Flat6 Innovations

With an engine so new, that would be the worst thing that could be done.. Have that car shipped.

The "experience" of doing this may be great for you, but its punishment for the engine.

az968gpw

Thank you, that good to know. I want to break it in properly I'll ship it. I'm so excited! Thanks.

Coopduc

AnthonyGS

Blue Chip

Not sure why - but I tend to believe Flat6 about the break in. I repowered my offshore boat last year with 2 new Yamaha 4 strokes - they are pretty specific about the break in procedure and the amount of time at differing RPM requirements.

AnthonyGS

That's normally how a camshaft break in procedure is written. After looking yesterday the M96 is a slider cam and it has some very interesting looking lash adjusters / lifters. They are definitely not hardened rollers as I was hoping to see, but there is some sort of harder semi moveable part in the center of the hydraulic lifter to contact the cam lobe. It will be interesting if some more information is provided.

az968gpw

I'm just going to do what the engine rebuilder tells me to do, I suspect he knows of what he speaks. He wrote the book on rebuilds and mods and it's his engine work.

After I find out what the break-in process is I will post it along with any rationale he shares.

I want this engine to last a looooong time :-)

808Bill

Mt coupe would have commanded a higher price in my opinion. Also, convertibles sell for less during the winter months.

Coopduc

Flat6 Innovations

It would not pertain to those other builds. Unless the same cylinder roughness average, piston rings, and clearances were used, anything that we'd state would be inaccurate.

ONLY follow what YOUR specific builder has to say concerning the proper way to drive following engine rebuild. Nothing that anyone else says will matter, and could actually cause a problem that you'd otherwise not encounter.

Due to the fact that someone could follow our directives for an engine that we did not build, and have an issue, we'll refrain from posting specifics that could damage someone's engine. Again, ONLY believe YOUR builder- he knows best.

Our recommendations for break- in, and everything else comes from first hand experience, shipping these engines all over the planet, and receiving feedback, as well as data, and used oil analysis from them. Thats why the things we do, and say, only pertain to what we've built here.

No, just because you have LN Engineering Nickies you won;t have, what we have. Our roughness averages, ring profiles, and pistons are not available any other way.

Coopduc

Flat6 Innovations

The specific break- in instructions will be uploaded onto your owner's manual USB key of data, when you purchase the engine. The break- in will vary based on piston options, and the intended use of the engine, as well as the time of year the vehicle will be broken in. How soon you want to go to the track for the first time is also one of Mr. Raby's considerations when he creates this document. These break- in directives are created per engine order, and are not general, blanket statements. These also coincide with the engine oil that the vehicle is shipped home with, as this also varies per engine.

Some owners purchase Mr. Raby's "Break- in Service" as an option, and those engines will have a completely different initial service period, as they are shipped home already at their "intermediate" level, having more drive cycles, and miles completed by Mr. Raby, before the vehicle ships.

az968gpw

Just thought I post an update on my car.

It finally arrived here Sunday, I had it shipped in an enclosed trailer which took a while to arrange. It was stored next to a brand new GT3 so it was in good company during its travels. I couldn't convince the hauler that the GT3 was my car, not the '04.

Gave it a quick exterior wash and started working on the interior detailing. It will need some TLC on the interior, a number of small mars that need touch-up. Exterior is very good, except front and rear bumper covers that need respray. The rear bumper cover was impacted and that damaged the paint and the bumper slightly. Front bumper has stone chips, etc. While the front bumper cover is off I'll install a Renntech "radiator grill" - couldn't believe all the crap that was accumulated around the radiators. That will all happen over the next couple of weeks. Did the top with RaggTop so it looks good. New wiper blades.

Monday I drove it over to my local service shop. Drove it carefully since I wasn't sure of the condition of all the mechanicals, like brakes. But the engine sounded so sweet! The shop owner attended Mr. Raby's engine class a couple of years ago, so it will be in good hands here. Oil change, brake fluid change, new coolant tank and coolant. A/C service. New battery (the Porsche-branded battery was only 2 yrs old but failed testing - those batteries are crap.). Had to order one new tire that will go on Thursday, the others look like they have a couple of years left on them. Will need need rotors and pads sometime this year. An undercar inspection indicates that all is good, all the panels are in place and no signs of scraping. Rubber bits all look good, brake lines look good, etc.

Thursday I can really start to enjoy it! Hopefully it won't snow the rest of the week so I can get a mountain run in! The car and I both need that!

Couple of nice surprises that weren't part of the listing: the PO had installed an Evolution Motorsports Evoms V-Flow air intake system. He also had purchased, but not installed, a Porsche Euro Sport Suspension kit (ROW M030), that is being shipped to me now, new in the box! A case of Joe Gibbs oil is also coming. The original set of Carrera 18" wheels was also shipped in the car, one was bad, thus the after-market wheels. Don't know what I'll do with the three good ones, that decision can wait. Same with deciding whether to repair the original drivers seat. For now, the Recaro seat will do just fine!

I'll be combing through the car over the next couple of weeks and I'm sure I'll have some questions to post. But, so far it's looking good!

Slakker

Which wheels and which one is bad? I happen to have a spare rear MY02 in my attic.

Congrats on getting the car. It sounds amazing!

az968gpw

Thanks, I can't wait to get it out in its natural habitat! Twisty mountain roads!
The original wheels were the 18: Carrera 5-spoke wheels
Option code 411. The bad wheel is a rear wheel, it was cracked, looks like hit something hard, maybe over a curb at speed.