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Anybody else using these with their 996? I have a pair I use with my 928. I tried today to use them on my 99 Cab, which they are also supposed to work on. They were fine on the passenger side but kept tilting on the driver side. I would get within an inch of being able to place my 3 ton jackstands and they would start to tilt. Scared the heck out of me.
I use mine all the time - no "tilting"... Check your jacking points on the side that's tilting (drivers side). It sounds to me like they're bent/crushed. As long as the nibs stay inserted in the jack point, it should be ok, but you're going to have to be the ultimate judge when you're lifting the car... Good luck
What are you able to do with the lift bars over just using the rear jack point?
I think the idea is to use a floor jack to lift one side of the car (as opposed to just one corner, as when using the jack point). Once raised, jackstands are placed at each end of the bar and the jack can be moved to the other side.
I think the idea is to use a floor jack to lift one side of the car (as opposed to just one corner, as when using the jack point). Once raised, jackstands are placed at each end of the bar and the jack can be moved to the other side.
^^This^^ is correct - Much quicker and easier than doing it corner to corner...and super solid once on the stands. Same goes for lowering the car - one pump up, remove both stands and lower it down. One caveat being that if your car is lowered, you have to raise the car a bit in order to fit the jack (even a low profile) under the lift bar. I made 4 platforms out of 2x10's that I put in front of the wheels and drive onto.
Are you guys sure about the Porkens?? I still have my set from my S4 that I sold recently (pictured) and was wondering if the pad spacing is correct for the 996, especially since I plan to rebuild and refinish the calipers after a previous owner had painted them on the car with expected results.
I had never heard of these bars and never found anything searching which is why I attempted my own version last fall.
I spent about $20.00 at the local metal supply using their 'bargain bin'. I've only used mine to span the two front jack points. As someone mentioned, I had to put the front tires on booster blocks to get clearance.
[QUOTE=gcthree;14993900]Are you guys sure about the Porkens?? I still have my set from my S4 that I sold recently (pictured) and was wondering if the pad spacing is correct for the 996, especially since I plan to rebuild and refinish the calipers after a previous owner had painted them on the car with expected results. [/QUOTE]
According the the website 86.5-95 928, 996, 997 and 991 are all interchangeable.
I’m wondering if there is something wrong under my car. The bar is very close to the unibody on the driver side or maybe somebody did mess up the jack point.
Are you guys sure about the Porkens?? I still have my set from my S4 that I sold recently (pictured) and was wondering if the pad spacing is correct for the 996, especially since I plan to rebuild and refinish the calipers after a previous owner had painted them on the car with expected results. [/QUOTE]
According the the website 86.5-95 928, 996, 997 and 991 are all interchangeable.
I’m wondering if there is something wrong under my car. The bar is very close to the unibody on the driver side or maybe somebody did mess up the jack point.
Just take a look at the jack point that's giving you the problem - it should be obvious if there's damage to it. As for the 928 bars fitting a 996 - I wouldn't assume anything. In fact I would doubt they're fit, but who knows... A measuring tape should be able to figure it out. As for the home made lift bars, they look great - beautiful job! He seemed to say he measured them for the front jack points. The problem with lifting this way is that they will interfere with any work you need to do under the car - i.e. - even removing the under-body-plastics would be difficult with the bar under them, not to mention reaching the bar from the front of the car. Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but lifting from the side is better for obvious reasons (working on the bottom of the car...).
I had never heard of these bars and never found anything searching which is why I attempted my own version last fall.
I spent about $20.00 at the local metal supply using their 'bargain bin'. I've only used mine to span the two front jack points. As someone mentioned, I had to put the front tires on booster blocks to get clearance.
Those are exactly what I am attempting to build! What gauge of steel did you use for the tube if you don't mind me asking?
Any V shaped stands and these bars are great. Notice ends are round stock where you place stands. As you lift from center the bar spins freely with the car. They also have a slight v shape so the car sits in the pins on the jack points and the bar itself does not touch the car frame. Only needed two pieces of 2x10 to drive back tires up on to have enough room for low profile jack and bar.
Last edited by Willys 47; 10-14-2022 at 01:52 PM.
Reason: Add info
^^^^ Big fan of this type of lift bar! Used the Liftbars for years. You can use them with Esco axle top for max safety and stability. The axle tops allow the bar to remain stable when I drop the sides incrementally. The round part of the bar has a lip to prevent fore/aft shift of the bar when on the stands (and helps me align the bar when I’m standing midpoint at the jack. I like that I can get the car in the air in 5 minutes with minimum fuss.
The square-stock bars shown are great for 911s when used with the flat top stands.
Last edited by hatchetf15; 10-14-2022 at 02:24 PM.
05-07-2018, 01:45 AM
Porken Lift Bars
