be fine staying with the oem style.
If the suspension isn't making a lot of thumps and creaks, you might be fine leaving the rest of it alone, and replacing it down the line if/when it gives you trouble.
Good luck!
No, you won't need adjustable drop links to get an alignment.
Depending on your mileage, "while you're in there" types of things might be to replace some of the related suspension bits, like track arms, lower control arms, or even the drop links, but you would be fine staying with the oem style.
If the suspension isn't making a lot of thumps and creaks, you might be fine leaving the rest of it alone, and replacing it down the line if/when it gives you trouble.
Good luck!
#3
Rennlist Member
Drop links don’t really effect alignment per se’. It really depends on how much you lower the car. You want to be sure that your sway bars are “unloaded” when the car is sitting on a level surface. Fixed drop links make this difficult or impossible once the car is lowered. So, the short answer is; yes you’ll probably need adjustable drop links.
#4
Rennlist Member
I purchased Feal coilovers and received them about a month ago.
I’m going to install them in early July, once I finally finish chemo treatments.
I have a 2002 996 that has a stock suspension with about 58K on it.
Am I going to need adjustable drop links in order to get it properly aligned?
Anything I might need/want to purchase before I start?
I’d normally take a look before starting, but right now I don’t feel like jacking up the car to take a look.
I’d like to get all the parts ready so I can get started as soon as I feel like it.
I hate not feeling like working on cars.
Looking forward to doing some wrenching!
I’m going to install them in early July, once I finally finish chemo treatments.
I have a 2002 996 that has a stock suspension with about 58K on it.
Am I going to need adjustable drop links in order to get it properly aligned?
Anything I might need/want to purchase before I start?
I’d normally take a look before starting, but right now I don’t feel like jacking up the car to take a look.
I’d like to get all the parts ready so I can get started as soon as I feel like it.
I hate not feeling like working on cars.
Looking forward to doing some wrenching!
Good choice on the Feal coilovers, they are a great product and customer service from Feal was excellent for me. I installed them myself and had no issues at all. Sorry to hear about the chemo.
#5
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Thanks for the info!
I’ll add the Tarret drop links afterwards if it’s not going to cause problems right away.
I don’t plan on lowering much at all.
This is my daily driver.
But I’d like to be able to autocross or take it to the track occasionally.
Thats why I wanted something adjustable.
I plan on installing the coilovers myself, and trying to set my own alignment.
I have a quality Schwaben camber gauge and wheel mount kit, and Tenhulzen toe plates, so I have the tools.
I just need to figure out how to do a proper alignment.
I’ll probably see how close i can get it, and then take it to someone else to get it done right for the street.
Thanks for the well wishes!
Only 3 more weeks to go.
The hardest part is not feeling like playing out in the garage...or even going for a drive.
I’ll add the Tarret drop links afterwards if it’s not going to cause problems right away.
I don’t plan on lowering much at all.
This is my daily driver.
But I’d like to be able to autocross or take it to the track occasionally.
Thats why I wanted something adjustable.
I plan on installing the coilovers myself, and trying to set my own alignment.
I have a quality Schwaben camber gauge and wheel mount kit, and Tenhulzen toe plates, so I have the tools.
I just need to figure out how to do a proper alignment.
I’ll probably see how close i can get it, and then take it to someone else to get it done right for the street.
Thanks for the well wishes!
Only 3 more weeks to go.
The hardest part is not feeling like playing out in the garage...or even going for a drive.
#7
I’ve got different coilovers but they aren’t that low . I found I needed adjustable toe links in the rear . I tried running the stock links for a while at the max of the adjustment and after a while the bent slightly . So I added tarret toe links , and in the Frount I added adjustable drop links because using the stock ones results in a lot of sway bar preload
I wish I had added the toe and drop links when I put the coilovers on
I wish I had added the toe and drop links when I put the coilovers on
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#8
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With the long weekend, and my being caught up on customer’s cars, today is the day that I finally install my Feal coilovers.
I bought adjustable front drop links and adjustable rear toe links.
I've got a new set of control arms handy in case I find any needing replacement.
I also picked up new plastic shields for above the struts that I plan on cutting holes large enough that I can adjust the rebound without having to remove the shields.
I’ll keep a set as it came from the factory.
I also have a set of GT3 brake ducts.
Glad I found them for cheap, they really are not a lot larger than the ones already on the car.
Definitely not needed for on the street.
The car is up in the air and I got a chance to look underneath the front.
The Üro control arm I installed in front last year look ok. I haven’t checked the others.
It appears that the ride height is going to lower 1.5” with the coilovers set to their maximum height.
I think that will look great.
I can’t believe these coilovers have been waiting to be installed for around 4 months.
BTW, I had my first post-treatment checkup last week and the doctor said there’s no cancer.
I bought adjustable front drop links and adjustable rear toe links.
I've got a new set of control arms handy in case I find any needing replacement.
I also picked up new plastic shields for above the struts that I plan on cutting holes large enough that I can adjust the rebound without having to remove the shields.
I’ll keep a set as it came from the factory.
I also have a set of GT3 brake ducts.
Glad I found them for cheap, they really are not a lot larger than the ones already on the car.
Definitely not needed for on the street.
The car is up in the air and I got a chance to look underneath the front.
The Üro control arm I installed in front last year look ok. I haven’t checked the others.
It appears that the ride height is going to lower 1.5” with the coilovers set to their maximum height.
I think that will look great.
I can’t believe these coilovers have been waiting to be installed for around 4 months.
BTW, I had my first post-treatment checkup last week and the doctor said there’s no cancer.
The following 6 users liked this post by TexSquirrel:
996fried (04-22-2021),
brontosaurus (04-20-2021),
imhighlander (04-01-2023),
paddlefoot64 (08-05-2020),
thurstonpowers3 (06-17-2020),
and 1 others liked this post.
#9
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Hello TexSquirrel,
Do you have pictures of the install that you could share? I will begin my install after vacation and once I get all this fishing season over with. So with a 1 inch drop that I am shooting for, I guess I'll go look for some adjustable drop links too.
Thank you,
Vincent.
Do you have pictures of the install that you could share? I will begin my install after vacation and once I get all this fishing season over with. So with a 1 inch drop that I am shooting for, I guess I'll go look for some adjustable drop links too.
Thank you,
Vincent.
#10
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Hello TexSquirrel,
Do you have pictures of the install that you could share? I will begin my install after vacation and once I get all this fishing season over with. So with a 1 inch drop that I am shooting for, I guess I'll go look for some adjustable drop links too.
Thank you,
Vincent.
Do you have pictures of the install that you could share? I will begin my install after vacation and once I get all this fishing season over with. So with a 1 inch drop that I am shooting for, I guess I'll go look for some adjustable drop links too.
Thank you,
Vincent.
Starting after church.
It appears that you’ll have to drop at least 1.5 inches.
Thats using the included 30mm spacers.
But I‘ll get more accurate measurements when I get the old Bilsteins out.
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#12
#13
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Congrats on the check up!
#14
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Sorry, I always seem to forget to take pictures when I'm working on cars.
But I can give you my experience and advice.
I've done strut R&R on lots of different vehicles.
(In fact the day before yesterday I did a strut & shock R&R on a Honda Odyssey)
If you're considering installing Feal coilovers on your 996, I suggest you have the following:
1) A friend to help
2) Air tools
3) Prybar
4) Jack and jack stands
5) Deep and shallow sockets, ratchet, and open end wrenches
6) Narrow 14mm open end wrench for front drop links
7) Ratcheting 17mm open end wrench for rear drop links
8) rubber dead blow hammer
9) Ball joint removal tool
10) punch
11) Regular hammer (use to hit the punch)
12) Cheater pipe for bolts without space for an impact wrench
13) Magnetic pickup tool
14) 5+ hours spare time
15) Somewhere to get an alignment
Feal coilovers are a LOT lighter than most struts, including the factory Porsche struts.
They were a real relief after doing the HEAVY Honda struts on Saturday.
I installed the 16mm spacer on the front coilovers.
I left the coilovers at their maximum height.
The Feal coilovers lowered my car more than I'd expected and wanted, but I guess I can live with it.
I think the front height is slightly higher than the rear, but I'm going to wait until after my alignment to measure and possibly lower the front any more.
I went to a place that had been recommended and they told me they no longer do Porsche alignments.
The car was pretty sketchy to drive there and back.
I hope to get an alignment somewhere tomorrow.
But I can give you my experience and advice.
I've done strut R&R on lots of different vehicles.
(In fact the day before yesterday I did a strut & shock R&R on a Honda Odyssey)
If you're considering installing Feal coilovers on your 996, I suggest you have the following:
1) A friend to help
You can accomplish 95% by yourself, but you'll need someone's help when you're installing the new struts...unless you can be both above and below your car at the same time
2) Air tools
Impact wrench always makes the job easier
3) Prybar
To get the rear strut bottom mount free
4) Jack and jack stands
Do it safely or don't do it!
5) Deep and shallow sockets, ratchet, and open end wrenches
Make sure you have 10mm, 14mm, 15mm, 16mm, 17mm, 18mm, 19mm, 22mm10mm socket -for Bose bracket inside the car.15mm deep socket -for the rear strut top nuts(3 per side)16mm, 18mm, 22mm wrenches/sockets -for the control arms and tie rods19mm wrench ---used it somewhere I think. Adjustable front drop links perhaps?14mm deep socket - I think was the correct size of the front strut top nuts (3 per side)
6) Narrow 14mm open end wrench for front drop links
7) Ratcheting 17mm open end wrench for rear drop links
non-ratcheting ok, just a little (or a lot) slower
8) rubber dead blow hammer
9) Ball joint removal tool
to remove front control arm and tie rod from wheel carrierDon't use a pickle fork, use the correct tool.
10) punch
used to drift the rear struts bottom bolt out
11) Regular hammer (use to hit the punch)
12) Cheater pipe for bolts without space for an impact wrench
13) Magnetic pickup tool
You need this for ANYTHING you ever do to a car
14) 5+ hours spare time
It took me just under 6 hours with three 15 minute breaks.I also installed adjustable drop links and adjustable rear toe links
15) Somewhere to get an alignment
Feal coilovers are a LOT lighter than most struts, including the factory Porsche struts.
They were a real relief after doing the HEAVY Honda struts on Saturday.
I installed the 16mm spacer on the front coilovers.
I left the coilovers at their maximum height.
The Feal coilovers lowered my car more than I'd expected and wanted, but I guess I can live with it.
I think the front height is slightly higher than the rear, but I'm going to wait until after my alignment to measure and possibly lower the front any more.
I went to a place that had been recommended and they told me they no longer do Porsche alignments.
The car was pretty sketchy to drive there and back.
I hope to get an alignment somewhere tomorrow.
#15
Rennlist Member
1) A friend to help
You can accomplish 95% by yourself, but you'll need someone's help when you're installing the new struts...unless you can be both above and below your car at the same time
9) Ball joint removal toolto remove front control arm and tie rod from wheel carrierDon't use a pickle fork, use the correct tool.
I hope to get an alignment somewhere tomorrow.Couple of comments/questions. On 1) I found it fairly painless to do suspension swaps solo. Never hurts to have a third hand though. On 9) which ball joint separator tool did you get to work for the rear LCAs? I couldn't get my good separator (like this: ) to work on my rear LCAs. Ended up using a pickle fork separator. Didn't end up damaging anything except a couple dings in the old LCAs. But it would be real easy to tear a boot, or gouge the arm if you're not careful.