996.2 cold start smoke
#16
Rennlist Member
I don't know if the Motorsports AOS will work on a Mk1. Most say it only is for the MkII engine. Anyway, interesting reading http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-g...s-failing.html
I have read you can make it work on a Mk1 but it takes some modification of tubing, probably an engine-out project but not sure.
#17
GHere is a video
I think it is wired it’s not smoking imidiatly but after a few seconds. In idle it can take several minutes to clear, but if I drive away imidiatly it clears after a few hundred meters.
Oil consumption is about 250ml/ 1000km
I think it is wired it’s not smoking imidiatly but after a few seconds. In idle it can take several minutes to clear, but if I drive away imidiatly it clears after a few hundred meters.
Oil consumption is about 250ml/ 1000km
#18
Rennlist Member
There is a small puff of something immediately. Could be fuel or oil or moisture, but it’s there immediately.
If the intake is oily, and you’ve changed the AOS, then something else is not working correctly.
If the intake is oily, and you’ve changed the AOS, then something else is not working correctly.
#19
Burning Brakes
#21
Mine was doing exactly the same. Everytime after sitting for a night at cold start there was a puff of smoke appearing at the left exhaust tip after some 5-6 seconds and only for some seconds. They smoke was a bit blueish.
Cannot come from oily intake as it is clean and oil-free as the AOS is disconnected from the intake and rerouted to prevent it from the diaphragm being stressed by the excessive vacuum at high rpm when the throttle body closes. So no more too oily cranck fumes in the intake.
Last engine out operation when I got a broken intake valve seat on cilinder 3 fixed the only thing that was done on bank 2 was the injectors removed, cleaned and checked. Since then no more smoking starts. Could it be the cause?
Also another culprit overwhelming your AOS with oil could be a scavenging pump loosing slowly some of its efficiency. Had this problem recently. At some point oil started to get spitted out by the AOS abundantly. Maybe worth to check?
Cannot come from oily intake as it is clean and oil-free as the AOS is disconnected from the intake and rerouted to prevent it from the diaphragm being stressed by the excessive vacuum at high rpm when the throttle body closes. So no more too oily cranck fumes in the intake.
Last engine out operation when I got a broken intake valve seat on cilinder 3 fixed the only thing that was done on bank 2 was the injectors removed, cleaned and checked. Since then no more smoking starts. Could it be the cause?
Also another culprit overwhelming your AOS with oil could be a scavenging pump loosing slowly some of its efficiency. Had this problem recently. At some point oil started to get spitted out by the AOS abundantly. Maybe worth to check?
#22
Rennlist Member
Silk, how is your AOS hooked up?
#23
AOS is disconnected from the intake an rerouted (via optional catch can) to the airbox through an opening under the filter.
No more excessive vacuum under high load circumstances when going off the throttle. The AOS keeps in its ‘open’ position. Under normal driving the airflow in the airbox creates enough underpressure to evacuate the crankcase gasses which are pushed out and filtered via the AOS.
No more excessive vacuum under high load circumstances when going off the throttle. The AOS keeps in its ‘open’ position. Under normal driving the airflow in the airbox creates enough underpressure to evacuate the crankcase gasses which are pushed out and filtered via the AOS.
#24
Originally Posted by Silk
AOS is disconnected from the intake an rerouted (via optional catch can) to the airbox through an opening under the filter.
No more excessive vacuum under high load circumstances when going off the throttle. The AOS keeps in its ‘open’ position. Under normal driving the airflow in the airbox creates enough underpressure to evacuate the crankcase gasses which are pushed out and filtered via the AOS.
No more excessive vacuum under high load circumstances when going off the throttle. The AOS keeps in its ‘open’ position. Under normal driving the airflow in the airbox creates enough underpressure to evacuate the crankcase gasses which are pushed out and filtered via the AOS.
#26
#Silk
interesting inputs you are coming with. Injectors have been in my mind
regarding the video. It’s from a day with less smoke than other days and it is hard to see the blue smoke in the video
One or more oval cylinders is also in my mind, but my overall oil consumption is not that high? Engine is with Steel Liners and I don’t know if they known to go oval?
I have tried to run 5w/40 instead of my normal 10/60 it was only short because then it overwhelmed the AOS and intake after hard driving? ( scavenger pump wear mayby??) but the startup smoke was mayby a little faster to clear up with 5/40 oil
I hope to get some more time here during the winter to work on the car.
interesting inputs you are coming with. Injectors have been in my mind
regarding the video. It’s from a day with less smoke than other days and it is hard to see the blue smoke in the video
One or more oval cylinders is also in my mind, but my overall oil consumption is not that high? Engine is with Steel Liners and I don’t know if they known to go oval?
I have tried to run 5w/40 instead of my normal 10/60 it was only short because then it overwhelmed the AOS and intake after hard driving? ( scavenger pump wear mayby??) but the startup smoke was mayby a little faster to clear up with 5/40 oil
I hope to get some more time here during the winter to work on the car.
#27
For those who have this smoking problem, do you drive the car aggressively before you park the car? If so, you can try driving it easy (higher gears less load) for the last few miles and see if that makes a difference.
#28
I always drive home nice and slow through my villages and park the car in my garage. Doesn’t matter if I stop the engine imidiatly or let if idle a while. Smoke is the same.
Also no difference if I drive auto or manuel with engine braking ( mine is a Tip tough)
Also no difference if I drive auto or manuel with engine braking ( mine is a Tip tough)
#30
10w/60 is much used en Europe and infact one of Germany’s best Porsche engine rebuilder Pomotec https://www.pomotec.de/ uses and recommends only Motul v300 Completion 15w/50 all year around