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Thanks guys, hopefully it will encourage others to give it a go, is not too difficult with basic tools. Glad to say that there were no leaks under the car this morning. finished off fitting the rear bumper and undertrays. Took the car for a 15 mile run, ran it to over 4k RPM to ensure the variocam triggers and happy taht there were no CELs. On getting home I ran the Durametric to check the Cam variation and its running at 1.72 & 2.02, well within specifications but honestly I was expecting it to be better.
The car runs great and I am very pleased with it. Going to take it easy for 500 miles then dump the oil and filter + drop the sump and make sure everything is cleaned up. After that I will get it hot and run it hard which used to trigger the misfire and CEL.
Total it cost me $2,694, $2,641 in parts, + $323 for the Injectors, LN low temp thermostat, oil, PS fluid and 5900 sealer. I'm sure it would have been a $6k job at a dealer. I could have done the intake lifters on the misfiring cylinders only for $500-600. But I think if your going to do a job do it properly.
All ready now for some summer useage
Don't be too hard on yourself. Your cam timing numbers are great. It's damn near impossible to have them be zero. Most new engines end up with a 1 to 2 degree variation :-) Good job!
I have completed 400 miles since the rebuild, I dropped the sump to check it out and changed the oil and filter (the oil will be going in the Audi at its next change).
When you look at the sealant around the sump it is aged and looks very much like the sump has never been removed.
Pretty clean, no glitter. there were the following pieces in the bottom
The 2 larger pieces are clear brown plastic that is quite brittle. It doesn't look like chain guide material, not sure what that is. The 6 black pieces are hard plastic, looks very much like the chain guide material and would align with the slight wear I had on the guides. The bottom left is aluminium, it looks just like machining swarf and is the only metallic material in the sump.
With fresh oil in the car got it up to temp and drove it hard in the lower gears all the way to 7k rpm, car feels great. This hard driving used to without fail trigger the misfire CEL in the past. Got it home and plugged in the Durametric and all is clear, no CELs or pending.
So I am very please to say its fixed, hopefully this is helpful is you have a 3.6 with a persistent CEL that cant be addressed by the usual plugs and coils.
Also meant to add, I decided to go back to the OE oil filter, it is just so much easier to dissect filters than the LN screw on filter adapter. So if anyone is interested I have a LN adapter for sale with only 400 miles on it. It clearly works great and is a beautifully machined part.
Nice work! Good luck with 'er... The brownish plastic looks like it was from the old cam chain tensioner pads (they start out whitish and turn brown with age/heat)... nothing to worry about as you've already changed them...
My hat is off to you. I have done 30+ engine drops on my four post lift but never one in between the ramps. I am in the middle of one right now, and earlier 996 5 chain engine. I was looking for disassembly instruction but it looks like the engine is very much different.
My hat is off to you. I have done 30+ engine drops on my four post lift but never one in between the ramps. I am in the middle of one right now, and earlier 996 5 chain engine. I was looking for disassembly instruction but it looks like the engine is very much different.
There are a bunch of posts/topics covering engine drop on jack-stands. Do a search, you'll find 'em. It's pretty straight forward - lots to remove, but nothing too difficult. Good luck
There are a bunch of posts/topics covering engine drop on jack-stands. Do a search, you'll find 'em. It's pretty straight forward - lots to remove, but nothing too difficult. Good luck
I have no problem with removing engine. Do that all day. I removed the engine last week on a 4 post lift with the engine hanging off the rear.
it's the disassembly of the 996-01 cam shafts that I am looking for. I did find some useful references and got what I needed
So, have you had any other missfire since you put everything back together again?
No, pleased to say all fixed with over 1,000 since the work. Getting it hot and driving it hard causes absolutely no issues. Where before it would flag a cell and misfire.
Last edited by D6lc; 08-01-2018 at 06:05 PM.
Reason: typo
06-05-2018, 08:40 AM
The brownish plastic looks like it was from the old cam chain tensioner pads (they start out whitish and turn brown with age/heat)... nothing to worry about as you've already changed them...
