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Old 03-03-2018, 02:15 PM
  #16  
Cosmo Kramer
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Ok, thanks for the advice .I don't know much on this topic, most I have ever done is just shocks and struts with OEM parts.

I did read that the Ohlins are sprung heavier and damped less and apparently ride better then M030. I know thicker sways will lessen body roll, how do they affect the ride?
Old 03-04-2018, 12:52 AM
  #17  
Slakker
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I love GT3 sways on track and hate them on the street. When I go up the hump on my driveway, they make the front wheel come off the ground and land with an clunk. I know it is minor but it bugs the heck out of me.
Old 03-04-2018, 01:03 AM
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Vancouver996
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I’ve got h&r sways Frount and rear on mine , these are beefier than the gt3 bars , I’ve also got fully poly bushes . If your car is doing that , it’s probably a set up issue ( too much preload) or some other component is worn out . Even on rural Canadian roads and the gravel drive at our vineyard my car doesn’t do anything like that .

Last edited by Vancouver996; 03-18-2018 at 11:31 PM.
Old 03-04-2018, 02:12 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Vancouver996
I’ve got h&r sways Frount and rear on mine , these are beefier than the gt3 bars , I’ve also got fully poly bushes . If your car is doing that , it’s probably a set up issue or some other component is worn out . Even on rural Canadian roads and the gravel drive at our vineyard my car doesn’t do anything like that .
Your right, I'm sure poly bushings would fix that.

While ride height, droop, and spring rate also plays into this particular equation, the stiffer bar's job is to allow less independent travel of the wheels from one another. So a stock bar allows enough variation for the body to roll due to the uneven ground, when taken at an angle, and still keep both wheels on the ground. A GT3 bar does not in my case.

The ohlins, depending on how they are adjusted, should provide enough stiffness to remove most, if not all, of the perceptible roll. While a high quality shocks can give you added performance without sacrificing ride quality, a stiffer sway bar cannot.

As for the H&R's, their limited adjustability make it difficult to dial in a setup, especially if you are doing track dependent adjustments. You end up having to limit your options elsewhere in order to compensate for them. That's why you don't see them on competitive track cars. And if by beefier you mean heavier, then yes they are. If you'll research you will see that they aren't actually stiffer than a GT3 sway bar due to the base material having more inherent flex.
Old 03-04-2018, 11:43 AM
  #20  
Vancouver996
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I wasn't saying they would , just giving an indication that my set up is stiffer than stock and there are no worn components in it .
50CrV4 steel alloy cold formed is going to be very stiff , especially with the diameter of it, certainly stiffer than the mo30s that came on the car .

So why doesn't my car have the problem yours does ?
wouldnt that indicate that gt3 bars set up like yours are ( likely too much preload) causing the issue rather than a condemnation of all bars? He didn't indicate that these are the same bars as yours only that they are adjustable .

adjustable bars used with adjustable tarret links should allow you to dial in the bars preload eliminating this sort of problem , especially combined with the adjustability range that ohlins have ( probably the best in the market for a dual purpose car) , the OP should be able to dial all this in to his satisfaction, but hey I'm only a chartered engineer and a red seal journeyman mech so I could be way off base





Last edited by Vancouver996; 03-18-2018 at 11:32 PM.
Old 03-04-2018, 12:13 PM
  #21  
Slakker
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Originally Posted by Vancouver996


So why doesn't my car have the problem yours does ?
Maybe because it has different shocks, springs and sway bars? Or maybe you've never been over a hump like I have in my driveway?

Let's agree to quit mucking up this thread with another one of our discussions and move on.
Old 03-04-2018, 12:52 PM
  #22  
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I have the ohlins on my daily driven, year round including epic arctic winters, C4S along with the tarett gt3 Sway Bars and their end links
Also have rss dog bones
Couldn't be happier

Such a great sporty ride
Firm yet comfy
Get better the faster you go
I played with ride height and shock adjustments till I found something to my liking

I highly recommend the setup
They're magic
Old 03-04-2018, 02:14 PM
  #23  
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My only point is that most people upgrade the sways when they do the shocks as opposed to seeing what difference the shocks make and then upgrading the sways if needed. The stock sways are actually fairly decent. The biggest gain from the GT3 bars is being able to course adjust more/less understeer/oversteer on the track. You can then use the shock adjustments to fine tune the same.
Old 03-05-2018, 04:35 PM
  #24  
Cosmo Kramer
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Picked up the parts and here are some pics. The front and rear swaybars appear to be GT3 bars. Front measures 27 mm and is 5 way adjustable, rear is 21 mm and 4 way adjustable.




Old 03-05-2018, 06:18 PM
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Vancouver996
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Excellent ! Wish I’d found a deal like that ! Well done
tweaking the suspension on a 996 offers the most performance bang for the buck
Old 03-06-2018, 12:14 AM
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How much did you pay for all of that?
Old 03-06-2018, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Vancouver996
Excellent ! Wish I’d found a deal like that ! Well done
tweaking the suspension on a 996 offers the most performance bang for the buck
+996. Well said, I couldn't agree more!
Old 03-06-2018, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by lowpue
How much did you pay for all of that?
$1700 CDN or $1300 USD.
Old 03-06-2018, 01:22 AM
  #29  
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Yep. That's a heckuva deal.
Old 03-06-2018, 02:56 AM
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Wow, that is a helluva deal!.... I just bought a brand new set of Ohlin GT3 R&T for about 3K to replace my JRZ double adjustable suspension. Plus you got all the other stuff too. Good job!


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