jumpy chunky

Wanted to ask if anyone has had luck removing thier ims bearing while only removing the easy to get to chain tensioners.

I have a '99' carrera and can't seem to get to the right bank chain tensioner under the AC compressor. Are there any
pointers on removing that tensioner? The rear bolt on the compressor is pretty much unaccesible, not allowing me to
get AC out of the way.
Any and all pointers are welcome.

Thanks, Jumpy

Sula

Assuming your '99 is like my '04:

To get at the rear AC compressor bolt (which is actually the forward-most bolt, with respect to the car), you must first remove a temp sensor that sits in a rubber grommet on the intake manifold between cylinders 5 & 6. You then remove the grommet, which allows you to insert a socket on a long-ish extension that reaches the head of the bolt. On my '04, the correct socket for all 3 AC compressor bolts is an external Torx type - '99 may be different.

The grommet hole does not allow the extension to exactly align with the axis of the bolt, so it may be challenging to keep the socket on the bolt head while applying torque. A "wobble" type extension might help here.

It will not be easy to see what you're doing, nor to get a hand in there and operate "by feel". Some time ago I bought one of these smartphone endoscope cameras, which can be a big help with poor-access jobs like this. It also allows you to check inside your cylinders.

Once the AC compressor is out of the way and you have access to the cam chain tensioner, you'll need a 14mm hex bit (like this) to remove it.

Cosmo Kramer

I just removed the ac compressor few weeks ago. I used a 1/4" drive socket with a universal and a long extension. Then I put a cheater on it to crack it loose. It's bugger to get at, not looking forward to putting it back in. To take out my tensioner I grabbed a 9/16 coupling nut and it was a perfect fit in the tensioner head.

rockhouse66

Once I got this figured out, it became relatively easy. At least on my '04. Remove the throttle body. Remove the temp sensor and grommet as suggested. Place a flashlight horizontally on the passenger side cylinder head, towards the front, aimed towards the compressor to illuminate the area. You will then be able to reach in and actually see what you are doing. A mirror might help too. Took me all day to remove the compressor on mine, about 15 minutes to reinstall it. All before I understood that on the later engines, you don't need to access that tensioner!

jumpy chunky

Thanks you guys for all the feed back.
I like the walmart boroscope, may stop by there tomorrow.
Seems all my '99' fasteneres are different than the '04' versions. Not that that is the problem.
This fastener is a tough one as I only have a flashlight and a mirror. Difficult to hold everything and
manuver the 13mm socket onto the cap screw. Kinda like cutting your hair while standing in front of the mirror.

I'm thinking the quater inch drive might give a little more room to wiggle the socket into place. The socket keeps
falling off the darn bolt, it is at such an angle. Even using a universal.
I'm guessing that I should try to remove the tensioner on this year 996. I would hate to have to re-time the valve train.
Last resort I will remove throttle body, might be the best option.

Thanks again...

cds72911

charlieaf92

Sula

But the IMS Solution instructions call for it to be removed.

01slvr911

I just did an IMS install this weekend, On the 5-chain motors I don't believe it's necessary to pull all 3 tensioners, I locked bank 1 (driver side) pulled that tensioner and the one for the IMS, had no problem pulling my dual row bearing.

Kris Murphy

That AC bolt is a pain. It was the single longest step that I had when pulling my motor to swap in a new one.

I took a pick of how I got it out, it's in my thread here: https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...l#post13853981

Ahsai

I believe this is correct.

Yes, the trick is to remove the throttle body and the T plenum first then your left hand can get behind the a/c compressor easily. The T plenum needs some fiddling to reinstall but it will be worth it.

charlieaf92

You're right, it does. I can only speak to my personal experience. I spoke with an M96 expert and was told it wasn't necessary - the success of my install confirmed that. I don't however know 3 or 5 chain models would make a difference. Better to be safe than sorry. You could always call LN and ask them.

Ahsai

With a 5-chain, you are most likely ok leaving the bank 2 tensioner in place. The 3-chain engine is easier to skip timing relative to the 5-chain. Timing should be verified after the IMSB retrofit regardless.

Slakker

Or just disconnect the AC lines. Ideally you capture the discharge but if you don't, it is the equivalent to burning about 150 gallons of gas. So not catastrophic but not something you'd want to do everyday. There may be legal ramifications for not capturing it that I'm not aware as well.

steve578