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I think using a porsche font would make this look so much better or even the whole thing either green or black. I think a vinyl decal would probably be easiest.
i was wanting something not to flashy but enough to show the rims go with the car, like the pic attached
Originally Posted by bull3t
I think using a porsche font would make this look so much better or even the whole thing either green or black. I think a vinyl decal would probably be easiest.
Nice work - all around. I've decided I won't kick your *** when I see you at the track...
Really like the last couple of posts with the black wheels. I'd leave them the way they are - they look great!
Maybe I can try to bribe you with your favorite beverage for pointers. You've got paint and body skills I can only dream of. My skills are more mechanical and in driving. Cosmetics generally are an afterthought.
Nice work - all around. I've decided I won't kick your *** when I see you at the track...
Really like the last couple of posts with the black wheels. I'd leave them the way they are - they look great!
Maybe I can try to bribe you with your favorite beverage for pointers. You've got paint and body skills I can only dream of. My skills are more mechanical and in driving. Cosmetics generally are an afterthought.
thank you ...greatly appreciated. I can’t talk guff on the forums about not needing lessons to drive fast and get whoopped by someone who has had them lol
best of all you have a fun gear head mentality. I love these forums for kicking back enjoying the car talk.
so its settled... i just finished wet sanding and clear coating the first rim... all black it is.
Originally Posted by TexSquirrel
YES!
.
NO!
lol i just dont trust my skills. Its crazy hard to paint rims without creating runs... for me anyway.
+1 on TexSquirrel...but leaving them black is OK to....To date, your thread has been my favorite....and there have been a lot of good ones (and some bad ones)...as I and others have said...ttt123, you are a god
+1 on TexSquirrel...but leaving them black is OK to....To date, your thread has been my favorite....and there have been a lot of good ones (and some bad ones)...as I and others have said...ttt123, you are a god
wow thank you sir. This build was a lot of fun. I surprised my self doing it in 5 months for the main portion. I wish i could do this stuff for a living... i love tinkering with cars. Even if the green new deal goes through and we are all forced to drive peddle bikes to our vegan farms for work to help reduce the amount of farting cows in the world .... mine will be unique with widebody and turbo
Saturday morning edition update please help I have all of the bolts out of the transmission and the crossmember if that’s what it’s called disconnected as well everything that I can see disconnected from the transmission and I can’t get the transmission to pull apart from the motor when lowering it with a jack I have never dropped a manual transmission only 700r4’s ... sorry for my Chevy guy here any advice so I don’t break something ?
Triple check that you have all of the bolts out. If you do, and assuming the front mount is off, all that is holding it is the transmission input shaft and friction in the clutch disk splines. You just need to maneuver it forward, toward the front of the car to disengage the shaft from the disk.
Please make sure the forward part of your engine is supported. The whole transmission/engine assembly is only held up by two motor mounts at the rear and the transmission mount at the front. If the engine isn’t supported when you try to remove the transmission, all that weight is on the input shaft and the engine could drop dangerously, likely causing damage or injury.
There is a factory tool, but you can weld one up easily or support it with a support stand. I fabbed an engine support bar up, it’s very straightforward.
Triple check that you have all of the bolts out. If you do, and assuming the front mount is off, all that is holding it is the transmission input shaft and friction in the clutch disk splines. You just need to maneuver it forward, toward the front of the car to disengage the shaft from the disk.
Please make sure the forward part of your engine is supported. The whole transmission/engine assembly is only held up by two motor mounts at the rear and the transmission mount at the front. If the engine isn’t supported when you try to remove the transmission, all that weight is on the input shaft and the engine could drop dangerously, likely causing damage or injury.
There is a factory tool, but you can weld one up easily or support it with a support stand. I fabbed an engine support bar up, it’s very straightforward.
I heard the email notification come in for your post as I was under the car and found one more bolt at the very top so eight bolts total. quick question when I release that bolt and separate the transmission from the motor will it tip forward or reward toward the back of the car so I know which side to support it. big thank you for that tip I did not know that.
I an very carefule when under cars... huge fear laying under vehicles so i have four jacks under there with me
One more quick question. where would be a good spot to have the jack under the transmission? I know on a 700r4 it’s about a third way back from the bell housing to keep it from tipping rearward or forward when lowering it what about this manual transmission?
02-15-2019, 01:15 PM
