Blue Chip's Build Thread - FSI Edition
12-04-2017, 04:06 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Blue Chip's Build Thread - FSI Edition
So Blue Chip was the winner of my FSI fire sale. I needed to pay for the 996TT I bought which meant it was time to fess up to my wife. I knew having the FSI sold would make a big difference so I laid down the deal and he jumped on it. As part of it, as some may remember, I offered to also do (almost) any upgrades for free labor. There are lots of ideas being tossed around so we will see what he comes up with. In the meantime, I’ve got plenty to work on prepping for his car’s arrival.
First off is to drop the FSI 3.8L. I do a few things different than the book says so I'll detail those as I go. First step is to drain the brake fluid. This was an easy decision because it was due to change anyways, but if it wasn’t, I would only drain the clutch bleeder then reuse the fluid.
Wait, did you say reuse the fluid? Absolutely. Thy talk about throwing away a bottle of brake fluid a month after you open it but do you have to do the same thing after opening the reservoir? No, because it’s an old wives tale. I bled the system dry in my race car 5 or 6 times last year for different projects. There was no way i was going to buy $100 of Castrol SRF every time. So I reused it and had 0 fade issues in 30 track days.
Bleeding the brakes with my motive bleeder and genesis catch bottles(Amazon).
And now the important part, bleeding the clutch all the way dry:
First off is to drop the FSI 3.8L. I do a few things different than the book says so I'll detail those as I go. First step is to drain the brake fluid. This was an easy decision because it was due to change anyways, but if it wasn’t, I would only drain the clutch bleeder then reuse the fluid.
Wait, did you say reuse the fluid? Absolutely. Thy talk about throwing away a bottle of brake fluid a month after you open it but do you have to do the same thing after opening the reservoir? No, because it’s an old wives tale. I bled the system dry in my race car 5 or 6 times last year for different projects. There was no way i was going to buy $100 of Castrol SRF every time. So I reused it and had 0 fade issues in 30 track days.
Bleeding the brakes with my motive bleeder and genesis catch bottles(Amazon).
And now the important part, bleeding the clutch all the way dry:
Last edited by Slakker; 12-04-2017 at 05:45 PM.
12-05-2017, 08:44 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
So there I was - minding my own business.....
And one day, Blue Chip woke up and looked at his perfectly running 996 track car and thought to himself - "Self, there really isn't anything that I want to do to this car today." So he went to the office and read the forums and came across his pal Slakkers thread about selling his car - and then saw the part about "trades considered."
Then, after a few conversations, Blue was preparing his car to be shipped to OK for a new motor that will make him smile.
The end.
And one day, Blue Chip woke up and looked at his perfectly running 996 track car and thought to himself - "Self, there really isn't anything that I want to do to this car today." So he went to the office and read the forums and came across his pal Slakkers thread about selling his car - and then saw the part about "trades considered."
Then, after a few conversations, Blue was preparing his car to be shipped to OK for a new motor that will make him smile.
The end.
12-05-2017, 10:30 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Sounds like true love...
12-05-2017, 10:36 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
Sounds like true love...
12-05-2017, 11:52 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Sweet!
Got a little more prep work done today. Removed the cross braces. Unhooked the shift cables, reverse light and axles from transmission. Also unscrewed the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder. I’ve read about too many issues trying to remove/install the slave cylinder with the transmission in the car. It is much easier to pull it after you get the tranny out and reinstall before it goes back in. The key is you just need to bleed all the fluid from the clutch line and the whole thing is drama free.
Cross braces that need to be removed. Make sure you aren’t blocking the bolts by the rear jackpoints when you lift the car.
Zip ties cut and shift cables unhooked. Kind of a funny story. The guy I sold my race car to asked me what part he needed to get to fix the shift cables being zip tied. I told him that was standard practice and nothing was needed. I could tell he thought I was absolutely lying to him. But sure enough, that’s how they came from FSI as well.
Slave cylinder line detached.
Headed to Dallas at 4:30 AM but will be back to finish dropping the engine this weekend.
Got a little more prep work done today. Removed the cross braces. Unhooked the shift cables, reverse light and axles from transmission. Also unscrewed the hydraulic line from the slave cylinder. I’ve read about too many issues trying to remove/install the slave cylinder with the transmission in the car. It is much easier to pull it after you get the tranny out and reinstall before it goes back in. The key is you just need to bleed all the fluid from the clutch line and the whole thing is drama free.
Cross braces that need to be removed. Make sure you aren’t blocking the bolts by the rear jackpoints when you lift the car.
Zip ties cut and shift cables unhooked. Kind of a funny story. The guy I sold my race car to asked me what part he needed to get to fix the shift cables being zip tied. I told him that was standard practice and nothing was needed. I could tell he thought I was absolutely lying to him. But sure enough, that’s how they came from FSI as well.
Slave cylinder line detached.
Headed to Dallas at 4:30 AM but will be back to finish dropping the engine this weekend.
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12-09-2017, 12:04 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
It looks like it could be potentially problematic if the car has to pass over a bump or debris in the road... I'd be tucking that up over that coolant line. I was able to get mine way up in there right next to the crank-case but without any contact/rubbing.
12-09-2017, 01:44 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
^Nope^... Way lower than the oil filter. That coolant hose hangs lower than the oil filter and the oil line from the filter adapter (braided stainless) is below that. If you'd ever done one of these, it'd be pretty obvious what Ahsai was pointing out
12-09-2017, 01:55 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Good catch guys. I will reroute that on Blue Chip's.
A view of the engine with Airbox and SAI removes.
A view of the engine with Airbox and SAI removes.
12-09-2017, 03:05 PM
#15
Rennlist Member
"Good catch guys. I will reroute that on Blue Chip's."
