General maintenance cost question
#16
Drifting
A Volkswagen GTI is a sporty, fun car that is economical and can handle regular day to day commuter duty, grocery getting, family hauling, as well as autocross and track time. And they don’t cost a fortune to run and maintain.
#17
Rennlist Member
You may squeeze into a 370Z without a helmet. You'll probably have to test it yourself because I did a quick google and there are 6' 4" guys saying they both do and don't fit well. Probably gets down to your exact torso/legs proportions.
#18
Rennlist Member
I’m going to disagree with most here and say that “you could get lucky” if you find the right car.
My 88 911 only cost me about $4k over 2 years, including a clutch that broke on the racetrack. It probably wouldn’t have failed if I didn’t track it.
My 2000 Boxster S only had about $2k in cost over 2 years. I had a failed fuel pump and a failed door switch.
My current 996, over the last 12 months and 7,000 miles suffered from a hood latch failure and a rear window regulator failure. I replaced both myself for $600 Total.
You can save a boatload of money in buying the most pristine car you can find. My 88 has a top end engine rebuild before me. The boxster S had 28,000 miles on it and was like new. My 99 996 has 48,000 miles and was like new. I didn’t do any preventative maintenance on the car other than fluids because it just didn’t need it.
So yeah, you can get lucky and get away with $1-$2k per year on aeverage if you buy smart, get lucky, and do some work yourself. These cars are pretty reliable, and they will Hold their value. But always be prepared for a large expense to hit every now and again. New convertible tops, clutches, or other major work can cost a pretty penny, so shop around and make sure you find a car that won’t nickel and dime you on all the other items.
My 88 911 only cost me about $4k over 2 years, including a clutch that broke on the racetrack. It probably wouldn’t have failed if I didn’t track it.
My 2000 Boxster S only had about $2k in cost over 2 years. I had a failed fuel pump and a failed door switch.
My current 996, over the last 12 months and 7,000 miles suffered from a hood latch failure and a rear window regulator failure. I replaced both myself for $600 Total.
You can save a boatload of money in buying the most pristine car you can find. My 88 has a top end engine rebuild before me. The boxster S had 28,000 miles on it and was like new. My 99 996 has 48,000 miles and was like new. I didn’t do any preventative maintenance on the car other than fluids because it just didn’t need it.
So yeah, you can get lucky and get away with $1-$2k per year on aeverage if you buy smart, get lucky, and do some work yourself. These cars are pretty reliable, and they will Hold their value. But always be prepared for a large expense to hit every now and again. New convertible tops, clutches, or other major work can cost a pretty penny, so shop around and make sure you find a car that won’t nickel and dime you on all the other items.
#19
I say buy American if you want lower maintenance costs and bang for your buck. A C6 corvette would be a good choice. Or how about a V8 mustang or camaro? Hard to beat American muscle for overall value. My Camaro SS is pretty awesome, and a totally different experience from an older German car. Or if you want German, go with a GTI.
I spent over $20k in a year fixing up my 996. Don’t buy one if you want to avoid high maintenance costs.
I spent over $20k in a year fixing up my 996. Don’t buy one if you want to avoid high maintenance costs.
#20
Rennlist Member
Out of curiosity, how old are you?
Go down to CarMax and test drive all the cars in your price range. Porsche is not for you (yet) based on your financial situation.
Go down to CarMax and test drive all the cars in your price range. Porsche is not for you (yet) based on your financial situation.
#21
Been here since breakfast, what have i learned? take normal car cost and double it b/c hey...its a Porsche then double that again. Example? brakes, $300 so $600 but reality is 1,200. tires...$500 so 1000 but reality is 2k. and thats all at indy shops. So far i'm in love and expected/budgeted for it. The porsche tax. But, i did manage to buy $30 windshield wipers at Fred Myer!!!! Probably the cheapest thing I will ever buy for it!!!! I think the per year cost will depend on how many miles you put on it, you have 3 other cars and you put 3k on it, well...you see what i'm saying. Problem is I want to drive this thing everyday, i now get how this could be a daily and why mine has such high miles.
I would say go Japanese... Lexus, Z is a grt choice... Miatas are for ****bois, sorry. I think anything performance ie: AMG, M class or forced induction and high HP will cost you, no way around it. Last thing I want to sound like is elitist but after owning a few bmw and MB, you have to pay to play. Might even look at newer mustangs? Lots of grt choices out there around 20k. Maybe even a c63 or e63 but then you're back at the might as well buy a porsche.... good luck, shopping for a "new" car is fun!
I would say go Japanese... Lexus, Z is a grt choice... Miatas are for ****bois, sorry. I think anything performance ie: AMG, M class or forced induction and high HP will cost you, no way around it. Last thing I want to sound like is elitist but after owning a few bmw and MB, you have to pay to play. Might even look at newer mustangs? Lots of grt choices out there around 20k. Maybe even a c63 or e63 but then you're back at the might as well buy a porsche.... good luck, shopping for a "new" car is fun!
#23
Rennlist Member
Been here since breakfast, what have i learned? take normal car cost and double it b/c hey...its a Porsche then double that again. Example? brakes, $300 so $600 but reality is 1,200. tires...$500 so 1000 but reality is 2k. and thats all at indy shops. So far i'm in love and expected/budgeted for it. The porsche tax. But, i did manage to buy $30 windshield wipers at Fred Myer!!!! Probably the cheapest thing I will ever buy for it!!!! I think the per year cost will depend on how many miles you put on it, you have 3 other cars and you put 3k on it, well...you see what i'm saying. Problem is I want to drive this thing everyday, i now get how this could be a daily and why mine has such high miles.
I would say go Japanese... Lexus, Z is a grt choice... Miatas are for ****bois, sorry. I think anything performance ie: AMG, M class or forced induction and high HP will cost you, no way around it. Last thing I want to sound like is elitist but after owning a few bmw and MB, you have to pay to play. Might even look at newer mustangs? Lots of grt choices out there around 20k. Maybe even a c63 or e63 but then you're back at the might as well buy a porsche.... good luck, shopping for a "new" car is fun!
I would say go Japanese... Lexus, Z is a grt choice... Miatas are for ****bois, sorry. I think anything performance ie: AMG, M class or forced induction and high HP will cost you, no way around it. Last thing I want to sound like is elitist but after owning a few bmw and MB, you have to pay to play. Might even look at newer mustangs? Lots of grt choices out there around 20k. Maybe even a c63 or e63 but then you're back at the might as well buy a porsche.... good luck, shopping for a "new" car is fun!
#24
$900 for all 4 mounted and balanced?
I was just under 2k for the same setup in all 4 corners
would be about $1300 for 4 mich pss mounted and balanced. ..or about $1600 CDN for me.
I was just under 2k for the same setup in all 4 corners
would be about $1300 for 4 mich pss mounted and balanced. ..or about $1600 CDN for me.
#25
Three Wheelin'
In your price range 10 - 20 k I think you could get a nice BMW 3 series coupe. I currently own a 2011 3 series BMW, I've had the car for 4 years, I can't seem to let it go so it must be doing something right. The M3s are a bit out of your price range for a nice one, but you could pick up a very nice 328 or 335 in your price range. There are SO MANY of them out there.
#26
Rennlist Member
Look 'em up on Tire Rack. Right around $800 for 18" staggered set-up (225 40 18 front, 265 35 18 rear). They shipped them to a local shop who mounted and balanced them for me for around $100 - did a great job.
#28
Rennlist Member
^^ Ahhhh... bigger tire sizes! Still not $2k though
#29
Rennlist Member
I also paid about $1100 for my tires - installed, balanced, etc.
Also, the folks that are suggesting a BMW would be cheaper than a Porsche - I would like to point out that my M5 cost twice as much to maintain as my Boxster S did. So, the model is what can drive the cost up or down. A base BMW will be far cheaper to maintain than an M car, but any German car can end up costing thousands per year if you are not careful. My sister has a 135i. A lovely car, and one I really strongly considered. But that car suffered from some expensive oil cooler cracking issues and some persistent brake squeal and ended up costing my sister several thousands to maintain - more than my Boxster...
If folks really want to save money on a performance car, pick a Japanese car. Miata are one of the best, the Toyota 86/BRZ is one, and there are others.
However, a good original Boxster S with a double row IMSB is likely to not have many issues if you find one that’s in excellent shape. I’m not a big fan of buying one that has had lots of work done either. Cars that have tens of thousands of receipts on them, even if those items were so-called “preventative,” might not have been preventative and could point to a car that’s been problematic. I like cars that have a 15-20-yr track record of nothing breaking down. That’s a good track record that might just continue on, if the car was treated well (garage kept, no salt or snow, cleaned, fluids, driven properly, etc.)
Also, the folks that are suggesting a BMW would be cheaper than a Porsche - I would like to point out that my M5 cost twice as much to maintain as my Boxster S did. So, the model is what can drive the cost up or down. A base BMW will be far cheaper to maintain than an M car, but any German car can end up costing thousands per year if you are not careful. My sister has a 135i. A lovely car, and one I really strongly considered. But that car suffered from some expensive oil cooler cracking issues and some persistent brake squeal and ended up costing my sister several thousands to maintain - more than my Boxster...
If folks really want to save money on a performance car, pick a Japanese car. Miata are one of the best, the Toyota 86/BRZ is one, and there are others.
However, a good original Boxster S with a double row IMSB is likely to not have many issues if you find one that’s in excellent shape. I’m not a big fan of buying one that has had lots of work done either. Cars that have tens of thousands of receipts on them, even if those items were so-called “preventative,” might not have been preventative and could point to a car that’s been problematic. I like cars that have a 15-20-yr track record of nothing breaking down. That’s a good track record that might just continue on, if the car was treated well (garage kept, no salt or snow, cleaned, fluids, driven properly, etc.)