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Careful, once you get spoiled by that big v8 flexibility nothing else will feel good enough.
Thats for sure. Car made some impressive power putting down 370whp and 380tq. Only downside is something others have noted that completed the swap, not enough gearing. Really strange how the car used to struggle to accelerate in 5th and 6th gear before...now, I can keep it in 5th taking on ramps at 30mph and just cruise to 60-70mph without even thinking about it.
I'll be taking a 600 mile road trip up to Ann Arbor this weekend so this will be the real test of reliability. So far, she hasnt given me any signs of struggle
I got so used to driving my V8s under 2k rpm (and having more than brisk accel even there) that 3k felt like straining. With stock gearing, even going to a larger OD tire in back you're going to want a 7th gear. I doubt it's worth the cost or effort to make another trans work or change out the gearing you'll just have to band-aid with tire OD and live with it.
Albins has a 3.00 ring and pinion -which is about right( stock is 3.42) .The gears are $ 2932.00 plus bearings and labor .Probably a $4,500 to 5,000 solution .I am leaning toward bigger tires .
I also remembered, Retro Sport is the Albins distributor in North America. Not an inexpensive solution, but what is for these cars! For a 'money no object' conversion: https://retro-sport.com/porsche-gear...6-ring-pinions
I got so used to driving my V8s under 2k rpm (and having more than brisk accel even there) that 3k felt like straining. With stock gearing, even going to a larger OD tire in back you're going to want a 7th gear. I doubt it's worth the cost or effort to make another trans work or change out the gearing you'll just have to band-aid with tire OD and live with it.
Theres no way a final drive conversion is worth the effort. I'll eventually move on to a bigger tire, maybe 285/35, but that won't make much off a change. The highway RPM aren't great, but its doable and she still gets 21-24mpg so it is what it is.
I've got about 400 miles on the swap at this point. My concerns for the warmer weather will be oil cooling. While the water cooling is more than sufficient, oil temps are slightly concerning. I don't know how guys run this without an oil cooler. I watched oil temps climb to 220F without the front cooler activated with 38F ambient outside and all this while moving 90mph. Once I have the oil cooler on, temps stabilize between 180-195F depending on RPM. My oil cooler gets great air flow but I'm concerned there just isn't enough surface area to manage the heat from the 6.0. I'll just have to add another cooler on the passenger side duct location.
I personally would want the oil temp up and over 212 degrees to boil out condensate. 220-240 would be right by me.. Cooling the oil does relieve the heat load on the water some, but get it up over 212 to over the milky mess.. Ken
I personally would want the oil temp up and over 212 degrees to boil out condensate. 220-240 would be right by me.. Cooling the oil does relieve the heat load on the water some, but get it up over 212 to over the milky mess.. Ken
I agree with keeping the oil to around 220 F to 240 F .
So I'm finishing my 600+ miles trip from Ann Arbor, Michigan driving along 355 north, get off on North Ave and right before the toll (on the off ramp) I feel a violent shimmy in the steering wheel followed up by a loud clunk. I stop the car and check to see what I broke. Turns out, my road trip could have ended with a trip to the ER or even worse, morgue. The bolt from the Rennline bump steer kit, the one that uses a mono ball to replace the factory tie rod ball joint, snapped in half. The tie rod fell into the wheel and I lost all steering. Lucky for me this happened at 10-15mph and not 85mph that I was doing moments earlier. This happened after driving 285 miles for the day. I got a 7 mile tow to my shop. I must have used up all my luck last night. Still dont know if the knuckle took any damage, doesnt look like the wheel suffered at all but we'll see once its all off.
So I'm finishing my 600+ miles trip from Ann Arbor, Michigan driving along 355 north, get off on North Ave and right before the toll (on the off ramp) I feel a violent shimmy in the steering wheel followed up by a loud clunk. I stop the car and check to see what I broke. Turns out, my road trip could have ended with a trip to the ER or even worse, morgue. The bolt from the Rennline bump steer kit, the one that uses a mono ball to replace the factory tie rod ball joint, snapped in half. The tie rod fell into the wheel and I lost all steering. Lucky for me this happened at 10-15mph and not 85mph that I was doing moments earlier. This happened after driving 285 miles for the day. I got a 7 mile tow to my shop. I must have used up all my luck last night. Still dont know if the knuckle took any damage, doesnt look like the wheel suffered at all but we'll see once its all off.
WOW!!! could have been catastrophic for sure Glad it wasn't! How'd the car feel/perform otherwise? From the sound of it, everything was good - until it wasn't...
WOW!!! could have been catastrophic for sure Glad it wasn't! How'd the car feel/perform otherwise? From the sound of it, everything was good - until it wasn't...
yeah, that could have been the shortest lived swapped car ever. Other than this horrific experience, the car drove flawlessly (engine wise). not a single hick up the whole trip.
03-23-2018, 08:02 AM
Glad it wasn't! How'd the car feel/perform otherwise? From the sound of it, everything was good - until it wasn't...
