DIY: 996 Door Latch Replacement [Detailed]
 

If your window does not stay lowered when your door is open, chances are that a switch within the door latch has gone out. This is a detailed procedure to change the door latch.

Difficulty: 3/5

Time: 1hr-1.5hr

Tools used: (If you don’t have the following, the links are to Amazon)

• 3/8 Ratchet
• 1/4 Ratchet
• 1/4 Ratchet Extensions
• 8mm XZN Bit Socket (I used VIM Tools Triple Square/XZN bit sockets. They are the OEM for MAC’s triple square sockets are very high quality for a fraction of the price)
• 4mm Hex Bit Socket
• 10mm Shallow Socket
• 10mm Swivel Socket
• T30 Torx Bit Socket
• EZ Red Magnetic Flashlight (Highly recommend this particular flashlight as it fits perfectly in the door space)
• Body Panel Removal Tools
• Magnetic Tray
• Philips #2 Screw Driver
• Small Flat Head Screw Driver

1. Disconnect Battery. This isn’t super necessary, but we will be disconnecting several electrical connectors. (Better safe than sorry!) You will need a 10mm socket for this.

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2. Remove interior mirror trim with a plastic panel tool. You will want to pry outwards on the bottom, then push up.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/784/4...a3185321_k.jpg



If you are removing the driver side, you will have to remove an electrical connector. You don’t have to do this, but I didn’t want the piece dangling and possibly getting scratched. Just note you have to lift two somewhat hidden prongs before trying to unplug the connector.

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3. Remove door handle trim with a plastic panel tool. You will want to pry off the trim piece. You can see in the picture below that there are 5 clips holding this piece on. You will then need a T30 torx bit to remove the two screws.

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Just note that the screws are different lengths. The longer screw goes into the bottom hole.

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4. Remove screw behind door pull. You will need a #2 Phillips screw driving for this.

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5. Loosen, but do not remove the screw inside storage compartment. You will need a #2 Philips screw driver for this. This screw is inside of an expanding plastic rivet/clip.

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6. Remove courtesy light with a plastic panel pry bar.

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7. The only thing left holding the door in at this point are clips. You will need to pry from the bottom; I prefer to start with the rear most bottom corner and work my way around the bottom and then move upwards. When all clips are removed, push up on the door panel to remove the top U channel from door seal. You need to be careful as the door cable and two cables will still be attached to the other side of the door panel.



Remove two electrical plugs.

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8. Remove the door handle cable. (Apologies for the blurry photo) You will need to slide the white clip away from the end of the cable. Then release the cable end from the door handle. You will be able to remove the door panel completely after this.

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9. You will now need to remove four screws with a 10mm socket. Three are obvious, but the fourth screw is the bottom corner of the air bag bracket (this screw has blue locktite and will require a little more effort removing)

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10. After the screws are removed, you’ll notice the sheet metal piece is still hanging in place. You will need to remove this wire loom clip before completely removing the part.

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11. Remove the door latch screws using an 8mm XZN (aka triple square) bit socket. Do not attempt to use a Torx bit, as you may strip this screw. These screws aren't torqued very high, but do have blue locktite.

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Before proceeding, I highly recommend throwing this light inside the door to see what you’re doing. The magnetic base sticks to the topside of the door.

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12. You will need to remove two screws, using a swivel 10mm attached to an extension. Alternatively, you could use a ratcheting combination wrench, but I found the first way to be better.

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It’s almost like it was designed to be done this way!

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13. You will now want to release the exterior handle from the door latch. To do this will need to pull back on a plastic sleeve. After you have pulled the sleeve back, you can separate the two by pushing upwards on it.

Here is before the sleeve is pulled back

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Here is the sleeve after is pulled back. You will see the bottom of the plastic tube has a slot. Push upwards from the bottom, and the door latch will release.

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14. Remove the electrical connector from the bottom of the door latch.

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15. The only thing holding the door latch in at this point is a shaft that locks/unlocks the door latch. You can wiggle the door latch out, but just know the cast aluminum piece holding in the door handle will come out with the door latch. Here you can see the shaft that connects the key mechanism to the door latch.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/898/3...41fd2b61_k.jpg



Various door latches from the VAG family will work. The cables can easily be swapped over if you are on a tight budget or parts availability is an issue. I don't recommend this route - the used one I purchased failed in a way that prevented the internal lock mechanism from disengaging. YMMV.

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16. For reassembly, you’ll want to start by reattaching the cast aluminum piece that goes behind the door handle. Do not tighten down, just have it snug, as being able to wiggle it around will make installing the door latch easier. You will need to get the shaft to line up.


17. After the door latch is in position, and the shaft from the key lock is inserted, snug, but do not tighten, the two 8mm XZN screws. After the door latch is position and snugly in place, reattach the connector between the exterior door handle and the door latch.


18. You can now reverse the disassembly steps from this point.

I've done this and very little of what you're showing looks familiar. Especially 2-a. The benefits of old age I guess.

Or it just depends on how much beer is involved. :D

Thank you for taking the time to document, write and post this procedure. I just did this today on my 2004 and the steps were spot on! Three callouts to anyone doing this job:

• Use a new, sharp razor blade to cut the glue bead behind the door liner. An old, dull one will waste your time and put your liner at risk.
• Use a heat gun on low (and in gentle sweeping motions) to reheat the glue a little when putting the liner back in place. Be careful not to cook the liner.
• On my 2004, I did not have the screw inside the storage compartment.

Small stuff compared to the info in this post. Thanks for saving me time and money on this job!

-Brad

Thanks to all. I just ordered mine from Suncoast Porsche today. Perfect timing!

Excellent instructions. One more piece of information... You can substitute a (much cheaper) VW unit for the genuine Porsche unit by simply swapping the circled piece from the Porsche unit to the VW unit. They are otherwise identical.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...080161a3ec.jpg

I got VW P/N 3D-837-015-AB for VW Golf VI Variant, VW Golf 5 Plus, Jetta 3, VW Caddy 3, Skoda Octavia 2 etc. cheap off ebay to use its microswitch to replace the worn one on my lock.

After comparing the two I decided to try and fit it, which worked after cutting off part of the red plastic lever along the yellow line, see pictures.
It's an alternative to the above suggested swapping clock spring loaded levers and such.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a284285404.jpg
Cut line in yellow to make a vw door lock (right) work in a 996 (and 986). Original lock on the left.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...6586c8b63e.jpg

Door lock works perfectly again in all its different ways of locking and unlocking.

That's a great idea. What was the cost of the VW part?

Paid 1€ for the part and 4.50€ p&p.
I put that bid in a couple of hours before ending as not to forget and was the only bidder as it turned out.
Check out using the P/N to see what is generally charged for the lock.

Thanks to OP for a great write up! Looks like I'm about to embark on this one - replacing drivers door latch mechanism. Symptoms - increasingly difficult to get drivers door unlocked and handle engaged to open door. When car is sitting in the hot sun (almost everyday), go to parking lot and unlock door with key. Pull handle and nothing. Sometimes two pulls will open door. Yesterday, unlock and pull, pull, pull, pull...nada. Lock again, remove key, and unlock again. Nada. Enter car from passenger side and pull on interior handle. Nope, door won't open. Leave passenger door open, returned to drivers side, locked and unlocked again and pulled the handle, door opens. Since I have to do this sometimes 4-5 times a day, going to take no chances and suck it up for an OE replacement door latch mechanism. Worked for 21 years, so I figure another 21 years and we are good to go.

Want to add - if I don't lock the door the door handle works every single time opening and closing the door. So it has something to do with locking the car and it not releasing afterward. And I have lubed the latch mechanism with white lithium grease. Any other brilliant ideas to consider?

At the time of writing the guide, I used a replacement latch from a vehicle with 50k miles. I had the exact same issues after ~3 months and the issue got progressively worse. I diagnosed the issue to the internal lock/unlock mechanism internal to the latch assembly. Replace the latch mechanism before it fails permanently. The day I went to replace the latch, I accidentally locked the door due to muscle memory and it took a good 30 minutes of pulling to get the door unlocked.

Okay, as a final follow-up to this DIY I have this to say: I replaced the drivers side door latch mechanism over the weekend. To the OP who rated this a 1.5/5 job, I have to totally disagree. This is an extremely tricky job. You will be working one handed and in the blind for the most part. Getting the door latch in is one thing, but the most difficult part is getting the cast aluminum backing plate in while lining up the lock pin and at the same time re-inserting the door handle with the hinges from outside. This was like trying to figure out a chinese jigsaw puzzle with one hand while your eyes are closed. There is no way to see what is going on, or how things are lining up way back up in the door. It is all done by feel and guessing. I got so frustrated I had to walk away at least five times and take a break. I was sweating my a$$ off and almost thought this was going to have to go to the dealer because I can't figure out how to do it....that is how close it was. And that is very unusual for me.

As I stated in another thread, I replaced my drivers side latch mechanism with a OE Porsche door latch (R8N1837015C) because the last one has worked for 21 years. Yes, I paid the Porsche tax but it is worth it for this part. After doing this job I never want to do this again. It started getting wonky locking and unlocking, sometimes taking several attempts to unlock and engage the door handle. It ended when I unlocked and pulled the door handle and it did nothing over and over. I would have to enter passenger side and attempt to unlock from inside the car. It got to the point where I could not get the door open from outside or inside. Not good.

This write up with the pictures is spot on. Many thanks to the OP for the detailed instructions and pictures. I took many pictures as well but I don't feel it would really add anything to post them up.

One of the things I would add, I found it very helpful when reinserting the door handle from the exterior side of the door, tape the threaded rod that goes from the door handle to the latch to the hinge. That thing got in the way so many times reinserting the door handle and trying to get it to line up with the cast aluminum backing plate. You cannot remove it because once everything is in place you will never be able to reattach it. Those of you who have done this know what I'm talking about..it flops around and makes it nearly impossible to get the door handle assembly back in.

And finally, the door latch is truly an electro-mechanical mechanism. It does not work without power. Playing with it on the bench, locking and unlocking, I'm telling you it does not lock or unlock simply by turning the lock cylinder pin. I always thought that the key would operate even if the car was dead (no power). I am telling you for certain the door latch mechanism will not physically lock or unlock without power.

A picture of the lock cylinder pin and door handle hinge pin that you need to line up when reinstalling....all in the blind
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...cae3ccc752.jpg

I think I will also add that I had both old and new door latch mechanisms on the kitchen table and I spent probably close to an hour comparing them. I could discern no physical differences or obvious problems, so the failure must be internal. I may keep the old one and open it up to see what is inside.

I got this far inside to see what is in there...circuit board, motor, tiny microswitch..trying to figure out how all that works
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8d2a2a3dc9.jpg

Now here is where it gets interesting. By inserting a screwdriver in the slot where the door lock cylinder turns back and forth, the movement causes the slider piece on the worm screw gear to move up and down. As the slider moves up and down, a part of the slider either opens or closes the microswitch on the circuit board (the little orange looking thing). See open and closed positions. Just wanted to say, all movement from the white part where the door lock cylinder pin acts only as a fulcrum point (the fork piece on the slider) to move the slider up and down the worm gear.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...be9b3586b7.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...2b2b51e0ce.jpg

All the rest inside is purely mechanical, so the entire lock/unlock procedure is dependent on the position of the slider on the worm gear, and I believe the microswitch needs to have power to determine whether the microswitch is open or closed (thus fortifying my belief that the car will not lock/unlock without power...and I proved that when I disconnected my battery for this project and could not lock or unlock the car).
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8a5f18432b.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0765f69d50.jpg

And I always lube the nylon parts using light lithium grease. The lock will operate much smoother and quieter.

BTW - my pic in post #12 shows the linkage BEFORE I took anything apart. I studied my picture in relation to OP's and for the life of me could not figure out what he was talking about moving the slider lock back on the threaded part, and then it dawned on me that mine was already out of the locked position. I figure I dodged a pretty good bullet that that piece held together all these years without the slider locked back in place. The things you find.......

I apologize if I lead you on to believe this was going to be easier than it was! I would agree that this the trickiest aspect of the job, but I'm glad you were able to finish the task. If I recall correctly, I believe I left the exterior handle with just the nuts on the back of the aluminum name just started so it had enough slop to guide in the flat bladed pin while getting the door lock into position. You were right in that it's movement done purely by feel.

The only things I remember from doing this job is that your hands will get shredded if you're not careful and to put masking tape around the outside of the door to prevent scratches when you're fiddling around trying to line things up.

Hey...no problems here. No apologies necessary. In fact your write up is fantastic. I've been wrenching on all sorts of things since I was just a young kid. 6 years in the Navy as a Machinist Mate. I have also worked on all of my cars since I was 17. Now I'm 62. I would have tackled this job anyway, even if you gave it a 5 out of 5. Just wanted others to know that this is tricky and one will need a great deal of patience, and maybe even another set of hands to help.

Thank you guys for such a nice write up! And yes, hats off to sweet victory for a great DIY thread!!!

I've changed these locks out before on other cars and personally think Porsche's locks are just about as good as other cars. They get old and dirty, loose their lubrication, and the electric actuators/microswitches foul up and then shaaa bang!... you're locked out of your car and it's never at a convenient time or location! The telltale sign is that it becomes harder and harder to unlock or open the doors. This can happen during the cold and hot months. The locks are not prejudice to weather. They can "lock up" (no pun intended) at any time.

What makes it more frustrating for Porsche owners is the way they engineered the locking and security aspect of these cars. How many threads have you read where someone was locked out of their 996 and couldn't get access to the battery or rear deck lid to jump the car off? Fortunately, we have more information then ever before to alert us to these problems. When the cup-bearers fall over dead, we learn what wine to avoid.

Well, I had errands to run this morning so I ended up locking and unlocking at least 5 times this morning. Everything was perfect. The difference is amazing. Seems I never noticed the steady deterioration of the lock cylinder and latch. Before it was kind of sloppy, almost loose in the lock/unlock sequence, and then of course it crapped out totally. Now it is like a snap and clunk...locked. Beautiful....and peace of mind to boot! Please remember to relocate your frunk emergency release cable to just behind the front bumper tow hook plug. It works great from that location.

Great write-up....but I have a question before I jump into this:

When I lift the driver side door handle ('99 Coupe) I can hear the switch actuate, but the window barely moves. Passenger side seems to operate as designed (same sound, window lowers slightly).

A switch should operate as a simple "on/off" device, correct? Would the fact that I hear it "actuate" but the window doesn't lower suggest the switch is fine?

If I tackle this project, just want to make sure I hit the cause of the problem.

Best,

Majic

If you can push the window down after you hear that noise then it is most likely the window regulator. Something broke and now there's too much slack in the cable to lower the wind half an inch

^^ That is correct. Over time the window regulator cables stretch and you don't get the window drop anymore. Our cars are approaching 20 years old. Stuff is just simply going to wear out and need to be replaced. Only get a OE Porsche window regulator. Do not go cheap on this one.

Yes, I can push the window down to its intended position. It then raises tightly when I close the door. The regulator definitely makes more sense to me - thank you both!

I have also learned the OEM/non-OEM lesson the hard way so I will stick to OEM here...

If you are going to do this yourself, it's a fiddly job but not to hard. One of the most important tips is to mark the position of the bottom bolts of the regulator BEFORE you pull it out. Those positions determine the window pressure against the seal. If you don't mark them, you will spend 2 hours making adjustments to get the window glass to seat correctly against the window seal.

OK, I have not seen this discussed here. I replaced the passenger door lock actuator because the window was not going down when opened (window regulator was fine). The new one functions well in that regard, however, now the doors won't lock. If I disconnect it, The driver door will lock. As soon as I reconnect the harness, nothing happens when I hit the lock button on the dash or the key. I disassembled everything and reinstalled it to the same effect. Thoughts?

If I hook the old one up, doors lock, but window behavior is off again.

I'd guess that the lock drive motor is faulty on your replacement unit, pulling down both units when plugged in. Your original unit has a faulty microswitch that stops the window dropping. If you are handy with a soldering iron, you could probably make one good unit out of the two, by removing the microswitch from your replacement unit and replacing the faulty switch in your original unit. Otherwise, return your replacement unit for a good one.

^^ I have to agree. The door latch mechanism is a go or no go situation. If a brand new unit doesn't work right, it never will. What type of replacement door latch did you get? From where? Is it the correct door latch, because there are different ones for driver/passenger doors (and I think LHD or RHD is a criteria as well).

2nd new unit from sonnen Porsche had the same behavior. I had a separate thread asking if anyone knew if there was a difference between part numbers (big price difference). No real responses. I guess I know now.

It depends on which specific part numbers you are talking about. There are specific units for right hand drive (RHD) cars and left hand drive (LHD) cars, as well as specific units for the left hand door and right hand door of each variant. So you must get the one that suits your car and door.

As an example, the left hand unit for a RHD car will fit, but not work in a LHD car. If you have the original unit out of the car, take note of the part number. If you are substituting a VW part for the Porsche part, only the first 3 characters differ. The last part of the part number should be the same.

See my post above.

Mine is definitely a LHD car, but it has a different part number than those listed earlier in this thread. I tried the one that was listed here, but it didn’t work. It was less than half the price that my model #. Mine is 3b1837016p. As far as I can tell, there is a vw part with the same part number, less the p. The Porsche part varies from $350-450. I just ordered a used one from eBay. If that fails, does anyone think the vw part will work?

So according to the Porsche Parts List (PET), the part number listed is 3B1 837 016 M, which is for a Left Hand Drive 996, Right Side (Passenger) Door with M534/M535 Alarm System (see screen grab below). The letter following the part number usually denotes a revision of the design, so P would be a more recent variant than M.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...668067d681.png
Extract from PET for 996

In my case, the units I replaced were 8N2 837 015 and 8N2 837 016 on my '99 Boxster, and 8N2 837 016 on my '02 996 - my cars are Right Hand Drive (Australia). My Boxster had an after-market alarm system, so wasn't using the Porsche Alarm System and the VW units worked perfectly. My 996 does have a Porsche Alarm System and the drivers side VW substitution works great, but I haven't yet needed to replace the passenger side unit, so I don't know if the original unit in mine is the 8N2 or the 3B2 variant. I may also have the same issue as you if/when I have to change the passenger side unit. I get the feeling that the VW unit with the same part number (minus the letter) should work fine (and I would personally try one of those before paying the Porsche tax), but it is only a guess as I haven't had direct experience. Sorry I can't help further.

Thanks for the reply. Cheap eBay used replacement with the same part number solved all of the problems. No real Porsche tax paid.

Had to try this myself after reading your findings as I remembered it differently and indeed I can unlock and lock the driver's door turning the key without power (battery disconnected) on my 99 Carrera.

I was looking at this to save some money. So everything else is the same for the S and Cab S not diff for any other models? I have a 2009 Cab S.

Thanks

The information was applicable to the 996. 2009 would make your car a 997, wouldn't it?

The chances are good that there is an equivalent VW unit for the 997, but I couldn't say for certain. Get the original part number from the 997 PET and try searching the internet for parts that match the last part of your part number. If you find an alternate, just make sure it is for the correct side and for LHD (assuming your car is LHD). It may well be that the 997 uses the same units as the 996, but as I don't have a 997, I haven't checked.

Great thread - Thanks for all the information and detailed steps - My problem has been resolved after following these steps to replace the passenger lock assembly. After doing this once if the other side fails I will use the VW part as it was easy to switch the piece from the old lock mechanism to the new lock mechanism. I had purchased a used part off fleabay but in the future I will order the VW part. :burnout:

Does anyone have the link for the eBay part?

I have replaced both of my door latches. It fixed the window dropping issue, but now I can’t lock the car. It sounds like it locks, unlocks and then honks and stays open. The latch doesn’t want to turn over. Any idea what this could be? I already checked everything, and it looks like it is all connected.

DIY: 996 Door Latch Replacement [Detailed]
 

Just replaced mine too...bought off eBay and works awesome. Actually helped the door align better...interesting.

One word of caution (wisdom)...inside door is sharp...not wearing gloves, slipped when pulling something and slit my hand wide open. you can imagine my wife's joy...:rolleyes: Actually had my daughter drive me to urgent care for 3 quick stiches. Oh, and yes, works perfectly now...the door latch that is.

I just installed the VW equivalent part which I got off ebay and have a similar issue. As soon as I connect it Durametric will show a fault in Alarm I32 as Fault Code 012 Wrong Door Lock Module, or something similar to that. If I plug my OE unit back in the fault is no longer active. With the VW part in the electronic locks will not work with the key. I can use durametric to lock them but I still get a fault.

Has anyone seen that?

I think I'm going to order a replacement, plug it in, and verify I don't get a fault before I actually install it.

I do not understand this. I have had to replace my drivers door latch. I got a OE Porsche door latch and replaced it. A PITA job, but it worked absolutely right with no problems. My original door latch worked for twenty years, so I'm expecting my replacement door latch will last another 20 years. I do not understand why, if you own a Porsche, one would try to save a few bucks and try to use a substitute VW part, and then have an expectation it will work right. Do it once, do it right. I know it is more expensive, but this is one job you need to do right. Just saying.....

I was just thinking this as I read this post. I can appreciate the attraction, and some times it works out great! Other times, not so much. I totally understand the VW route, but when one doesn’t own a VW… I’ve been down both roads, maturity happens and you decide how to approach things differently. For me the “premium” OEM price, ends up being fair, often.

Anyhow, I’ve got a lock problem that the OP’s experience might aid me ina diagnosis.

I have 02 Cab C2. When insert and turn in either direction a key in the door, NOTHING happens, no sounds or clicks.

What would that be a symptom of?
I'm guessing/hoping a dead dead battery.

Awesome thread, OP et al…

I actually just edited that section that brought up using a used part and my experience with it. It may have gotten buried in this thread, but the internal lock mechanism failed, preventing the door from being able to be opened from the inside or outside. After half of hour of fiddling with the manual key lock, I was able to get the door open. (This was probably ~2 years ago from today) I then installed an OEM unit and haven't looked back. That being said, I still decided to leave that section in the original post - with ships just sitting outside ports, parts availability might be an issue, so a used/compatible part might be what's available.


Has the car been sitting for a while?

Recently started having the door closed microswitch issue on my 02 996 turbo (original part: 3b1837016p).
Purchased the passenger side VW part (3d2837016) on the CHEAP... while it fixed my window, the alarm / locks no longer worked (single honk, no electronic lock). Without troubleshooting with a durametric etc. I had a hunch it was an internal difference on the electronic side.
After dissembling each lock, turns out I was right. Besides obvious quality differences there was a resistor provisioned in the VW part that the Porsche part had omitted. The Porsche part also appears to have a capacitor that the VW part does not.

With that said, I ended up swapping over the VW door open/close microswitch to the Porsche part. Upon reassembly I noticed the mechanical strike contactor that the microswitch interacts with on the Porsche part was worn/gouged too. So I ended up swapping the mechanical portion of the lock over too.
I do dislike that the VW part is decently cheaper in construction but it works and was a considerable savings. With that said I'm rather proud of my VAG "frankenlock" and ill be sure to follow-up if it wears out prematurely etc.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f78bde895e.jpg
VW Internals, Missing cap up top, additional resistor down lower.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...3a0238c3bb.jpg
Porsche Internal, additional cap up top, missing resistor.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...42d488d124.jpg
Porsche Cap
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a37073a6f1.jpg
Worn Porsche door open switch
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e49dcb3b04.jpg
VW door open switch
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c3421a0d38.jpg
Porsche internals with VW switch
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ad37b3d5c6.jpg
Worn strike on Porsche mechanical side.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...76a79e1483.jpg
Porsche Electronics, VW door open microswitch, VW mechanicals.

Side note, its pretty cool Porsche used Cherry switches on their internals.
Hope this maybe helps someone, I know it will frustrate purists but to each their own.

[QUOTE=GrilledTuna;17967485]Recently started having the door closed microswitch issue on my 02 996 turbo (original part: 3b1837016p).
Purchased the passenger side VW part (3d2837016) on the CHEAP... while it fixed my window, the alarm / locks no longer worked (single honk, no electronic lock). Without troubleshooting with a durametric etc. I had a hunch it was an internal difference on the electronic side.
After dissembling each lock, turns out I was right. Besides obvious quality differences there was a resistor provisioned in the VW part that the Porsche part had omitted. The Porsche part also appears to have a capacitor that the VW part does not.
Check where the circuit board solders to the connector on the porsche part. I bet you find broken solder joints. You need a microscope

[QUOTE=dougn;17969184]
Check where the circuit board solders to the connector on the porsche part. I bet you find broken solder joints. You need a microscope[/QUOTEI was worried about that initially. After wiggling and testing with a multimeter those solder joints all passed just fine. It's actually why I chose to splice the switch into the wires and not the board. The P part actually has a pretty nice conformal coating I wanted to preserve. I didn't see it on others pictures above so I'm not sure if this was a revised lock compared to others. Either way, your advice will probably save many a lot of trouble!

Thanks GrilledTuna for the addition of your analysis to this thread.
I have succesfully replaced a worn driver's side lock that wouldn't drop the window with a VW lock and it could well be it causes the single honk when locking the car using the remote (as it isn't caused by the after market radio).
Contrary to your passenger lock woes, my car does indeed lock with the VW lock.

That's sweet! I was hoping to get off with just the swap, but my luck isn't that good! Does anyone know how many versions of alarm there were designated for the 996?

'04 996 Carrera 2
 

I have watched countless hours of videos trying to research what is going with my car and I decided to basically replace all parts that could go wrong and I still don't have a positive outcome. Let's see if someone can help me.

Chief issue is my window isn't dropping (or raising) the final 10mm when I lift the handle. Also, car isn't locking using the key fob or central lock button on the dash. The car can be locked (the driver's door only) using a key.

I have replaced:
- Microswitch on the door handle (the one with the dongle)
- Window regulator as mine was worn out
- Entire door latch assembly (Porsche replacement from URO parts - not used)

I still have a micro switch that supposedly goes on the external part of the door handle but I cannot find it to save my life. If anyone has any idea where it belongs I will gladly remove the door and replace it. What could be wrong. I don't have any faults on the OBD and I am at a total loss on how to fix this. I am happy to buy any parts to get it fixed.

Thank you very much for your help!

Good info in here - great write up.

Thank you

vetfever

I conquered this project yesterday evening with the guide of this post. Super helpful!

I didn't see it referenced above but to remove the door panel, you also have to pull the "AIRBAG" (or whatever) plug in the door to get access to a 5(?)mm hex screw to get the door card off. Also, I ended up pulling the exterior door handle so I could finagle the slotted metal lever from the lock tumbler into the door switch.

The process was a little fiddly but in all, not bad. OP's writeup was the biggest help. Thanks!

I just did this today as well, and didn't scroll down to the bottom to see imhighlander's message about the airbag.

OP, this was a great writeup, but could you add the airbag screw in?

I can't believe I missed the airbag screw! Doh.

Thanks for pointing that out fellas, that hidden bastard definitely needs to be in here.



EDIT: This is strange. I can't seem to edit my original post. The edit button is not next to the quote button like it usually is. @TexSquirrel do you think you can help me out here, or direct someone who knows might know what's up?

That's strange.
Try logging out and back in and see if that resolves the issue.

@sweet victory , You can only edit a post up to 45 after you've posted.
Send me the full text and I'll make the change for you..

Hi @TexSquirrel , can you insert this post above the image of removing the courtesy light sentence?

6. Use a plastic trim panel tool (you may want to use two and pry from two sides) to remove the air bag badge. Behind it, you will find a hidden socket head screw; remove using a 4mm hex bit socket.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3a79d9c5_k.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...721e5c35_k.jpg

This is a great thread and came in really handy today when I replaced the door latch on the driver's side of my '02 Carrera. The reason I replaced mine is because sometimes I had to pull the internal handle twice to open the driver's door. The most difficult part of the job, beside being extra careful with 20 year old brittle plastic and leather during the door card removal process, was lining up the key lock rod with the new mechanism. Some fiddling and patience and I finally go it. The new doors the first time now.

Since I just did this job, here are some additional comments for this thread:
- I wore a headlamp led light and had great visibility every step of the way and didn't need any other lights. You can pick those up from Amazon for under $20 now.
- When removing the old latch, you need to remove a plastic crown shaped piece which goes over the white door pull cable. This piece needs to be transferred to the new latch to keep the cable locked in.
- I used an aftermarket latch made by URO and I'm very happy with the results. A side by side comparison proved they are identical.
- While the latch is out, peek inside the door shell and check for plastic connectors holding electrical wires to the door. These are held on with plastic grommets which are attached to the wire with felt tape. Due to age and heat, this tape is usually loose by now. I removed the wiring harness connecting to the door handle and reconnected the wire to the plastic connector using two small zip ties. This will ensure no weird sounds in the door in the future.
- When installing the door pull cable into the new latch, think about how it's going to sit inside the door and then look at the other end that will connect to the inside of the door card, behind the interior door pull. The white plastic connector which attaches to the inside of the door card has one side which is deeper and locks into the door card. This piece needs to be facing out to the back of the door card. If not, you'll have to twist the cable which puts tension on it. Picture below

I hope that helps others.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...4724c84875.jpg
Detailed look inside the door shell. The door lock rod further away was the hardest to line up.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...7c1c9886b9.jpg
securing the exterior door handle cable to plastic connectors to attach to the inside of the door shell

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f6c97642f8.jpg
The crown shaped plastic piece you need to take off the original door latch. Carefully snap off.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...813803b47a.jpg
OEM vs URO door latch with the plastic crown piece remove and reinstalled on the new part. They are identical.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f33e1af17a.jpg
Correct position of white door release cable, with larger white box at the end facing into the backside of the door card.

Great additions to one of the most useful threads I've ever found. This needs to be consolidated and "stickied" for the forum.

I am so happy I found this thread as I am going to attempt this fix for the right side (passenger door) window not staying down a few mms when opened. Strangely it only happens when the door is opened form the outside. If you open the door form the inside the window stays dropped as it should and you can close it without holding the handle. My only dilemma now is choosing the alternative part. I am tempted to go with the VW equivalent that has the closest matching part number: 3B1837016* where instead of the * you'd have a "P". I found 2 parts on ebay, one ending in "A" and the other in "CG" so 3B1837016A and 3B1837016CG respectively (links below). The last one being made by URO as I've seen mentioned in another post. Can anyone help with the decision of one over the other?

3B1837016A

3B1837016CG

PS: I do try to put the highest quality parts and am only considering making an exception here for the exorbitant price difference for a part that doesn't impact the safety of driving the car.

Please disregard the question in my previous post, I just found the OEM part for a fraction of the price of US/Canada dealers at Rosepassion.com:

https://www.rosepassion.com/en/diagr...n1837016-10559

At $550 USD+ I was willing to go through the risk of getting a VW part for under $100 USD. But for $300 CAD I think I won't take a chance. My only concern is that I'm not 100% sure if my car came with the M534/535 security option. I don't see it in the list on VIN analytics (see below) but my car alarm does go off if you move inside after locking the doors.

2003 Porsche Carrera 4S Coupe
Division: PCL
Prod Month: 2003-05-01
Price: $130,035.00
Exterior: Arctic Silver Metallic
Interior: Black Full Leather
Warranty Start: April 22, 2004
BASE Porsche Base Model
342 Heated Front Seats
680 Bose High End Sound Package
AH Black Full Leather
E82 Aluminum Look Interior Small
M6A Black Mats - Porsche lettering
P74 Xenon Headlamp Package
P78 Sport Seats w/Full Leather Int
X1 Arctic Silver Metallic Top
XSC Porsche Crest in Headrest
Y06 Alum/Lthr Shifter/Brake Handle
Y29 Aluminum/Chrome X71,X70,X54

Two presses of the key fob, or two back (lock) twists of the key in the door, disables the interior infrared sensors. I'm not sure but two presses of the console lock button may also work. When do you lock the doors while still inside the car?

it only happened when I left my window opened and locked then threw my jacket inside through the window. My concern is more wether that’s the same as the 534 alarm option or not to pick the right actuator.

Key turns but won’t lock or unlock door
 

————————

I have this same problem but didn’t see any answer to this poster’s query with same problem. Any suggestions before I tear into it please!

Modifying the VW lock
 

So I modified my new VW passenger lock today and thought it would be helpful to share a few tips as to the way I did it - this might not be the optimal way for everyone but worked well for me so hopefully helps

1. Unmodified lock - you can see the extra bit of plastic we need to remove recessed at the top in red

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...19c7be7c64.jpg

2. Remove securing screw to show triangle mount that metal plate is keyed to

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...76f08766fe.jpg

3. Remove plastic part - to make my life easier I left the metal plate in place, and just lifted it up and slid the plastic out from underneath. The springs will come out but we can solve that in a minute

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...fc11d33c94.jpg

4. Remove extra plastic not needed - I tried using a dremel but it didn't work well with the plastic so in the end I used a pair of wire cutters, and cut towards the conveniently placed gaps in the top plastic so that it came apart in 3 pieces

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...8f3e7952d1.jpg

5. Slide the plastic back under the metal plate and secure with the screw so that we can start mounting our springs. The top spring is easy as there is one hole in the lock for the left side, and one on the metal plate for the right hand side. The spring for the plastic plate is harder to fit as this is under more pressure - the best way I found to do this was as per the photo below where the bottom edge of the spring is aligned in the plastic part first, then feed the middle of the spring through the gap between the plastic and the metal plate, and then pop the top of the spring in to place on the metal plate using a pair of pliers or similar. This requires a little bit of force but if you hold the top of the spring tightly in the pliers you can direct it in fairly easily

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e86ddd7a68.jpg

6. Finished lock with all springs back in place and excess plastic removed :thumbup:

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...fd22398217.jpg

Yep- can confirm the VW 3D1837015AB and 3D1837016AB will "work" to fix the door drop issue but they will not work with your keyless entry.

Get the URO version and save yourself the hassle.

Posting this here since there is misinformation in this now 5 page thread.

I’ll also add to this thread (if anyone gets down this far) that if you put a good shop light into the door - so you can illuminate the entire inside of the door - it’s actually not that difficult to slide the door handle with it’s threaded rod into the door properly.

First, slide that cast aluminum backing plate - with its long shaft that slots into the electromechanical door lock we are replacing - through the external door handle hole from the outside in. You’ll have to jockey it a bit until it’s through and into the inside of the door. Takes maybe 15 seconds, so it’s easy. Then, line up the shaft protruding from the lock cylinder in the cast aluminum piece and slide it into the receptacle slot in the locking mechanism that you just bought and installed.

Now, slot the cast aluminum backing plate into the door opening until it fits into its natural position. It’ll look and feel right when it’s in its correct position. Look at it. Note how it looks and feels. Then take the external door handle and carefully start to slot it into place as you hold the cast aluminum piece with one hand (through the inside door openings which are easily big enough for any average sized person’s hands and forearms) while working with the door handle mechanism with your other hand. You’ll need to be sitting outboard of the aft edge of the door and basically sort of straddling it as you hold the cast aluminum piece with one hand and the door handle with the other. As you slowly sort of wiggle it all together, (outside door handle to inside cast aluminum piece) it will start to line up and then will quickly all fall into place as the external door handle slots perfectly into place. When it does, reach in and hand screw in the two 10mm nuts you removed earlier. Then tighten them down just as you loosened them earlier.

Actually removing the entire external door handle assembly beforehand is key, as - once you’ve begun reassembly - it allows one to look and see directly back at the locking mechanism you installed moments before and see the slot that the big shaft has to slide back into. You then easily maneuver the cast aluminum backing plate through the hole, roughly line it up, slot the shaft into the locking mechanism (that you can clearly see through the opening), then carefully realign said backing plate into its slot in the door until it’s right. Then, as mentioned, carefully and methodically line up the door handle assembly - being mindful of noting the threaded rod on the assembly and simply using a finger to line it up so it’ll pass through the opening in the door skin - until it’s slotted into the door frame and cast aluminum backing plate. When all is lined up, hand tighten the two 10mm nuts and then fully lock them down with your tools, and that’s it. Make sure your wiring harnesses are clear of the window glass as it cycles up and down, and you’re good to go.

I'm the last victim of the dreaded mciroswitch failure. Two years ago my drivers door failed. And today, my passengers door did. I am very much dreading the job, but not enough to fork out 500+ bucks by sending the car to have it repaired.

Last time, I got a unit from VW, which albeit looking the same as the Porsche unit, once mounted, didn't work at all. But what that unit was, was good enough to provide the physical parts needed to replace the damaged bits in the original Porsche part that was in the car: we unsoldered the microswitch and soldered it back to the Porsche part. And also replaced the actual lock, as the coating in the original one had peeled, leaving a very coarse surface (which probably caused the microswitch to wear).

This time, in order to avoid all that, I've ordered a compatible part from VEMO, which is supposed to be a quality aftermarket supplier. The part was 45 euros shipping included... I just hope this will save me the job of having to cannibalise one unit to rebuild the other. Will let you guys know if this one works out of the box.

I just wanted to post an update. I previously made a knock off Volkswagen lock work for my passenger side door. I did have to graft the Porsche pcb over to it and simply use the mechanicals / exterior micro switches of the lock itself. I am super happy about the cost savings. And it still works great. But I did notice that when the lock actually unlocks it sounds different than a factory Porsche lock. Not as deep and reassuring of a click or thump.

The larger aspect of this update is that I had to replace the driver side recently so I sourced the URO branded lock from pelican parts for about 150usd. It worked seamlessly and it sounds like a stock Porsche lock when the striker clicks/ detaches. Alarm still works and everything's happy.

All of this is just food for thought for the next guy, Cheers.

​​

First time poster here. Just bought my '02 Cabriolet 4 in late June and love the car. Been able to fix some minor stuff on the car thus far but looking for advice on this problem. Spent way to much time reading this thread and others today to figure out my problem below and looking for advice:

- When trying to open the passenger door from the inside or outside the handles don't actuate the window sufficiently to keep it from hitting the convertible roof trim opening or closing the door.
- Once open I cannot push the window down any more.
- The windows operate up and down and in auto mode just fine from the controls inside the car.
- The LED light on the central locking switch is staying lite all the time no matter if the car is locked or not.
- The passenger door locks open and lock with the central locking switch and the remote but I get a double beep when locking with the remote.
- I've gotten codes on the OBD: 59 central locking limit position, 20 status lead, signal converter, and a whole bunch of X00 Generic communication fault codes.

From reviewing this and other threads today, it appears I need to replace my passenger side latch with a URO or OEM part. I'm hoping to get feedback/confirmation.

Thanks,

It very much sounds like it to get rid of the double beep, code 59 and LED being lit.

To get the required amount of window drop requires taking out the slack out of the wire in the window mechanism. Although I admit that not being able to push the window down further seems to contradict that.
I seem to remember this is possible to a certain extent but if too much slack then the whole mechanism must be replaced.

Just to be clear, sounds like you agree that the door latch is the most likely source of the problems, correct? In post #1 to this thread the OP identifies that if the window doesn't drop upon opening the door its most likely a microswitch in the latch and it seems likely that the latch acting wonky is the source of the various locking issues and error codes.

On the bright side, this seems like an incredibly detailed thread and source of information about acquiring the proper latch replacement, and its my passenger door so I won't have to deal with getting the key latch shaft aligned during the re-install.

Thanks for your feedback and for everyone contributing to this thread and the detailed information included (it at least gives me the confidence that I can perform this operation).

Thanks for

Yes, in my experience you need indeed a new doorlock to get rid of the double beep, code 59 and LED being lit.

I understood your pass. window drops but not enough. Then it's not an issue with microswitches.
If they don't move at all then it's a microswitch.

Ok great thanks, and even if it is the mircroswitches those will be in the new door latch I purchase/install, correct?

The exterior handle microswitch will be included with the new latch. Interior handle microswitch is a separate part.

FYI for whoever tackles this job next. On my 2000 C2 cab, the VW part referenced earlier did NOT function correctly, and it was a hilarious fail with the vehicle repeatedly failing to remote lock and setting off the alarm every time I tried to open the door. The door would lock manually but no remote functions worked and the key-in-door cabrio trick did not work either. Caveat is that this was an Amazon part not VW OEM.

I went for the URO part, so far it is working flawlessly and corrected my double-beep issue.

Thanks Sublm8 for this response. Odd thing is it was really nice earlier in the week so I was driving with the top down and for that day everything corrected itself oddly. Central locking system light went off, the windows worked correctly from both inside/outside, the remote alarm system worked properly again. Then the next back to the same problems. But my windows always work fine from the center console controls and when the problems start both the interior handle and exterior handle have the lack of window drop problem. It doesn't seem likely to me that both of those microswitches would go simultaneously so I'm betting its the latch that's causing these problems. I plan on buying the URO latch. Can I ask where you purchased and $$?

Pelican, $150 shipped.

Did my passenger door latch today. Weird that you can buy the driver's side P part for $150 (that has the key mechanism) and the cheapest I could find the passenger side P part was $524 (plus shipping). Glad I used the OEM P part and thanks for the good advice on that from this thread. The new door latch solved all my problems with the central locking system and the windows not dropping when using the inside and outside door handles. I took my time and it was about three hours thanks to this GREAT DYI!

Faulty wire? Stumped.
 

Hi all - wondering if you can help me trouble shoot this curious behavior;

when my passenger side door is unlocked the window drops 1/3rd of an inch, when it’s locked the window goes back up to the right position. It does this regardless of whether the door is open or closed.

the window does not drop further by lifting the door handle inside or outside the car. And it does not go back up when I release the handle.

when I do the reset procedure the window goes all the way up and then drops.

The lock button inside the car works a single time if I clear all codes. And then does not do anything after that- no light no action.

I can lock and unlock the car just fine by pressing the button on the remote or using the key. No single or double beep. PIWIS shows the door being ‘open’ regardless of whether it is locked or unlocked, open or closed.

I have changed the lock twice and the regulator motor once and the behavior is exactly the same. I have checked the part numbers with Porsche and they have confirmed them. I disassembled one lock and its micro switch was perfect.

the only thing I can think of is that there is a wire that goes from the micro switch to the M535(?) control unit that tells the car the door is open or closed is cut somewhere. But which one is it? How could I test that?

Appreciate any ideas

Stumped
 

Closest wiring diagram I found is here
https://rennkit.com/wp-content/uploa...iring_2002.pdf

I believe there are microswitches on the outer door handle mechanism as well. Looks like you've tried everything else.

Stumped continued
 

So here’s what I’ve done. Firstly here are all the micro switches. The ones in the latch do something so work. The door handle micro switch is brand new. I assume that works.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...3dd3f622c.jpeg

I made a little harness so I could press my remote button and activate the door lock motor:

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...77d933647.jpeg

I ran PIWIS and cleared these codes:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...4ad6830eb.jpeg


I then tested every combination. The external door handle switch did absolutely nothing in any combination so I made no notes on that.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...bdf8c77b9.jpeg


Next post I will share my notes

Stumped notes
 

Notes -

When I manually ‘lock’ the door by moving the harness to the lock position PIWIS sees the door as both locked and closed.

In the lock position if I then press the microswitch to simulate the door being opened, the window drops correctly, the interior lights come on and if I release it the windows returns to the correct position and the lights go out. It all behaves correctly so long as the door is manually set to the lock position:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...3dac720d02.jpg

It is like the door lock is sending one extra signal when it should not be. It’s communicating that the door is locked or unlocked AND it’s communicating that the door is open when the car is unlocked.

Now the other issue I have is that the lock button inside the car works once after codes are cleared and is then disabled. So I can’t ‘close’ the window to its right position whilst driving.

All 3 door locks I’ve tested have the part number 3B183701P. I rechecked pelicanparts and it confirms this is the right part for a 1999 Carrera. Haydon Porsche website says the same.

I can’t see any obvious damage at all to the wires but will clean contacts next. Really I have changed the lock out so many times they should have been scraped clean by now. I have had the drivers seat out last weekend and the M535 module was clean and had no corrosion. The floor showed no signs of ever being damp. I changed out the ignition switch last weekend too.

I’d love some ideas of what to look at next

I've had a similar behaviour with the passenger door on my 996 where the spring on the external handle was sticking, and the handle would stay up even with the door successfully closed and this caused the interior light to stay on and non-normal behaviour

I think if your handle is having no effect on your matrix grid, then this would be where to investigate as it should definitely make a difference

Try having an free roaming micro-switch connected to the external handle micro-switch wires, and then closing this from inside when the door is closed - might help track down the problem

BTW I've changed two locks and one door cable on my 996s so feel your pain...

All the micro switches are free and roaming, I’m wondering if it’s a different door lock part number I need. Drivers side works just fine (although now has some slop) so I might go check what that part number is .. I guess it should be a matching pair to the passenger door but if it’s not that might be it

Just to confirm my message above, I ordered Porsche part #3B1-837-016-P, the right hand (passenger side) door latch for my 2002 996 C4 (and the same part is listed for the 996 and 986 from 1998 to 2004) and it solved all my central locking system and window drop to open problems.

Good luck,

Drivers side door latch is 8N1837015A ..

Doing is if the latch microswitch I ordered doesn't work.

Thanks OP for the post. Full of WIN

In an attempt to check functions, my remote is no longer locking the doors on my car.

I was using a screwdriver to close the latch with the door open. The window dropped but does not go back up when I cycle the door handle. With doors open, the dash lights do not come on as they did before. Only the interior lights come on. Is there a way to reset this?

Thank you very much for all who posted in this thread! I was able to fix my window not staying dropped issue with a cheap VW latch. I mated the Porsche electronics housing with the VW mechanicals and soldered the new latch rotary switch to the old red and blue wires. $12 from eBay and the fob and alarm works correctly.

Great thread. One thing not mentioned relates to the black plastic piece the door handle threaded screw slides into. My URO mechanism I just got did not have this piece. Is it correct that I should just swap it from the original to the new one I have? Looks like it should just slide out.

thx